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mustclimb69
Jan 13, 2003, 6:49 AM
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When starting to trad climb I heard you should mix up a sport route and place pro in between bolts. Wondering other reccommended ways or opinions.
Lastly if there is no chains at the top wouldn't you loose some equipment? Which way is the safest and cheepest to come down?
do you have to down climb? (not a multi-pitch route)
Cheers
MustClimb
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mustclimb69
Jan 13, 2003, 7:11 AM
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This is a serious question I have been sport climbing for a while and have searched theweb and cannot find the answer.
Please help...
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russman
Jan 13, 2003, 7:20 AM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Trad Climbing forum by russman[/small]
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interruptor
Jan 13, 2003, 7:32 AM
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I'm curious about it too...
a similar question has been posted before, and the answer was "Webbingg" "allways take lots of webbing".
so? how do you tie the webbing?
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leon0tron
Jan 13, 2003, 7:40 AM
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You will have a climber that will second you and take your gear out most of the time.
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mustclimb69
Jan 13, 2003, 7:50 AM
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Regards on how to tie webbing search water knot.
With regards to second cleaning. how do you get DOWN?? do you always have to down climb.
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mustclimb69
Jan 13, 2003, 7:51 AM
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What do you tie the webbing to ? do you need a biner or rap ring?
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orangekyak
Jan 13, 2003, 8:11 AM
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this is a death thread right now.
do not lead on trad if you have to ask how to tie webbing or how to get down. there are many skills you need to learn from somebody experienced. find a trad mentor or guide service. take a class.
I am not trying to discourage you from climbing, but you risk death if you go out there without the proper knowledge. this site is a good source for info, but you might be better served using if for partner searching.
o.k.
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mustclimb69
Jan 13, 2003, 8:18 AM
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Orangekayk? I have climbed top rope, sport and bouldered for years I have taken lessons the last three years but never in trad. I DO know how to tie webbing. My question was is there any way to get down without loosing pro. My Trad mentors always downclimb, webbing will be used but ties to WHAT???
Cheers
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krillen
Jan 13, 2003, 8:18 AM
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Learing Trad is a serious deal. 1st make sure you are with a knowledageble instructor, Trad is a life and death undertaking. Take is seriously. 2nd, trad placing gear as you top rope (I.e. lead while on top rope). 3rd take a LOT of time, and care learning.
My personal advice? Take a course.
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burz
Jan 13, 2003, 8:35 AM
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There are not many areas for trad climbing in Texas, but most trad routes here have anchors at the top of each pitch to rappell off of. Others require scrambling down a different route instead of rapelling. If there are no anchors then you must set your own anchor for rappell. The cheapest way to do this is to sling a rock formation or tree with webbing. If it is a common climb then you will see webbing that has been left behind by other climbers. In this case remove the oldest piece and replace it with a new piece of webbing. Most of the time there will be several pieces of webbing tied to the same formation. Hexes can also be left behind if necessary because they are fairly cheap to replace. I personally would not climb a route if I had to leave behind a cam or something like that. Ask for Beta if you are not sure about what it takes to descend a certain climb.
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ljthawk
Jan 13, 2003, 8:42 AM
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Find someone you can second. Second a bunch of climbs and you will learn what you need to know.
L.J.
www.seclimbers.org
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mustclimb69
Jan 13, 2003, 10:40 AM
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Thank you BURZ all I wanted to do was confirm my origional thoughts.
Pappy doesnt sound so happy, maybe he fell and that made him sappy, or maybe he isjust tacky. What ever the cast RELAX... The main purpose of this forum is to gain knowledge and avoid wasting time looking in the wrong places. It is obious that no one should read any thing and go out atempting 5.12d trad route. Holy Sh*T, some people seem to think the purpose of posting on RC.com is to see who can give the most attitude or insult felow climbers. My advice to those people is get your head out of the gutter. Climbing regadless of how much you like it or how good you are shouldnt be reason to make others feel stupid for asking questions you once didn't knowthe answer to. If you want to think that by discuraging others to climb make you a better person or makes the crag less crowded..get over it. In life it comes down to who you know not what you know. After all the more climbers you know the more chances you will have to climb.
Cheers
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mustclimb69
Jan 13, 2003, 10:56 AM
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It is a small cliff by my house and it's a long walk down. They always downclimb and clean there own route I guess to save pro and time. No worrys.
[ This Message was edited by: mustclimb69 on 2003-01-13 10:58 ]
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vegastradguy
Jan 13, 2003, 11:05 AM
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wow, i'm suprised they havent set up a rap station somewhere on the cliff near the climbs. but, at least they are getting down climbing practice.
usually there is just a walk off (some longer than others) and other times there are rappels.
my first trad lead was a climb that had (too many) bolts and bolted anchors. it was nice for security (since I hadnt led trad before) but also probably way too hard for a beginning trad lead (5.8-5.9). but, i learned quite a bit, and the rappel down was rather epic.
i also second the motion to make sure to have a mentor teach you everything you need to know about trad. that's how i did (and still do) it, my climbing partner has 12 years of trad experience. it's definitely the best (and safest) way to go!
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ascentadventure
Jun 15, 2009, 1:26 PM
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I think the best way to learn is to do a mock trad lead. That means you are on top rope, but with a decent amount of slack in the line so that if you fall, you fall onto your gear, but are backed up by the top rope for safety. Takes extra set up time, but worth it for learning. Here's some info on trad climbing classes you can take: Trad Climbing Classes
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petsfed
Jun 15, 2009, 1:50 PM
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ascentadventure wrote: I think the best way to learn is to do a mock trad lead. That means you are on top rope, but with a decent amount of slack in the line so that if you fall, you fall onto your gear, but are backed up by the top rope for safety. Takes extra set up time, but worth it for learning.
I disagree. All mock leading will teach you that seconding (or simply leading) can't teach you in a safe manner is the process of actually clipping the gear to the rope. On the average pitch, you'll clip 8-20 pieces, so by the end of that pitch, you should have it dialed. Anyone who needs more than that really shouldn't be leading at all.
Otherwise, there is no benefit from mock leading. It does not prepare you for the mental part of being on the sharp end, it doesn't teach you about placing gear anymore than simply placing gear on toprope will, and, as you said, requires a more complicated set up.
Mock leading is a fantastic way to impede your movement into leading, and there's really no better way to convince yourself that you aren't ready (even if you really are) than to mock lead something into submission, just to find out on the actual lead that it can be scary.
Your time is better served seconding more, looking for clipping stances while seconding, and really getting your gear placing skills dialed.
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kriso9tails
Jun 16, 2009, 12:46 AM
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Plugging your company is cool and all, but you should probably consider your target audience a little closer. Even if this thread wasn't six years old and the poster hadn't last visited this site about a year ago, Peel region is, I'm estimating, about bout fifteen hours away from NC by car. There are local outfits right were he lives (lived?).
Still, I clicked you link so that's a bit of site traffic for you!
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healyje
Jun 16, 2009, 1:38 AM
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Well, so far this is one of the scariest threads I've seen on RC...
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desertwanderer81
Jun 16, 2009, 3:34 PM
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[quote "ljthawk"]Find someone you can second. Second a bunch of climbs and you will learn what you need to know.
L.J.
www.seclimbers.org[/quote]
I second this seconding suggestion!
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desertwanderer81
Jun 16, 2009, 3:38 PM
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[quote "vegastradguy"]wow, i'm suprised they havent set up a rap station somewhere on the cliff near the climbs. but, at least they are getting down climbing practice.
usually there is just a walk off (some longer than others) and other times there are rappels.
my first trad lead was a climb that had (too many) bolts and bolted anchors. it was nice for security (since I hadnt led trad before) but also probably way too hard for a beginning trad lead (5.8-5.9). but, i learned quite a bit, and the rappel down was rather epic.
i also second the motion to make sure to have a mentor teach you everything you need to know about trad. that's how i did (and still do) it, my climbing partner has 12 years of trad experience. it's definitely the best (and safest) way to go![/quote]
Did this first lead start with a "crinsom" ?
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vegastradguy
Jun 16, 2009, 3:46 PM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: Did this first lead start with a "crinsom" ?
actually, it started with a crimson...
i was looking at that quote and wondering when the hell i posted that, then i looked at the date!
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desertwanderer81
Jun 16, 2009, 3:51 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: desertwanderer81 wrote: Did this first lead start with a "crinsom" ? actually, it started with a crimson... i was looking at that quote and wondering when the hell i posted that, then i looked at the date!
Heh, yeah yeah.... I had a feeling though when you described "excessive bolts on an 5.8" which climb it was.
And at least I didn't resurrect the thread this time!
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yay_chris
Jun 17, 2009, 10:33 PM
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Ask an expert to personally show you the fundamentals of climbing.
Read "Freedom of the Hills" too.
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