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zekeo


Jul 28, 2013, 12:01 PM
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Quick question
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When a guidebook says pro to 3", do you ever bring a #4 C4? My #3 when 50% retracted is about 2.5".


acorneau


Jul 28, 2013, 1:45 PM
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zekeo wrote:
When a guidebook says pro to 3", do you ever bring a #4 C4? My #3 when 50% retracted is about 2.5".

No, because I don't carry BD cams. Tongue

3" is about two-thirds open for a #3 C4, or one-quarter open for a #4; both just fine for each cam's range.

If the climb eats up big gear and you only have single pieces in those sizes then I would say it's probably prudent to take the #4.


scotchie


Jul 28, 2013, 1:46 PM
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In this situation I have more than once wished that I had in fact brought a #4 when I see a perfect placement for it. I'd say that as a general rule, guidebooks are not intended to be an exact list of specific pieces to take, but a guideline based on what pieces the author placed.


rocknice2


Jul 28, 2013, 3:53 PM
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Bring a #4. See this thread for usable cam range.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread


zekeo


Jul 30, 2013, 9:40 AM
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Thanks all!


distantThunder


Aug 1, 2013, 7:37 AM
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thoughts from an old climber ... who has suffered the indignities of many years of trad climbing. Hahaha!

Never trust a guide book.

Or at least - never trust them totally. I would reason that if a crack could be 3-inches wide, it might certainly open a bit wider in places. I wouldn't want to haul around heavy cams, but would do it if I thought the route had a long section of 3" crack. At the very least I would probably have a couple of cams that span 3-1/3 inches.

have fun,
dT


(This post was edited by distantThunder on Aug 1, 2013, 7:38 AM)


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