Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Question regarding extending quickdraw
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


Nayas


Jul 30, 2013, 11:08 AM
Post #1 of 16 (3012 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2011
Posts: 14

Question regarding extending quickdraw
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A friend and I are arguing on this, if anyone with more experience than us could comment:

Is Black Diamond 10mm Dynex 24'' (60cm) good to create your own extendable quickdraws?

Thank you very much for all your valuable input on this matter!


bearbreeder


Jul 30, 2013, 11:52 AM
Post #2 of 16 (2990 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [Nayas] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

yes youll be fine

its THAT simple

Tongue


jp_sucks


Jul 30, 2013, 12:38 PM
Post #3 of 16 (2969 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2006
Posts: 240

Re: [Nayas] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would agree that the answer is a simple yes.

But out of curiosity, what is the argument for or against it?


Nayas


Jul 30, 2013, 1:34 PM
Post #4 of 16 (2940 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2011
Posts: 14

Re: [jp_sucks] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema..

Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)


bearbreeder


Jul 30, 2013, 2:02 PM
Post #5 of 16 (2922 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [Nayas] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nayas wrote:
My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema..

Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)

and thus the intraweb "deadly dyneema" motto claims another victim ...

tommy caldwell on the dawn wall at night ... note the deadly dyneema draw on his shoulder ...



intraweb "experts" scream about dyneema for anything ... without understanding the real limitations

Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Jul 30, 2013, 2:03 PM)


Gmburns2000


Jul 30, 2013, 2:48 PM
Post #6 of 16 (2903 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15150

Re: [Nayas] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Nayas wrote:
My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema..

Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)

The length is fine and nylon or dyneema are both fine, too. Just know the limitations of each material.


redlude97


Jul 30, 2013, 3:39 PM
Post #7 of 16 (2882 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [Nayas] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dyneema=dynex=spectra=uhmwpe


Nayas


Jul 30, 2013, 7:15 PM
Post #8 of 16 (2844 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 19, 2011
Posts: 14

Re: [redlude97] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ya, was pretty sure of my shot. guess now ill just refer him to here and hopefully, we will climb more than we argue ;)


jt512


Jul 30, 2013, 8:18 PM
Post #9 of 16 (2825 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [bearbreeder] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
Nayas wrote:
My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema..

Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)

and thus the intraweb "deadly dyneema" motto claims another victim ...

tommy caldwell on the dawn wall at night ... note the deadly dyneema draw on his shoulder ...



intraweb "experts" scream about dyneema for anything ... without understanding the real limitations

Tongue

But, then, that guy managed to cut his own finger off.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 30, 2013, 8:18 PM)


bearbreeder


Jul 30, 2013, 9:12 PM
Post #10 of 16 (2806 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [jt512] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:

But, then, that guy managed to cut his own finger off.

and even with a missing finger ... he will climb harder, longer, and more than you ever will mistah jay ... or any intraweb "expert" here for that matter

Tongue


lena_chita
Moderator

Jul 31, 2013, 8:35 AM
Post #11 of 16 (2732 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5693

Re: [bearbreeder] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
Nayas wrote:
My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema..

Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)

and thus the intraweb "deadly dyneema" motto claims another victim ...

tommy caldwell on the dawn wall at night ... note the deadly dyneema draw on his shoulder ...



intraweb "experts" scream about dyneema for anything ... without understanding the real limitations

Tongue


I understand your obsession for setting the intraweb experts right. but has ANYONE in this thread disagreed with you and/or said that it was not O.K. to use the dyneema in the case that the OP asked about?


Partner cracklover


Jul 31, 2013, 9:51 AM
Post #12 of 16 (2709 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10007

Re: [lena_chita] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

lena_chita wrote:
bearbreeder wrote:
Nayas wrote:
My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema..

Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)

and thus the intraweb "deadly dyneema" motto claims another victim ...

tommy caldwell on the dawn wall at night ... note the deadly dyneema draw on his shoulder ...

[image]http://i43.tinypic.com/25hcyuq.png[/image]

intraweb "experts" scream about dyneema for anything ... without understanding the real limitations

Tongue


I understand your obsession for setting the intraweb experts right. but has ANYONE in this thread disagreed with you and/or said that it was not O.K. to use the dyneema in the case that the OP asked about?

No, in fact, BB completely misunderstood the OP's question/concern. But why should reading comprehension get in the way of arguing against "intraweb experts"? Oh, maybe because that's exactly how many false internet rumors start?

To BB: The OP's friend is concerned that "Dynex" is not Dyneema, and if it's some kind of nylon, it may be too small. Neither of them have any problem with Dyneema slings.

GO


qwert


Jul 31, 2013, 12:08 PM
Post #13 of 16 (2654 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 2394

Re: [cracklover] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dynema is perfectly fine for quickdraws and the like.

The issues with dynema are real, but they can easily be avoided:

It does not age to well - replace the slings more often than nylon

Its more static than Nylon - dont use it where you might have a static fall into your sling (but you should avoid those kinds of fall with nylon too). dont use it where you depend on some stretch in the system.

qwert


distantThunder


Aug 1, 2013, 9:51 PM
Post #14 of 16 (2496 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 4, 2012
Posts: 43

Re: [Nayas] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

two things on this - not that it affects me much.

maybe I don't understand the idea behind "extended quickdraws". or the name might describe something we just took for granted in the old days. but if there's some new concept here - could someone explain it.

anyway - check one of the latest Rock and Ice magazines. Two carabiners broke when a guy was climbing the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. The two biners broke in a row during a fall. a short fall became a 50-60 footer. I believe the extended draws were the primary contributor on that problem - R&I discusses various possibilities.

dT


lonequail


Aug 2, 2013, 7:16 AM
Post #15 of 16 (2436 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 8, 2004
Posts: 65

Re: [Nayas] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

OP/Nayas:
Dyneema is commonly used because the sling is thin making it easy to clip/unclip and all three loops fit into the biner, in comparison to nylon slings that are fatter, more cumbersome and bulky in the biners. Sure the Dyneema slings look thin and may not feel as secure, but they have adequate strength.

dT:
Extendable draws = alpine draws = compacted draws = tripled draws. With a simple neat trick, the sling is arranged with three loops through each biner. It can be used either in this compact arrangement, or by unclipping two of the loops, used completely extended.

General Note:
As per R & I there are several possibilities for the noted biner failures that may, or may not, be related to the draws. Regardless, there are reported problems with the use of keepers on extendable draws; both from possible biner breakage, and from inadvertent unclipping resulting in a disconnected draw.

(This post was edited by lonequail on Aug 2, 2013, 7:23 AM)


distantThunder


Aug 3, 2013, 12:48 PM
Post #16 of 16 (2320 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 4, 2012
Posts: 43

Re: [lonequail] Question regarding extending quickdraw [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

lonequail - thanks. yes we used to do that. we just never had a name for the technique, that's all :-)

I am hard pressed to think of any other reason why those 2 biners failed. two in a row - seems very unlikely.

cheers,
dT


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook