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lilvicks22
Jul 27, 2013, 3:09 AM
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Upon finishing a rap, my screwgate got completely locked and stuck. I heard that weighing it helps so I tried that but that didn't work. Used a small wrench to twist it open again.
I locked the carabiner BEFORE I put weight on it so I don't understand why it got stuck. Also, not sure what to do with this carabiner now...feels like with little effort I can get it locked and stuck again.
It's a BD vaporlock screwgate used only for belaying and rappelling. It's practically brand new (used 1-2 times a week for about a year) so I definitely would want to get more mileage out of it.
Any thoughts?
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kiwiprincess
Jul 27, 2013, 4:23 AM
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Clean it in case gunked up with dust in there?
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potreroed
Jul 27, 2013, 4:20 PM
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This is something that happens to everybody at one time or another. Your 'biner will be fine, just be more conscious every time you use it to not over-tighten it.
Other things you can do if it happens again is to tap at it with another 'biner or a nut tool, whatever you have available, and sometimes a generous amount of spit will also help.
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marc801
Jul 27, 2013, 9:20 PM
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lilvicks22 wrote: Upon finishing a rap, my screwgate got completely locked and stuck. I heard that weighing it helps so I tried that but that didn't work. Used a small wrench to twist it open again. I locked the carabiner BEFORE I put weight on it so I don't understand why it got stuck. Also, not sure what to do with this carabiner now...feels like with little effort I can get it locked and stuck again. It's a BD vaporlock screwgate used only for belaying and rappelling. It's practically brand new (used 1-2 times a week for about a year) so I definitely would want to get more mileage out of it. Any thoughts?
2. Stop buying screwgates - this is a classic problem of that 60 year old design. Get one of the modern auto-locking biners.
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Syd
Jul 27, 2013, 9:40 PM
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Just make sure you back it off 1/4 turn after tightening next time.
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ChalkIsCheap
Jul 28, 2013, 12:09 PM
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lilvicks22 wrote: Upon finishing a rap, my screwgate got completely locked and stuck. I heard that weighing it helps so I tried that but that didn't work. Used a small wrench to twist it open again. I locked the carabiner BEFORE I put weight on it so I don't understand why it got stuck. Also, not sure what to do with this carabiner now...feels like with little effort I can get it locked and stuck again. It's a BD vaporlock screwgate used only for belaying and rappelling. It's practically brand new (used 1-2 times a week for about a year) so I definitely would want to get more mileage out of it. Any thoughts?
Either stop using it for your belay biner and for something a little less important or practice getting it stuck a few times and get really good at freeing it up. Mine gets hung up on me but I can get it unstuck very quickly.
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chris
Jul 29, 2013, 6:16 PM
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I've also seen people REEF on their locking biner. The point of the screwlock is to keep the gate from opening, not from holding the force of a fall. Lightly finger-tight should be adequate.
I'm open to my belay 'biner being an auto-locker, but I've seen to many instances of the auto-locking mechanism jam. Or try using it with cold wet fingers as you're rappelling a multi-pitch route in a storm. All of my lockers are screwgates, and I've only had one locker - in 20 years - that's bottomed out like that described above.
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rocknice2
Jul 31, 2013, 3:57 AM
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Spend the extra buck or two and get a locker that bottoms on its thread not against the biner nose.
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ChalkIsCheap
Jul 31, 2013, 4:05 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: Spend the extra buck or two and get a locker that bottoms on its thread not against the biner nose.
My favorite belay biner that i use for my gri gri is a Rock Exotica Pirate manulock biner. It is just like a auto locker but you can lock it in the open state. I never use autolocking biners cause they are a PITA when you are removing them from the back of your harness and then attach it to your belay loop then to the rope. Sometimes you have to unlock the gate all three times before you are ready to belay or rap. With the manulock it is always ulocked, then when your device is set you just push the auto lock up and it twists and locks. Simple. If i see them at a gear store i am buying at least 4 more. Best belay biner evar!!!
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ChalkIsCheap
Jul 31, 2013, 7:08 PM
Post #11 of 26
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curt wrote: rocknice2 wrote: Spend the extra buck or two and get a locker that bottoms on its thread not against the biner nose. Or, get one of these. [image]http://www.edelrid.de/images/produkte/sports_2013/Hardware/hms%20slider%202013.jpg[/image] Curt
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curt
Jul 31, 2013, 8:25 PM
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ChalkIsCheap wrote: curt wrote: rocknice2 wrote: Spend the extra buck or two and get a locker that bottoms on its thread not against the biner nose. Or, get one of these.  Curt what is that? That looks sexy...
It's the Edelrid Strike Slider locking carabiner--and it is sexy.
Curt
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marc801
Aug 1, 2013, 2:59 PM
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ChalkIsCheap wrote: rocknice2 wrote: Spend the extra buck or two and get a locker that bottoms on its thread not against the biner nose. I thought mine bottomed out on the nose at first but bottoms out on the threads. When the screw gate siezes up the gate can still move back and forth on the nose end. My favorite belay biner that i use for my gri gri is a Rock Exotica Pirate manulock biner. It is just like a auto locker but you can lock it in the open state. I never use autolocking biners cause they are a PITA when you are removing them from the back of your harness and then attach it to your belay loop then to the rope. Sometimes you have to unlock the gate all three times before you are ready to belay or rap. With the manulock it is always ulocked, then when your device is set you just push the auto lock up and it twists and locks. Simple. If i see them at a gear store i am buying at least 4 more. Best belay biner evar!!!
Talk about manufacturing artificial problems.
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Berti
Aug 2, 2013, 5:09 AM
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Clean very well, add a tiny drop of oil or better if available a bit of graphite.
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distantThunder
Aug 7, 2013, 5:14 AM
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"Toss the biner into the random dead gear box "
+1
if it's a minor problem, you could release it with a little working by the fingers.
if it cannot be freed that way ... toss it. I'm tough on BAD GEAR. it's toast. I've got no time for gear that is badly designed or manufactured. bad gear will slow you down in the mountains, and in a crunch it might kill you.
good gear works well and works easily.
ONLY carry good gear.
this doesn't just apply to climbing - it applies to all areas of life where human life is at risk and results count.
cheers,
dT
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marc801
Aug 7, 2013, 3:47 PM
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Berti wrote: Clean very well, add a tiny drop of oil or better if available a bit of graphite.
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wonderwoman
Aug 7, 2013, 3:52 PM
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This constantly happens on my tiny madrock locker. I don't even have to lock it all the way for it to decide that it doesn't want to unlock.
I should probably apply some cam lube, but I never think to take the biner out of my gear when I get home.
My solution has been to avoid using it to anchor myself in at belay stations.
I also recently purchased a nut tool that has a knife attachment. One day I may find myself needing to use it for something or another. Although, I do hope it's not because I was stupid enough to use my madrock locker at a belay station!
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wonderwoman
Aug 7, 2013, 4:36 PM
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marc801 wrote: Berti wrote: Clean very well, add a tiny drop of oil or better if available a bit of graphite. Never, ever, ever put oil on any of your metal climbing gear - all it does is attract dirt and gunk and makes things much worse than they were before the oil.
What about cam lube? I had metolius master cams that were welded solid. I added some cam lube and they are like new.
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JimTitt
Aug 7, 2013, 6:00 PM
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marc801 wrote: Berti wrote: Clean very well, add a tiny drop of oil or better if available a bit of graphite. Never, ever, ever put oil on any of your metal climbing gear - all it does is attract dirt and gunk and makes things much worse than they were before the oil.
Shame, I´ve been using oil on my climbing gear for 45 years without knowing I was doing it all wrong.
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rocknice2
Aug 7, 2013, 7:04 PM
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JimTitt wrote: marc801 wrote: Berti wrote: Clean very well, add a tiny drop of oil or better if available a bit of graphite. Never, ever, ever put oil on any of your metal climbing gear - all it does is attract dirt and gunk and makes things much worse than they were before the oil. Shame, I´ve been using oil on my climbing gear for 45 years without knowing I was doing it all wrong.
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mikeyboyaz
Aug 7, 2013, 8:44 PM
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marc801 wrote: Berti wrote: Clean very well, add a tiny drop of oil or better if available a bit of graphite. Never, ever, ever put oil on any of your metal climbing gear - all it does is attract dirt and gunk and makes things much worse than they were before the oil.
another option besides oil is aerosol PTFE, works wonders for me. (sometimes called dry-lube)
Note: The material is not embedded with PTFE so it will not last, but it should allow you to break the threads loose.
P.S: Getting dirt out of threads is also possible in a hobby or jewelry grade ultrasonic cleaner. Run it once with the gate closed and again open.
(This post was edited by mikeyboyaz on Aug 7, 2013, 8:47 PM)
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dr_feelgood
Aug 8, 2013, 4:10 AM
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wonderwoman wrote: marc801 wrote: Berti wrote: Clean very well, add a tiny drop of oil or better if available a bit of graphite. Never, ever, ever put oil on any of your metal climbing gear - all it does is attract dirt and gunk and makes things much worse than they were before the oil. What about cam lube? I had metolius master cams that were welded solid. I added some cam lube and they are like new.
I also clean them when they need to be cleaned.
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mikebarter387
Oct 1, 2013, 2:32 AM
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Really? you couldn't just throw the fucking thing in the garbage and go buy another. This thread like so many others is a waste of time.
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6pacfershur
Oct 1, 2013, 3:07 AM
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mikebarter387 wrote: Really? you couldn't just throw the fucking thing in the garbage and go buy another. This thread like so many others is a waste of time.
please dont leave us for MP....i would miss your contributions
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JTeastAZ
Jul 11, 2014, 2:28 AM
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Contact Black Diamond. If that doesn't work, sign up to review on their site and tell your story. You will probably end up with a new biner.
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