Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
What went wrong with new Mythos?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


anonymousCoward


Jul 31, 2013, 9:02 PM
Post #1 of 13 (2919 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 8, 2013
Posts: 6

What went wrong with new Mythos?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Has the La Sportiva Mythos design changed. My new Mythos are just plain crap. I have used Mythos for many years, and I just bought my fifth pair which sucks compared to all my previous pairs.

A friend is having the same experience. He just bought a new pair also and likens them to those wooden souvenir shows that you can buy in Holland.

In particular the rubber has no stick and in general the show just doesn't have that precise feel like previous versions did.

Also, I wonder if I can get some compensation from La Sportiva for these. I have used them for about a month and can't really take them back to the store.


csproul


Aug 1, 2013, 4:41 AM
Post #2 of 13 (2855 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [anonymousCoward] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

anonymousCoward wrote:
Has the La Sportiva Mythos design changed. My new Mythos are just plain crap. I have used Mythos for many years, and I just bought my fifth pair which sucks compared to all my previous pairs.

A friend is having the same experience. He just bought a new pair also and likens them to those wooden souvenir shows that you can buy in Holland.

In particular the rubber has no stick and in general the show just doesn't have that precise feel like previous versions did.

Also, I wonder if I can get some compensation from La Sportiva for these. I have used them for about a month and can't really take them back to the store.
Precise?!? Mythos are a lot of things (comfortable, versatile...) but they have never been what I would call precise. I haven't seen new ones, but if you look at the picture they use in the advertisement, they look like they are almost downturned. Marketing ploy picture or are they really that different?


jowybyo


Aug 1, 2013, 10:50 AM
Post #3 of 13 (2745 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 6, 2012
Posts: 20

Re: [anonymousCoward] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When was the last time you bought a pair? I bought a pair about 2.5-3 years ago. I would describe them as not precise and slippery. The rubber is not sticky at all. The cheap Evolve that my local gym offers are tackier than my Mythos.

They are comfy though.


bearbreeder


Aug 1, 2013, 3:51 PM
Post #4 of 13 (2644 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [jowybyo] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

http://www.youtube.com/...vRHuTKD8&t=1m10s

huber leading a quite run out 5.13- technical edging big wall face pitch on baffin island with a dyno finish ... in his purple mythos



Wink


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Aug 1, 2013, 4:18 PM)


potreroed


Aug 1, 2013, 8:25 PM
Post #5 of 13 (2573 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1451

Re: [bearbreeder] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's the climber, not the shoe. In fact, the best climber I know regularly climbs 13's barefoot.

Still, I'm sorry to hear about the Mythos--I always liked those.

I remember being devastated when Boreal changed the Ace. I loved that shoe and went through 3 pairs with 5 resoles on each. I bought a pair of the new Aces and hated them so much that one day I just left them at the crag.


TradEddie


Aug 1, 2013, 10:20 PM
Post #6 of 13 (2555 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 164

Re: [bearbreeder] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
huber leading a quite run out 5.13- technical edging big wall face pitch on baffin island with a dyno finish ... in his purple mythos

EXACTLY! You can't get purple mythos anymore. The "terra" ones are different, perhaps not officially, but in reality. I don't know if it's the rubber, but the new ones don't last nearly as long, take much longer to break in, and don't smear as well.

TE


Partner robdotcalm


Aug 2, 2013, 8:02 AM
Post #7 of 13 (2486 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1023

Re: [anonymousCoward] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There does seem to have been a decrease in quality control. For many years I've bought size 40.5. Recently I bought a pair in that size after a little stretching from wear the L one was the size of 41.5 and the R one a 42. I returned them to the store, which sent them back to Sportiva who then sent a new pair of 40.5. The new sportivas do seem to have sewing not as good as the purple version.

I wondered if they were still being manufactured in Italy. Seems they are. Sportiva rubber has never been very sticky. I go to C4 at resole time

r.c


redlude97


Aug 2, 2013, 8:04 AM
Post #8 of 13 (2480 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [TradEddie] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There was definitely a rubber change to vibram xs edge and a lot of people aren't fans, friction being one of the biggest gripes. Maybe try resoling in C4 or XS Grip2 if you can find it.


csproul


Aug 2, 2013, 10:08 AM
Post #9 of 13 (2440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [bearbreeder] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/...vRHuTKD8&t=1m10s

huber leading a quite run out 5.13- technical edging big wall face pitch on baffin island with a dyno finish ... in his purple mythos

[image]http://i42.tinypic.com/2hov150.jpg[/image]

Wink
Yeah, what's your point? I've seen people climb harder than I can in swim flippers. Doesn't mean that they wouldn't climb harder without them. I know 100% for certain that FOR ME, the shoe I wear matters. Maybe not much, but certain shoes feel better for certain types of climbing. I use Mythos for lots of things, but if I want to feel precise edges, I think they suck. Sure TC could climb my project barefoot, but every little bit helps and if I can wear a pair of shoes that make a route easier for me, I'm going to wear them.

Do you know that Huber isn't wearing those because of attributes other than precision? He is on a bigwall and Mythos are pretty comfy to wear all day. Would he be able to climb harder in another shoe? Maybe 13- is easy for him and it doesn't matter what shoe he wears.


(This post was edited by csproul on Aug 2, 2013, 10:28 AM)


bearbreeder


Aug 2, 2013, 10:40 AM
Post #10 of 13 (2420 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [csproul] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thats you

Others find the old purple "barney the dino" mythos work just fine

As a few others have indicated

Note that on the same climb, his brother thomas wore the katana lace the entire wall ... Alex also TRed the pitch before hand and had issues with it, didnt seem like a cake walk

Shoes are a personal preference ... Not an intraweb certainty

Tongue


(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Aug 2, 2013, 10:44 AM)


csproul


Aug 2, 2013, 11:10 AM
Post #11 of 13 (2406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [bearbreeder] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bearbreeder wrote:
Thats you

Others find the old purple "barney the dino" mythos work just fine

As a few others have indicated

Note that on the same climb, his brother thomas wore the katana lace the entire wall ... Alex also TRed the pitch before hand and had issues with it, didnt seem like a cake walk

Shoes are a personal preference ... Not an intraweb certainty

Tongue
Sure shoes are a personal preference, but if you are saying that equipment choices don't matter, that would be ridiculous. I spent years as a competitive cyclist and got to race against some of the best cyclists in the world. Most of them could have beaten me riding a 30lb Huffy. I'm not them and I'm not Alex Huber. I only have me (for better or worse) to work with at any given time. There are equipment choices that made me ride faster and to argue otherwise is just plain crap. Maybe I could have made up those differences by training more, but I did what I could and used other choices (diet, equipment, strategy) to ride the best I could. Same with climbing. I climb as hard as my current self will allow me and I maximize that with choices about equipment and strategy, just like when I was a bike racer. If you want to argue that shoes don't matter, try your hardest climb in a pair of EB's. Sure Bacher could have sent it in EB's, but you're not Bacher and neither am I. Mythos are a hell of a lot better than EB's, so the difference might be slight, or even non-existent since, as you point out, shoes are little more of a personal preference than an outright advantage one way or another.


bearbreeder


Aug 2, 2013, 11:36 AM
Post #12 of 13 (2395 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [csproul] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What works for you may not work for someone else

The fallacy is in believing that a piece of gear that doesnt work for you wont work for me ... And writting essays to justify it

One of my partners climbs in mythos, i climb harder overall, but he actually does better in his mythos on edging climbs than i do in my fancy miura VSes

Shoes CAN make a difference, but what difference it makes is up to the climber and their prefernces ... Note that sharma sent the hardest climbs in the world not too long ago on soft rounded moccassins, it worked for him

I will say that there is a slightly different technique to using soft rounded shoes on edges vs. stiff pointed ones ... Which seems to a lost art these days

Tongue


weschrist


Aug 2, 2013, 4:14 PM
Post #13 of 13 (2346 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 13, 2004
Posts: 579

Re: [anonymousCoward] What went wrong with new Mythos? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have used La Sportiva almost exclusively for nearly 10 years.

My last 5 pairs have fallen apart within 6 months... I usually get 2 years out of my shoes. The sole around the balls of my feet delaminates, the heal delaminates, and what pass for laces always break. The right foot on my Mythos has the rubber right up to the sawtooth leather near the laces... on the left foot, the rubber is over 1/2 inch away. I can't get the left shoe tight because the sides of the shoe touch. The tightest I can get my right shoe barely covers the tongue.

Recently my gf bought a pair of ladies Miuras, the same size she had before (36.5). They were way too big, so we went to exchange them. She tried 1/2 size smaller and could not get her foot in. She tried another 36.5 and they fit perfectly. Holding the first pair up to the second pair (same size) there was about 1/4 to 1/2 inch difference in length, even when smashing them flat.

I am disappointed in the quality of La Sportiva and refused to buy them for a while. But for me, there really is NO other shoe that performs as well.

Just dropped $170 on a new pair. It was either that or lose weight and learn to climb.

[/bitch]


(This post was edited by weschrist on Aug 2, 2013, 7:19 PM)


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook