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Nayas
Jul 30, 2013, 6:08 PM
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A friend and I are arguing on this, if anyone with more experience than us could comment:
Is Black Diamond 10mm Dynex 24'' (60cm) good to create your own extendable quickdraws?
Thank you very much for all your valuable input on this matter!
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bearbreeder
Jul 30, 2013, 6:52 PM
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yes youll be fine
its THAT simple
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jp_sucks
Jul 30, 2013, 7:38 PM
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I would agree that the answer is a simple yes.
But out of curiosity, what is the argument for or against it?
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Nayas
Jul 30, 2013, 8:34 PM
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My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema..
Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)
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Gmburns2000
Jul 30, 2013, 9:48 PM
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Nayas wrote: My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema.. Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;)
The length is fine and nylon or dyneema are both fine, too. Just know the limitations of each material.
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redlude97
Jul 30, 2013, 10:39 PM
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dyneema=dynex=spectra=uhmwpe
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Nayas
Jul 31, 2013, 2:15 AM
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Ya, was pretty sure of my shot. guess now ill just refer him to here and hopefully, we will climb more than we argue ;)
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jt512
Jul 31, 2013, 3:18 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: Nayas wrote: My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema.. Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;) and thus the intraweb "deadly dyneema" motto claims another victim ... tommy caldwell on the dawn wall at night ... note the deadly dyneema draw on his shoulder ...  intraweb "experts" scream about dyneema for anything ... without understanding the real limitations
But, then, that guy managed to cut his own finger off.
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 31, 2013, 3:18 AM)
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lena_chita
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Jul 31, 2013, 3:35 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: Nayas wrote: My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema.. Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;) and thus the intraweb "deadly dyneema" motto claims another victim ... tommy caldwell on the dawn wall at night ... note the deadly dyneema draw on his shoulder ... intraweb "experts" scream about dyneema for anything ... without understanding the real limitations
I understand your obsession for setting the intraweb experts right. but has ANYONE in this thread disagreed with you and/or said that it was not O.K. to use the dyneema in the case that the OP asked about?
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cracklover
Jul 31, 2013, 4:51 PM
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lena_chita wrote: bearbreeder wrote: Nayas wrote: My friend says they are too small and that we should use dyneema.. Im trying to find is Dynex is simply the french translation for dyneema... but some site says yes, other no. quite confusing ;) and thus the intraweb "deadly dyneema" motto claims another victim ... tommy caldwell on the dawn wall at night ... note the deadly dyneema draw on his shoulder ... [image]http://i43.tinypic.com/25hcyuq.png[/image] intraweb "experts" scream about dyneema for anything ... without understanding the real limitations I understand your obsession for setting the intraweb experts right. but has ANYONE in this thread disagreed with you and/or said that it was not O.K. to use the dyneema in the case that the OP asked about?
No, in fact, BB completely misunderstood the OP's question/concern. But why should reading comprehension get in the way of arguing against "intraweb experts"? Oh, maybe because that's exactly how many false internet rumors start?
To BB: The OP's friend is concerned that "Dynex" is not Dyneema, and if it's some kind of nylon, it may be too small. Neither of them have any problem with Dyneema slings.
GO
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qwert
Jul 31, 2013, 7:08 PM
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Dynema is perfectly fine for quickdraws and the like.
The issues with dynema are real, but they can easily be avoided:
It does not age to well - replace the slings more often than nylon
Its more static than Nylon - dont use it where you might have a static fall into your sling (but you should avoid those kinds of fall with nylon too). dont use it where you depend on some stretch in the system.
qwert
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distantThunder
Aug 2, 2013, 4:51 AM
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two things on this - not that it affects me much.
maybe I don't understand the idea behind "extended quickdraws". or the name might describe something we just took for granted in the old days. but if there's some new concept here - could someone explain it.
anyway - check one of the latest Rock and Ice magazines. Two carabiners broke when a guy was climbing the Leaning Tower in Yosemite. The two biners broke in a row during a fall. a short fall became a 50-60 footer. I believe the extended draws were the primary contributor on that problem - R&I discusses various possibilities.
dT
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lonequail
Aug 2, 2013, 2:16 PM
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OP/Nayas:
Dyneema is commonly used because the sling is thin making it easy to clip/unclip and all three loops fit into the biner, in comparison to nylon slings that are fatter, more cumbersome and bulky in the biners. Sure the Dyneema slings look thin and may not feel as secure, but they have adequate strength.
dT:
Extendable draws = alpine draws = compacted draws = tripled draws. With a simple neat trick, the sling is arranged with three loops through each biner. It can be used either in this compact arrangement, or by unclipping two of the loops, used completely extended.
General Note:
As per R & I there are several possibilities for the noted biner failures that may, or may not, be related to the draws. Regardless, there are reported problems with the use of keepers on extendable draws; both from possible biner breakage, and from inadvertent unclipping resulting in a disconnected draw.
(This post was edited by lonequail on Aug 2, 2013, 2:23 PM)
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distantThunder
Aug 3, 2013, 7:48 PM
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lonequail - thanks. yes we used to do that. we just never had a name for the technique, that's all :-)
I am hard pressed to think of any other reason why those 2 biners failed. two in a row - seems very unlikely.
cheers,
dT
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