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nbarreto
Aug 13, 2013, 10:16 AM
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This is going to sound really weird but I just started to get into climbing (I did a lot of gymnastics before) and I climb 5.12d/5.13a (depends on the kind of route lol) but I went bouldering and couldn't even make it up some of the V3's. I'm pretty tiny (5'3 and about 100 lbs).
I'm trying to go bouldering more often but I seem to be stuck at that level. Does anyone else have a similar problem? Should I be training more on overhangs/dynos and just brute strength? Any advice would be greatly appreciated 
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brooklynclimber
Aug 15, 2013, 1:54 AM
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Funny - my problem is just the opposite. I can climb most v3s, but only at 5.10c on roped climbs. I think you need to identify what the weakness is that is holding you back. Strength? Try doing some strength training like Frenchies to improve lock off strength.
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Carrick
Aug 15, 2013, 5:34 PM
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Coming from a sport like gymnastics, you're likely to have all the power you need to advance past V3. Now, the technical aspects of bouldering are going to be different than sport much of the time - as a shorter person I find overhung bouldering (which can be a lot of it) to be more difficult than a similarly rated face (more frequent in sport). It requires movement like really high hand-foot matches and often a more dynamic style than I've encountered outdoors. Find what you can barely do and work on doing it beautifully, and the next grade will come to you. Then repeat.
tldr; if you're just starting, work technique by just bouldering what you're capable of.
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skelldify
Aug 15, 2013, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Jan 20, 2013
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The routes at your gym are soft. The boulder problems are graded accurately. Don't worry about grades if you're just getting started.
If you really want to know what grade you climb, do some outdoor routes. They tend to be graded more accurately.
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5.samadhi
Aug 17, 2013, 2:39 PM
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improve finger strength.
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shockabuku
Aug 17, 2013, 5:59 PM
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Kids have similar issues. Generally routes have less complicated and less powerful movement than boulder problems. Get past your expectations and apply yourself with an expectation that it's going to take some time. Climbing is not gymnastics, you'll have to learn some new things as well as develop some new physical attributes. I would expect that in a year of diligent application your route and bouldering grades will converge.
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peterdays
Dec 23, 2013, 1:37 AM
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If you're only into bouldering then putting training plans together is pretty straightforward. However, if you want to climb on consecutive days then be sure to change the style of bouldering or the intensity to avoid repetitive strain.
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ConquertheCrux
Dec 23, 2013, 3:34 AM
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Registered: Jul 30, 2013
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I was in your situation many years ago. I started with routes and eventually transitioned to bouldering. I found the transition very difficult and frustrating.
To be honest some of the best training for climbing is just more climbing. Boulder as much as you can. You probably already have decent finger strength and just overall strength to be able to pass the plateau you've hit. Just focus on quantity over quality. Although obviously technique can take you a long way, just focus on climbing as many climbs as you can during each session. Don't get caught up on projecting right now. Climb a lot, and you'll develop the power strength that's needed to get over the annoying hump.
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