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dr_feelgood
Aug 16, 2013, 3:49 AM
Post #100501 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: wow. swete carck technique. I guess he takes the adage that "if the back of your hand touches the rockconcrete, it's not climbing" pretty seriously.
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dr_feelgood
Aug 16, 2013, 4:09 AM
Post #100502 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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much like I lurve the ptftw
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dr_feelgood
Aug 16, 2013, 4:10 AM
Post #100503 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: This video has it all!! A straight meat deck, shitty home made pro, (wood blocks with tape on it?) terrible double gaston crack technique, and buddies who don't even get up when the dude eats shit. And then the guy from flat on his back "i knew it was gonna rip." I was impressed by the fine glue up they had going around that crack though, looks like it could be fun to train on.
Further proof that GoPro=n00b
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camhead
Aug 16, 2013, 4:43 AM
Post #100504 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: wow. swete carck technique. I guess he takes the adage that "if the back of your hand touches the rockconcrete, it's not climbing" pretty seriously. I do love his homemade gearz.
I've actually climbed that crack. Right near my alma mater.
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dr_feelgood
Aug 16, 2013, 4:57 AM
Post #100505 of 105309
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camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: wow. swete carck technique. I guess he takes the adage that "if the back of your hand touches the rockconcrete, it's not climbing" pretty seriously. I do love his homemade gearz. I've actually climbed that crack. Right near my alma mater.
Oh they are Texans? It's a shame he didn't hit harder.
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tripperjm
Aug 16, 2013, 10:27 AM
Post #100506 of 105309
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Posts: 10650
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snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: Hey Jack, we never did hear about your piss off teh Klown tour... where did you go? Was that guide I sent over helpful? I just got the new glossy color one in the mails on Monday. we need a full spraydown.
huh?
Ewe didn't read my spray report?
Hear, I'll repost it just fer ewe.... 'went to several gnu crags, tried a bunch ov difficult roots... and even sent a few.'
Try to pay attention?
And yea CI, yore guide wus helpful, thanks.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 16, 2013, 12:16 PM
Post #100507 of 105309
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Posts: 6087
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carabiner96 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: wow. swete carck technique. I guess he takes the adage that "if the back of your hand touches the rockconcrete, it's not climbing" pretty seriously. 'lol wat is that shit? can you even handjam?' Stellar comments, too.
I always wonder, why do people post these kinds of videos? Does he think it makes him look good? or badass? Or what?
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snoopy138
Aug 16, 2013, 3:59 PM
Post #100508 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: This video has it all!! A straight meat deck, shitty home made pro, (wood blocks with tape on it?) terrible double gaston crack technique, and buddies who don't even get up when the dude eats shit. And then the guy from flat on his back "i knew it was gonna rip." I was impressed by the fine glue up they had going around that crack though, looks like it could be fun to train on.
i probibly need to watch it with the volume on.
I wonder if kamhed ever climbed that carck.
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snoopy138
Aug 16, 2013, 4:00 PM
Post #100509 of 105309
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camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: wow. swete carck technique. I guess he takes the adage that "if the back of your hand touches the rockconcrete, it's not climbing" pretty seriously. I do love his homemade gearz. I've actually climbed that crack. Right near my alma mater.
fuck. I guess that answers that.
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snoopy138
Aug 20, 2013, 3:57 PM
Post #100510 of 105309
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nobody climbed over teh weke end? or at least did anything worth posting?
I drank teh beerz, and added the blort. Russian River makes an awesome sour porter. The Mets lost on a walk-off homer in the 9th inning.
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granite_grrl
Aug 20, 2013, 4:31 PM
Post #100511 of 105309
(5553 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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snoopy138 wrote: nobody climbed over teh weke end? or at least did anything worth posting? I drank teh beerz, and added the blort. Russian River makes an awesome sour porter. The Mets lost on a walk-off homer in the 9th inning.
I climbed a hard route. 5 attempts over 2 days, 3 of which were beta sourcing runs. I'm in pretty good shape right now and climbing the best I ever have right now.
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camhead
Aug 20, 2013, 4:58 PM
Post #100512 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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snoopy138 wrote: nobody climbed over teh weke end? or at least did anything worth posting? I drank teh beerz, and added the blort. Russian River makes an awesome sour porter. The Mets lost on a walk-off homer in the 9th inning.
Been reviving the psych, and some great temps just dropped down here. Did a few more moderate tard routes on the bucket list, got one move farther in one-hanging the hardest evar prodge, and also brownpointed another prodge, too. And when I say brown-point, I'm talking about the worst possible definition of the term. (sekrit not-so-radness)
Also bought a gnu mando. It is beautiful.
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granite_grrl
Aug 20, 2013, 5:11 PM
Post #100513 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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So someone who is uneducated in the ways of electrical shiz isn't supossed to be going into electrical panels here are work, yet you can't keep them out of them.
Just told some young guy he shouldn't be in a panel and he gave me lip. Just found out the main pressman (guy running the printing press) went upstairs and reset a breaker (in a different electrical breaker) while two electricians and myself were standing right there.
This place pisses me off sometimes, mostly because there's nothing I can do. It has a terrible safety culture.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 20, 2013, 5:21 PM
Post #100514 of 105309
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No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace!
O.K., I'll spray.
Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry.
Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste.
We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. 
Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?"
I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump.
Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then...
"WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!"
LOL. It was a good moment. I really really planned to jump. I really did. Even though right now I am in the hangboard phase and my dynoing is even suckier than it normally is, which is REALLY sucky. But I got there, grabbed a good sidepull, locked off, grabbed a shitty sloping 2-finger crimp that somehow wasn't that bad at all, and even though the voice in my head was saying, 'shit-shit-shit, I was supposed to jump, wtf, I had tried this before, it is not going to work', it all worked out just fine, I re-adjusted my feet and i crossed to the good finish hold.
Didn't send anything else on Saturday. Tried two other 12s, and a 13. I will be able to do that one, for sure-- when I am able to stick the campus move from rung 1 to 7, that is... in other words, probably never.
Then we went to a birthday party for a guy I didn't know, but I knew all the guests. And it was fun. Though i have to say, camhead, the Scratch-a-rita is not as good as a real margarita, sorry.
Sunday was rainy. Camhead bailed again, for complicated reasons that I didn't quite understand, because I was hearing them second-hand, through Banz's conversation. It involved trash clean-up...
We went to Summersville lake, and used a new approach that I wholeheartedly approve. Instead of hiking in, we got into a canoe, and paddled in. Took just as long as the hike, and was just as wet as the hike would have been, but minus all the mud-sliding. Then we built a fire, and had a fun day of not-sending. There were only couple other guys there, really nice. Still haven't stuck the move to V-slot on Apollo. Everyone says that I will HAVE to jump on that one, lock-offs or what not, there is no way around it. I will have to jump. And I know it. I just haven't yet. I really suck at dynos, but with the kind of dyno where you have a heel hook and a foot nowhere near being under you, I suck even worse. I keep thinking how dribble did it. But I still can't.
I didn't cry though. I didn't cry!
That's awl.
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camhead
Aug 20, 2013, 5:52 PM
Post #100515 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Then we went to a birthday party for a guy I didn't know, but I knew all the guests. And it was fun. Though i have to say, camhead, the Scratch-a-rita is not as good as a real margarita, sorry. Sunday was rainy. Camhead bailed again, for complicated reasons that I didn't quite understand, because I was hearing them second-hand, through Banz's conversation. It involved trash clean-up...
Yeah, I only used the Scratch because we were low on lime juice. It was a solid C+. The party was epic. Chris really wanted to get birthday boy Craig trashed, and the process from begining to toilet hugging reminded me of a Tyson fight from the 80s. It was just over quickly for the poor guy.
As for the bailage: I had a half day of work to do, had some friends going to the Cirque, which I was more psyched on, and then the final clincher was that I had bailed on a clean-up service project at the lake by saying I had work to do. The cleanup was based at the place y'all put in the canoe, and I did not want to walk past them en route to climbing.
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caughtinside
Aug 20, 2013, 5:55 PM
Post #100516 of 105309
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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snoopy138 wrote: nobody climbed over teh weke end? or at least did anything worth posting? I drank teh beerz, and added the blort. Russian River makes an awesome sour porter. The Mets lost on a walk-off homer in the 9th inning.
Went for a bike ride. Did some Power Yoga. Avoided the loyerette, who is on a juice fast and predictibly kranky.
The good gnus is that the surf is up and I had a good sesh yesterday and today before work. Supposed to be fun again tomorrow before returning to summer flatness.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 20, 2013, 6:10 PM
Post #100517 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: Then we went to a birthday party for a guy I didn't know, but I knew all the guests. And it was fun. Though i have to say, camhead, the Scratch-a-rita is not as good as a real margarita, sorry. Sunday was rainy. Camhead bailed again, for complicated reasons that I didn't quite understand, because I was hearing them second-hand, through Banz's conversation. It involved trash clean-up... Yeah, I only used the Scratch because we were low on lime juice. It was a solid C+. The party was epic. Chris really wanted to get birthday boy Craig trashed, and the process from begining to toilet hugging reminded me of a Tyson fight from the 80s. It was just over quickly for the poor guy. As for the bailage: I had a half day of work to do, had some friends going to the Cirque, which I was more psyched on, and then the final clincher was that I had bailed on a clean-up service project at the lake by saying I had work to do. The cleanup was based at the place y'all put in the canoe, and I did not want to walk past them en route to climbing.
Yeah, we actually ran into a bunch of people on stand-up paddleboards. Those things look fun! Didn't see Spencer, but Chris and Jiff and Gailin were there.
I still have never been to the Cirque. One of these days, I'll go there. I was pretty trashed on Sunday, so getting on a new hard route would have been pretty miserable. I really didn't want to ruin my no-crying streak.
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snoopy138
Aug 20, 2013, 6:18 PM
Post #100518 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!"
would have been cooler if you jumped.
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snoopy138
Aug 20, 2013, 6:20 PM
Post #100519 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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caughtinside wrote: snoopy138 wrote: nobody climbed over teh weke end? or at least did anything worth posting? I drank teh beerz, and added the blort. Russian River makes an awesome sour porter. The Mets lost on a walk-off homer in the 9th inning. Avoided the loyerette, who is on a juice fast and predictibly kranky.
sounds like it would have been a gud weke end to spend at teh lepe.
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granite_grrl
Aug 20, 2013, 6:34 PM
Post #100520 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped.
He makes a good poynte.
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cracklover
Aug 20, 2013, 7:39 PM
Post #100521 of 105309
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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snoopy138 wrote: nobody climbed over teh weke end? or at least did anything worth posting? I drank teh beerz, and added the blort. Russian River makes an awesome sour porter. The Mets lost on a walk-off homer in the 9th inning.
An acquaintance is in town staying and climbing with me. He's really into the alpine, so Saturday we warmed up at Lumpy Ridge, Sunday we did the Petit Grepon, and today/tomorrow we are going to do the Casual Route on The Diamond.
That's probably more alpine rock in one long weekend than I've done in my life.
Friend of mine meatbombed a couple days ago in the North Chimney. Will not be doing that myself, as we're going to rap in from the notch. So I'll just have to find some other way to meatbomb.
GO
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 20, 2013, 7:54 PM
Post #100522 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped. He makes a good poynte.
I know.
I was going to... but then my brain turned off, and I just did what was obvious, and somehow that wasn't the jump. And by the time I realized that i had committed to a move that I had tried unsuccessfully before, it was too late to reverse it.
I really don't know how to make myself jump more. I had just set two boulder problems at the gym, both of them with dynos, but they are the dynos that i can do every freaking time, because they are the kind of dynos that i CAN do.
I really suck at dynamic moves where the feet are really high and off to one side, or under a roof, so I am in an L-shape, to begin with, and i need to push out, but at the same time make the push go up. Does it make sense? I can sort-of do dynos when I am pushing off of lower feet that are to one side, or high feet that are directly underneath me, but the L-shape just screws with my mind. When i try to jump in that position it's like I am blocking myself, I am not even going in the right direction, I can't get any momentum going... And I cannot even figure out how to set these types of moves on the walls that we have.
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snoopy138
Aug 20, 2013, 8:18 PM
Post #100523 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped. He makes a good poynte.
could have skipped the recently chipped-on hold by jumping.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Aug 20, 2013, 8:28 PM
Post #100524 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace! O.K., I'll spray. Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry. Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste. We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?" I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump. Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then... "WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!" would have been cooler if you jumped. He makes a good poynte. could have skipped the recently chipped-on hold by jumping.
Shit, THAT'S what it was! oh, good! I should thank Banz of chipping that one, and ask him to chip a few more for me.
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granite_grrl
Aug 20, 2013, 9:42 PM
Post #100525 of 105309
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Posts: 15084
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I could get this PTFTW, but I'm going to eat my dinner instead, and then I'm going to go for a 30mi bike ride.
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