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CallumKX


Aug 23, 2013, 5:18 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2013
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Need help picking some shoes
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Hey guys, im planning on getting some new shoes. Im do alot of my climbing indoors and rarely go out. I usually sport climb and boulder.
Its a toss up between:

La Sportiva pythons
La sportiva miuras
La sportiva solutions

What are your opinions? Could you give a bit of details as well? (Pros and cons)


shockabuku


Aug 23, 2013, 7:20 AM
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Re: [CallumKX] Need help picking some shoes [In reply to]
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CallumKX wrote:
Hey guys, im planning on getting some new shoes. Im do alot of my climbing indoors and rarely go out. I usually sport climb and boulder.
Its a toss up between:

La Sportiva pythons
La sportiva miuras
La sportiva solutions

What are your opinions? Could you give a bit of details as well? (Pros and cons)

For indoor climbing I'd go with the velcro closures (Pythons/Solutions unless you meant Miura VS). Assuming that they fit best. They're all good shoes, Miuras being the stiffest and probably least desirable of the three for bouldering. Still a good shoe however.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on Aug 23, 2013, 7:22 AM)


brinosaur


Aug 23, 2013, 10:53 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Need help picking some shoes [In reply to]
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Add Cobras and Katanas to the list (if you are set on Sportivas).

Try them all out, as they will fit and perform differently (in some cases significantly so):

-If you lean more towards sport rather than bouldering, I'd go for the Miuras, Katanas, or Cobras, as they are better as all around shoes - they won't be torturous on slabby routes or in cracks and will still perform well on steep routes and problems.

-The Pythons and especially Solutions are much more specialized (and in many ways limited) to steep climbing. As such, they lend themselves better to bouldering or as 'project shoes' for steep routes, and many climbers complain about pain or poor performance on slabs or in foot jams. Make sure the heels fit snugly, without *any* slippage or wiggle room.

-Keep in mind that making an expensive shoe, such as the Solutions, your primary gym pair is not the most thrifty of ideas. If you climb frequently, replacing a $110 dollar pair of shoes every few months is a bit more reasonable than doing so with one that costs over $170.

-Resist the urge to buy a shoe based on its 'sex appeal' and focus on FIT and CONTEXT. So many folks go for shoes based 'pro' features such as extreme downturns and end up purchasing shoes that neither fit properly or are ill-suited to their actual needs. Seeing climbers flailing up vertical 5.10s in sloppy-fitting Solutions is a common sight, and a waste of an expensive shoe.
A properly fitting and appropriately featured shoe, no matter how 'novice' an image the brand/model projects, is worlds better.

Long story short:

Try them all on, in addition to other makes and models.
Buy according to your actual needs and fit above all else.
Buy from a location with a decent return policy to really get a feel for if the shoe is truly what you want or need.


(This post was edited by brinosaur on Aug 23, 2013, 10:54 AM)


CallumKX


Aug 23, 2013, 4:16 PM
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Re: [brinosaur] Need help picking some shoes [In reply to]
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I was planning on the cobras at first. But i was told that the pythons are exactly like the cobras but with a better heel, a closure up top, and extra rubber for toe hooking. Either way, you've pointed out very good points. Its more about the fit of the shoe and the requirements. Im also a little afraid that the cobra and pythons 3.5 mm sole burns out quick


brinosaur


Aug 23, 2013, 4:46 PM
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Pythons have an added feature to retain the downturn longer, ala the solutions. While they look similar, the cobras and pythons do fit and perform differently.

The rubber on both are indeed thin. If you want a beefier, longer lasting shoe, go for the miuras or katanas. Keep in mind that you can resole any of the shoes if you send them in before total destruction, although the fit on more downturned shoes can be significantly different from when they are new after resoling.


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