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randyhsi
Aug 26, 2013, 10:07 PM
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Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more.
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shimanilami
Aug 27, 2013, 12:22 AM
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That's odd. I always felt that climbing was a sport that promoted balance, not the opposite.
Perhaps you're favoring your right hand in activities other than climbing - e.g. masturbating. It can be a hard habit to break. (I know I have that problem.)
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shockabuku
Aug 27, 2013, 3:38 AM
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shimanilami wrote: That's odd. I always felt that climbing was a sport that promoted balance, not the opposite. Perhaps you're favoring your right hand in activities other than climbing - e.g. masturbating. It can be a hard habit to break. (I know I have that problem.)
+1
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rocknice2
Aug 27, 2013, 2:50 PM
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randyhsi wrote: Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more.
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5.samadhi
Aug 28, 2013, 1:20 PM
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randyhsi wrote: Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more.
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rsmillbern
Aug 28, 2013, 1:34 PM
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Is this you??
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dynosore
Aug 29, 2013, 2:36 PM
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rocknice2 wrote: randyhsi wrote: Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more. Have you tried leading with both hands? Not just your right or left.
My thoughts exactly 
Leading with one hand sounds like a game you'd play at the climbing gym.
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flesh
Oct 7, 2013, 9:53 PM
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I'm a lefty and my left hand has always been stronger.... I can dead hang a campus rung left handed twice the time as my right hand... it's been that way for a decade. It really isn't a big deal.
Also, my right hand has had about ten finger injuries vs one in my left over 15 yrs, go figure.
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kenr
Oct 7, 2013, 10:51 PM
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It's not a big concern for climbing to have one hand stronger. There's different kinds of strength, so the two hands might be more evenly matched for some kinds than others.
I suggest for the future, try to make each hand as strong as that hand can be - (in the kinds of strength which are important for your favorite climbing).
As you get into higher difficulty routes and problems, there's not going to be much choice about which hand to use for the more strenuous moves, so the two hands will tend to become more similar in strength.
But if not, then you might find that certain problems are easier for you because you've got extra strength on the appropriate side for that move.
Ken
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jacques
Oct 8, 2013, 2:19 PM
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randyhsi wrote: I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand.
To have a side of your body different than the other is natural in human. That means that one side of your body is weaker than the other side. You probably have a feet and leg longer than the other. it is genetic.
You can train in a gym to strengthen your weaker arm. If you do pull up, try to work with a machine or elastic where you can train just one arm at the time. Use your weaker arm first and train the second arm after with the same weight. If you do both arm in the same time, one arm can pull 80 pounds an the other 60. You will pull 140 pounds. You will have unbalance on your back an eventually an injury. With a lot of training, you will pull 70 pounds on each arms.
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kenr
Oct 8, 2013, 11:06 PM
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jacques wrote: If you do both arm in the same time, one arm can pull 80 pounds an the other 60 ... You will have unbalance on your back an eventually an injury.
If that were true that hanging on one arm would surely result in back injuries since it would be 140 on one side and 0 on the other -- yet strong climbers do that all the time.
I do like the idea of isolating a single arm sometimes (or often) during training - (just don't see what it has to do with injury).
Ken
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jacques
Oct 9, 2013, 2:26 AM
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kenr wrote: How does an imbalance in the arm pull lead to a back injury? Ken
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