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Left Hand weaker than right
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randyhsi


Aug 26, 2013, 3:07 PM
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Left Hand weaker than right
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Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more.


shimanilami


Aug 26, 2013, 5:22 PM
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Re: [randyhsi] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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That's odd. I always felt that climbing was a sport that promoted balance, not the opposite.

Perhaps you're favoring your right hand in activities other than climbing - e.g. masturbating. It can be a hard habit to break. (I know I have that problem.)


shockabuku


Aug 26, 2013, 8:38 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
That's odd. I always felt that climbing was a sport that promoted balance, not the opposite.

Perhaps you're favoring your right hand in activities other than climbing - e.g. masturbating. It can be a hard habit to break. (I know I have that problem.)

+1


rocknice2


Aug 27, 2013, 7:50 AM
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Re: [randyhsi] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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randyhsi wrote:
Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more.
Have you tried leading with both hands? Not just your right or left.


5.samadhi


Aug 28, 2013, 6:20 AM
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Re: [randyhsi] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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randyhsi wrote:
Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more.
look to the musculature above the hands, forearm, bicep/tricep, deltoids, infraspinatus, teres minor/major, pectoral. I am wondering if you have an imbalance in those muscles that is causing nerve impingement (which would decrease strength).


rsmillbern


Aug 28, 2013, 6:34 AM
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Re: [randyhsi] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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Is this you??




dynosore


Aug 29, 2013, 7:36 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
randyhsi wrote:
Hey all, I just started climbing around 8 months ago. I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand. How do i fix this? I tried leading w. my left instead of my right, but this just felt really awkward, and no matter how i try to put my force in my left it always feels like I am using my right hand more.
Have you tried leading with both hands? Not just your right or left.

My thoughts exactly Tongue

Leading with one hand sounds like a game you'd play at the climbing gym.


flesh


Oct 7, 2013, 2:53 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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I'm a lefty and my left hand has always been stronger.... I can dead hang a campus rung left handed twice the time as my right hand... it's been that way for a decade. It really isn't a big deal.

Also, my right hand has had about ten finger injuries vs one in my left over 15 yrs, go figure.


kenr


Oct 7, 2013, 3:51 PM
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Re: [randyhsi] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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It's not a big concern for climbing to have one hand stronger. There's different kinds of strength, so the two hands might be more evenly matched for some kinds than others.

I suggest for the future, try to make each hand as strong as that hand can be - (in the kinds of strength which are important for your favorite climbing).

As you get into higher difficulty routes and problems, there's not going to be much choice about which hand to use for the more strenuous moves, so the two hands will tend to become more similar in strength.
But if not, then you might find that certain problems are easier for you because you've got extra strength on the appropriate side for that move.

Ken


jacques


Oct 8, 2013, 7:19 AM
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Re: [randyhsi] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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randyhsi wrote:
I noticed my left hand (non-dominant) is now like a lot weaker than my right hand.

To have a side of your body different than the other is natural in human. That means that one side of your body is weaker than the other side. You probably have a feet and leg longer than the other. it is genetic.

You can train in a gym to strengthen your weaker arm. If you do pull up, try to work with a machine or elastic where you can train just one arm at the time. Use your weaker arm first and train the second arm after with the same weight. If you do both arm in the same time, one arm can pull 80 pounds an the other 60. You will pull 140 pounds. You will have unbalance on your back an eventually an injury. With a lot of training, you will pull 70 pounds on each arms.


kenr


Oct 8, 2013, 4:06 PM
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Re: [jacques] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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jacques wrote:
If you do both arm in the same time, one arm can pull 80 pounds an the other 60 ... You will have unbalance on your back an eventually an injury.
How does an imbalance in the arm pull lead to a back injury?

If that were true that hanging on one arm would surely result in back injuries since it would be 140 on one side and 0 on the other -- yet strong climbers do that all the time.

I do like the idea of isolating a single arm sometimes (or often) during training - (just don't see what it has to do with injury).

Ken


jacques


Oct 8, 2013, 7:26 PM
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Re: [kenr] Left Hand weaker than right [In reply to]
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kenr wrote:
How does an imbalance in the arm pull lead to a back injury?
Ken
I think that you are right. I had some injury in the past because I wasn't training my back correctly. I was very strong in one angle, but weak on an other angle. Mostly muscle stretch when you load to rapidly a muscle who was not strong enough to hold the weight. I never had an injury because my left hand is weaker than my right.


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