|
NickBraun
Aug 27, 2013, 2:03 PM
Post #1 of 14
(6477 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2013
Posts: 10
|
This was my second time at this location and my second try at rope soloing. I am using a GriGri 2 as my main device and a shunt as my backup. I am kinda new to this, so any suggestions or guidance would be awesome. I just want to make sure I am not doing something dumb. Thank you
https://vimeo.com/73203255
|
|
|
|
|
milesenoell
Aug 27, 2013, 2:48 PM
Post #2 of 14
(6450 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
|
All that tending would drive me nuts, and the slack that accumulates when moving through hard sequences where you don't have a free hand is a safety issue in my eyes. Devices like the mini-traxion, microcender, asencion, croll, etc. let the rope run freely and require little to no tending as you climb when set up properly.
|
|
|
|
|
NickBraun
Aug 27, 2013, 4:49 PM
Post #3 of 14
(6422 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2013
Posts: 10
|
I was looking at some type of progress capture pulley like the traxion, but I do not like the gnarly pin teeth on the cam. Seems like that could do some damage to your rope sheath in a moderate fall? Yeah definitely alot of rope tending, but I suppose its just good practice. I would like to find something that feeds smoothly with out constant attention and the risk of shredding a rope from the cam teeth. Ideas would be awesome, Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
milesenoell
Aug 27, 2013, 5:27 PM
Post #4 of 14
(6404 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
|
The micro-cender has ridges rather than teeth which give it the added benefit of slipping slightly under high load to avoid sheathing.
I've been using an Ascencion for years and while it can make the rope a bit fuzzy over time, it feeds so smoothly that you never really have the chance to for any significant shock loading; there's never any real slack in the system to build up impact force. I also use it on my old fat rope rather than on my new skinny lines, so I don't worry much about the wear from the teeth.
|
|
|
|
|
mojomonkey
Aug 27, 2013, 9:09 PM
Post #5 of 14
(6347 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
|
Note that Petzl does not recommend the shunt for use in self belay. Or the gri gri.
There are lots of threads on methods for toprope soloing; you should spend some time reviewing them.
|
|
|
|
|
johnnycarpenter
Aug 27, 2013, 9:12 PM
Post #6 of 14
(6346 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2013
Posts: 1
|
What miles said. Go to the Petzl website and download the guide on solo top roping: http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing/introduction-us
You need redundancy, so two points of attachment, preferably to two ropes each with rock protection at the anchor. The micro-ascender/micro traxion pulley are a sweet combination. Use the micro ascender as your primary progress capture clipped into your belay loop (as miles noted, this is the more rope friendly device) with the microtraxion pulley as the secondary device on a short sling or Purcell. You will need to "tow" the microtraxion with a cord from around your neck. I advise against using a sling to tow, because certain types of falls could injure your neck if the tow cord is too strong to break.
You cannot be too careful soloing. You are alone. No one to see you hanging upside down in your harness after having knocked yourself unconscious. No buddy check. Only you to save you from yourself. Be careful. Then be more careful.
|
|
|
|
|
5.samadhi
Aug 27, 2013, 10:40 PM
Post #7 of 14
(6330 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 31, 2011
Posts: 98
|
what is your goal out of curiosity? Why not just boulder?
|
|
|
|
|
NickBraun
Aug 30, 2013, 4:09 AM
Post #8 of 14
(6226 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2013
Posts: 10
|
No real goal besides climbing routes by myself, and learning new techniques.
|
|
|
|
|
avalon420
Aug 30, 2013, 12:40 PM
Post #9 of 14
(6194 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 281
|
johnnycarpenter wrote: What miles said. Go to the Petzl website and download the guide on solo top roping: http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/product-experience/self-belay-solo-climbing/introduction-us You need redundancy, so two points of attachment, preferably to two ropes each with rock protection at the anchor. The micro-ascender/micro traxion pulley are a sweet combination. Use the micro ascender as your primary progress capture clipped into your belay loop (as miles noted, this is the more rope friendly device) with the microtraxion pulley as the secondary device on a short sling or Purcell. You will need to "tow" the microtraxion with a cord from around your neck. I advise against using a sling to tow, because certain types of falls could injure your neck if the tow cord is too strong to break. You cannot be too careful soloing. You are alone. No one to see you hanging upside down in your harness after having knocked yourself unconscious. No buddy check. Only you to save you from yourself. Be careful. Then be more careful.
|
|
|
|
|
gunkiemike
Aug 31, 2013, 1:44 PM
Post #11 of 14
(6084 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
|
mojomonkey wrote: There are lots of threads on methods for toprope soloing; you should spend some time reviewing them.
On this site alone:
"Your search for toprope solo returned 634 results"
Probably 1000 more elsewhere. Do some reading.
|
|
|
|
|
Stone0826
Sep 1, 2013, 2:30 AM
Post #12 of 14
(6029 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2012
Posts: 27
|
Get yourself a rope bucket and throw your hiking boots in there. This will give you enough weight for the rope to feed through the gri gri by itself. That'll save you a lot of time and effort. A cheap and easy way I've seen a shit load of people do it. It works great but I just usually use a belayer.... But I have freinds so... that's gear you just can't buy so best of wishes bro.
|
|
|
|
|
mikeyboyaz
Sep 8, 2013, 6:20 PM
Post #13 of 14
(5767 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2013
Posts: 10
|
mojomonkey wrote: Note that Petzl does not recommend the shunt for use in self belay. Or the gri gri. There are lots of threads on methods for toprope soloing; you should spend some time reviewing them.
The petzl site is an excellent reference for configuring a safe solo TR system. I also agree that the GRIGRI2 sucks for feeding a solo TR. I personally use the Micro-Traxion and Microcender with two ropes (per suggestion) it works well and feeds smoothly. I, like many, use the extra rope to make a weight; it's plenty heavy and doesn't mind bouncing off the rocks softly at the bottom.
As far as necks are concerned, taking a double sling and crossing it on your back and over the shoulders (and under armpits) meeting at your chest is easy and not uncomfortable. This allows you to keep slack out of the progress capturing device to your harness without risking your neck.
|
|
|
|
|
markc
Sep 9, 2013, 7:29 PM
Post #14 of 14
(5670 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481
|
Stone0826 wrote: Get yourself a rope bucket and throw your hiking boots in there. This will give you enough weight for the rope to feed through the gri gri by itself. That'll save you a lot of time and effort. A cheap and easy way I've seen a shit load of people do it. It works great but I just usually use a belayer.... But I have freinds so... that's gear you just can't buy so best of wishes bro.
I've used another type of autolocking belay device, and found that weighing the rope slightly makes a big difference for feeding. I tie a figure-8 on a bight and clip my pack to it. The entire weight of the pack isn't on the rope, just enough to provide sufficient tension.
For a backup, I use a pre-knotted strand that I can clip into. The device minds itself, and I'm just clipping and unclipping biners every so often. It's slightly more fiddly than sport, but not as involved as this. If I want to repeat sections or climb the route again, I unclip the backup and rappel down. With routes under a half rope-length, you can clip a figure-8 on a bight in the middle and use the strands independently.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
. But on a serious note, I know more people who've been hurt bad bouldering alone, than soloing (roped or not). 
