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Leaving rope in the first draw
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noblige


Sep 2, 2013, 10:11 PM
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Leaving rope in the first draw
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So, I stick clipped the first draw, climbed a route and being lowered. Is there a trick to leave the rope in the first draw when it's being pulled down, so my partner can climb with first bolt preclipped as well?
Even if I pull rope down slowly, weight of the rope just pulls it out of the first draw.
Thanks!


jt512


Sep 2, 2013, 10:41 PM
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Re: [noblige] Leaving rope in the first draw [In reply to]
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noblige wrote:
So, I stick clipped the first draw, climbed a route and being lowered. Is there a trick to leave the rope in the first draw when it's being pulled down, so my partner can climb with first bolt preclipped as well?
Even if I pull rope down slowly, weight of the rope just pulls it out of the first draw.
Thanks!

There are at least two such tricks.

1. While you are being lowered, unclip the rope from the two or three bolts above the first bolt. Then, from the ground, pull the rope from the end going through the first bolt. The rope will remain clipped into the first bolt.

2. Lower normally. From the ground, use your stick clip to hook the rope above the first bolt and pull down a loop of rope. Once the loop is in reach, continue pulling the "long" end of the rope, that is, the end of the rope that goes through the shuts. You will end up with the rope through just the first bolt.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Sep 2, 2013, 10:45 PM)


noblige


Sep 3, 2013, 8:28 AM
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Re: [jt512] Leaving rope in the first draw [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
noblige wrote:
So, I stick clipped the first draw, climbed a route and being lowered. Is there a trick to leave the rope in the first draw when it's being pulled down, so my partner can climb with first bolt preclipped as well?
Even if I pull rope down slowly, weight of the rope just pulls it out of the first draw.
Thanks!

There are at least two such tricks.

Thank you!


walkonyourhands


Sep 3, 2013, 1:49 PM
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Re: [noblige] Leaving rope in the first draw [In reply to]
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One more: When being lowered, unclip the rope from the first draw and clip your strand to the first draw instead (You might have to tram in overhanging terrain). Then pull from your end.


noblige


Sep 3, 2013, 1:57 PM
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Re: [walkonyourhands] Leaving rope in the first draw [In reply to]
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walkonyourhands wrote:
One more: When being lowered, unclip the rope from the first draw and clip your strand to the first draw instead (You might have to tram in overhanging terrain). Then pull from your end.
Neat! Thanks, I really liked that one


markcarlson


Sep 3, 2013, 4:46 PM
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Re: [noblige] Leaving rope in the first draw [In reply to]
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noblige wrote:
walkonyourhands wrote:
One more: When being lowered, unclip the rope from the first draw and clip your strand to the first draw instead (You might have to tram in overhanging terrain). Then pull from your end.
Neat! Thanks, I really liked that one

Edit: I misread the suggestion. Good one!


(This post was edited by markcarlson on Sep 3, 2013, 4:54 PM)


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