Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis:
Climber fell 40-60 feet while repelling
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Danxz


Sep 3, 2013, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2013
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Re: [bearbreeder] Climber fell 40-60 feet while repelling [In reply to]
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I do whatever is best for the situation.


patto


Sep 3, 2013, 5:43 AM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2005
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Re: [Danxz] Climber fell 40-60 feet while repelling [In reply to]
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Danxz wrote:
An autoblock or autolock simply adds to safety.
The evidence for this is not particularly compelling.

Many times autoblocks are used totally inappropriately. Even this thread has descriptions of flawed autoblock usage. A non functional backup is less safe that no backup.

The evidence for autolocking belay devices don't seem particularly better either. There have been countless noob mistakes with grigris, in no small part due to the complacency they breed.


dagibbs


Sep 3, 2013, 7:33 AM
Post #53 of 55 (976 views)
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Registered: Sep 30, 2007
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Re: [Danxz] Climber fell 40-60 feet while repelling [In reply to]
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Danxz wrote:
climbers who have died making stupid errors. Anything that adds to safety is worthwhile ... unless you some idiot who wants to die.

Just about every absolute statement is false. Especially on the internet.

All safety choices are about balancing costs and advantages. If you truly believed that "anything that adds to safety..." that anything would be to not go rock climbing, since that would increase your safety. Also, you would never get in a car and drive on the public roads, or...


wonderwoman


Sep 3, 2013, 1:37 PM
Post #54 of 55 (949 views)
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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Re: [patto] Climber fell 40-60 feet while repelling [In reply to]
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patto wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:
Personally, I set up my autobloc on my brake hand side. If I were to lose control, my cord would eventually jam up my rap device, preventing me from going further.

That is idiotic.

Your rap device might not jam, if often doesn't. In which case you have no backup. If you are going to use an autobloc, for gods sake make sure it works reliably.

My autobloc works reliably. Thanks for your concern, though.


bearbreeder


Sep 3, 2013, 2:38 PM
Post #55 of 55 (938 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
Posts: 1960

Re: [Danxz] Climber fell 40-60 feet while repelling [In reply to]
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Danxz wrote:
I do whatever is best for the situation.

nonsense ... if yr gonna claim to be "safe" ... then you should always use an assisted locking device properly

even if you ignore belayer failure ... rockfall is a very serious concern

its the same reason why yr using a prussik on rap

Tongue

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