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First time to the Red
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cpowers15


Sep 9, 2013, 12:39 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2012
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First time to the Red
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We started the trip in Muir Valley on Mona Lisa Crack (5.8-). There is a brief crack at the base of the route followed by a large jug and some pretty large holds most of the way up. At the anchors there is a pretty decent throw (for this route) for the final move and to clip.



While at the Practice Wall we also climbed Crescendo (5.8+) which had a couple great moves to get to the first clip and we attempted Beta Spewer (5.10b). It was slightly harder than we were expecting. After the first clip the move seemed slightly committing and no one wanted to deck to start our first day. So that one has been chalked up in the "To-Do" column. This area got crowded pretty quickly so we headed over to the Bruise Brothers wall and did a few shorter climbs while parties wrapped up on some of the taller routes.

CH4 (5.7)


The Offering (5.7)


We also climbed A-Beano (5.8-) and then managed to get on Rat Stew (5.10a). The party before us already had a top rope set and rather than have them go up, clean it, and then lead it, they offered to use their rope so we obliged. Other than the slabby start I really enjoyed getting on something a little harder.

Send Me On My Way (5.9-)


All in all, I really liked Muir Valley and the labels on the base of the routes made it incredibly easy to know what you were getting into.

After climbing these two routes it started to rain and we were pretty pooped as it was and decided to head back to home base. After stopping by the cabin at Lago Linda we hit up Migeul's to refuel.



I would definitely recommend Lago Linda as a place to stay if you'd like a cabin (or to camp) and don't want to deal with crowds of people. They have nice little pond with a canoe and a couple paddle-boats that you are more than welcome to use, as long as you put them back where you found them.








cpowers15


Sep 9, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Re: [cpowers15] First time to the Red [In reply to]
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On Day 2 we ventured into PMRP and started at the Golden Coast. We began here with 7/11 (5.7) which turned out to be a little harder than we expected. The face of the route is fairly blank, but there is a large crack on the side of the route. This makes for easy moves in the crack, but difficulty when it comes to reaching the clips on the face





Next up was Lugky Duck Soup (5.5). This mostly slab climb was probably a little less fun than most of the routes at the Bruise Brothers wall we loved on the day before, but it was good to mix up the style a little bit.







Our energy was quickly running out, but we wanted to do at least one more route before we took off. Our group of 5 took a while to get thru each area, but The Crossroads was next.

Here we jumped onto Love Potion #9 (5.9). This route was awesome with great hands and good moves until halfway up the wall when you were left with nothing but slopers. After creeping thru that segment, the holds turned back to jugs all the way up to the anchors.






gblauer
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Sep 9, 2013, 3:42 PM
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Re: [cpowers15] First time to the Red [In reply to]
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sounds like you had a lot of fun. Nice photos.

I love the Red.


dagibbs


Sep 9, 2013, 7:36 PM
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Re: [cpowers15] First time to the Red [In reply to]
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Sounds like a good trip. I need to get down to The Red sometime.


cpowers15


Sep 10, 2013, 6:39 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] First time to the Red [In reply to]
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Thanks! It definitely was a great time and I can't wait to get back down there


Partner cracklover


Sep 10, 2013, 9:11 AM
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Nice. Especially like the pics. Thanks for sharing.

GO


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