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gblauer
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Sep 10, 2013, 7:25 PM
Post #1 of 8
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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I am taking my first trip to the Dacks in a couple of weeks. I am seeking route recommendations for Day 1 climbing (will be arriving in the noonish range) and then for the 4 days following. Grades up to and including 5.10+, all styles of climbing. Would like to minimize the hiking in order to maximize the climbing. Although will hike in for something really special.
Thoughts? Recommendations?
Thanks for your help.
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rocknice2
Sep 10, 2013, 9:22 PM
Post #2 of 8
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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Day one hit Beer Walls or Pitchoff Chimney. Easy approach with nice warmups and harder..
Best wall are Poko for 5.9 and 5.10. Fastest Gun is a must, Great Dihedral, Bloody Mary and Gamesmanship.
Don't miss Spiders Web for ass kicking crack climbing. If you can go to Moss Cliff, its got some of the best rock in the park.
You could probably spend all 4 days at Poko but don't miss Spider's.
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boymeetsrock
Sep 11, 2013, 4:23 PM
Post #3 of 8
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
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Good suggestions above and I'll second them.
Start a Beer Walls. 3 walls with great routs in the rage stated. Great 2 pitch climbs on lower beer wall.
Across the road are spiders web and also washbowl. A few classics in your range on washbowl. I've always wanted to do partition. Looks pretty sweet.
Poko is awesome IMO. I love gamesmanship although a lot of people slag on it. Bloody mary and fasted gun are highly recommended.
Also check out barkeater cliffs for high concentration of quality routes.
That should fill your time pretty well! Have fun!
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dagibbs
Sep 13, 2013, 11:14 PM
Post #4 of 8
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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gblauer wrote: I am taking my first trip to the Dacks in a couple of weeks. I am seeking route recommendations for Day 1 climbing (will be arriving in the noonish range) and then for the 4 days following. Grades up to and including 5.10+, all styles of climbing. Would like to minimize the hiking in order to maximize the climbing. Although will hike in for something really special. Thoughts? Recommendations? Thanks for your help.
Where are you staying? The 'Dacks aren't a single concentrated linear cliff the way the 'Gunks are. This may bias the choice of climbs.
If you are interested in long (600-800 foot) slab climbs, Chapel Pond Slab has several excellent routes at various difficulty levels, and the approach is about 1 minute. If you finish a run, without time for another, Jewels and Gems is across the road with a 3-5minute approach and a few nice single-pitch routes.
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gblauer
Moderator
Sep 14, 2013, 1:11 AM
Post #5 of 8
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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Right now I do not know where I am staying. Everything is booked. I like your ideas.
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kobaz
Sep 14, 2013, 3:18 AM
Post #6 of 8
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Registered: Sep 19, 2004
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gblauer wrote: Right now I do not know where I am staying. Everything is booked. I like your ideas.
There's always camping.
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gblauer
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Sep 14, 2013, 11:48 AM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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too much effort!
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dagibbs
Sep 15, 2013, 1:10 PM
Post #8 of 8
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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gblauer wrote: too much effort!
(re camping)
That's how I feel, too!
Also, I like comfortable beds.
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