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Umpqua Hot Springs, Oregon / Hwy 138 - nearby climbing?
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teeje


Sep 13, 2013, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2013
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Umpqua Hot Springs, Oregon / Hwy 138 - nearby climbing?
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Climbing camping trip next weekend (21st). What single-rope climbs are near Umpqua? Looked at the list for S.Oregon, and am looking at Callahan's so far.

Would like to visit Honeycombs and Old Man and Old Woman, so we can plan a drive by Crater Lake, but neither have directions or locations to get to them. Any help on these or other locations near 138 would be appreciated.

Thanks!

-- teeje


(This post was edited by teeje on Sep 13, 2013, 2:28 PM)


OneBadStud


Sep 13, 2013, 4:01 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2012
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Re: [teeje] Umpqua Hot Springs, Oregon / Hwy 138 - nearby climbing? [In reply to]
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Old Man is a 5.8 classic, one of the best in the county but it requires two ropes to rappel. You can get by with a single rope at Honeycombs. A mile or so past Rock Creek (just past Idleyld) there's a BLM road on the left, 26-2-7, follow for 3.9 miles and turn right onto an old skid road blocked off by rocks.


g_orton


Sep 21, 2013, 10:09 AM
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Re: [teeje] Umpqua Hot Springs, Oregon / Hwy 138 - nearby climbing? [In reply to]
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Teeje,
First I'd recommend picking up the local guide for the area, 'Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Umpqua'
Then single rope climbs? As the last post said you've just limited yourself to the Callahans, and Honeycombs. Honeycombs is best in the summer.

The Callahans have over 200 routes, mostly single pitch, some multi-pitch and many that are easily accessible by toprope. If this is your interest the local guide has a list of the easily accessible toprope climbs in the appendix. There is now a place to camp in the Callahans for more information call (541) 440-9848, if you are an Access Fund or Mazama member camping is free.

If you really want to get out and explore other Umpqua climbing I'd recommend bringing a second rope so you can also spend time at McKinley Rock, Old Man, Redmans Tooth, Jurassic Park and Acker. All have multi-pitch routes in the 5.8 to 5.10b range. Some recommended moderate routes but, not single pitch) in these areas are HangTen, Testosterone Monkey, Dilley's Delight, Eagle's Dare, the Peregrine Traverse, Battle of the Titans, Sun Dance, and Huevos.

Other recommended areas covered by this series of guides with single pitch routes are Flagstone (Willamette guide), and Rattlesnake, Rabbit Ears, Emigrant Lake, Greensprings (Rogue guide).


(This post was edited by g_orton on Sep 21, 2013, 10:13 AM)


g_orton


Sep 23, 2013, 6:34 AM
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Re: [g_orton] Umpqua Hot Springs, Oregon / Hwy 138 - nearby climbing? [In reply to]
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The gates are again open with access to the top of the Callahans. Typically roads will remain open until around mid March.


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