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help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem!
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ghisino


Oct 3, 2013, 4:31 AM
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help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem!
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Hi everyone, i'm ghisino a crack climbing wannabe from the forest of Fontainebleau, France.

A few days ago a friend brushed and fa'ed some new problems including a 45 OW.
Knowing me as one of the few climbers in the forest who could actually get excited at it, he tagged me on a pic of the problem he published on his fb account.

I immediatly asked where the thing was, and went for a repeat.
After repeating i cheered the first ascensionist, who then asked : "is the grade correct?"
I answered that i couln't really know before a US trip.

Then i thought that it would be funny to troll ask some specialists what V-grade does the problem look like, if you can judge anything from the following lo-def video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HylpunlSoaA

additional info: where i'm reaching far inside the crack, there's two bomber handjams (that i hang from to briefly invert). Hitting the first one just right is not obvious though, as it'a quite a big move!
The short layback at the end is the most strenous part.
The fine-grained sandstone is quite grippy and those having visited both places say HP40 is the closest match on american ground.

so, i encourage you to express your grade guesses!
Won't tell you the first ascensionist grade not to influence you :)

cheers, g


dan2see


Oct 3, 2013, 11:49 AM
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Re: [ghisino] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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The video title is "Camalot#6".
At the end, one of the youtube suggestions includes "Camalot Days 2000". Cool! My mother used to do that!

(Edit because I always hit "Post" before I'm ready.)


(This post was edited by dan2see on Oct 3, 2013, 11:51 AM)


rocknice2


Oct 3, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Re: [dan2see] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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dan2see wrote:
The video title is "Camalot#6".
At the end, one of the youtube suggestions includes "Camalot Days 2000". Cool! My mother used to do that!

(Edit because I always hit "Post" before I'm ready.)

Your mama was a pole dancer in King Arthur's court? Wink


dan2see


Oct 3, 2013, 12:22 PM
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Re: [rocknice2] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
dan2see wrote:
The video title is "Camalot#6".
At the end, one of the youtube suggestions includes "Camalot Days 2000". Cool! My mother used to do that!

(Edit because I always hit "Post" before I'm ready.)

Your mama was a pole dancer in King Arthur's court? Wink

No no! My mother was a belly-dancer!
My father was the refugee from King Arthur's Court.
But I'm the only climber. But there's no way I could manage the off-width in that first video.


petsfed


Oct 3, 2013, 10:35 PM
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Re: [ghisino] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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Its impossible to say since you layback through what would be the most difficult part to crack climb. Which is to say, whatever you felt like it was compared to other Font problems, that's probably accurate for the style you climbed it, which is not at all comparable to an actual offwidth roof.

Keep your legs in the crack, rotate into a knee-lock at the lip, do the situp and stack through that shit, then we can make a guess about the grade.


ghisino


Oct 4, 2013, 3:35 AM
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Re: [petsfed] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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petsfed wrote:
Keep your legs in the crack, rotate into a knee-lock at the lip, do the situp and stack through that shit, then we can make a guess about the grade.

i tried to figure out something like this for about 30 mins, but couldn't get past the stage where i had both feet in (a mix of being a total punter at it, the crack being slimier the deeper you got in it, and fear of falling head first)

at least i did better than the FA, who didn't even see the handjams and grabbed a shitty slopey crimper instead...


petsfed


Oct 7, 2013, 11:10 AM
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Re: [ghisino] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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Good spotters will go a long way towards addressing the head-first fall. Sounds like the crack needs some cleaning too.

Like I said though, the way you climb the crack means that your grade will be pretty accurate because it didn't involve techniques you don't have much familiarity with.


sittingduck


Oct 7, 2013, 1:01 PM
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Re: [ghisino] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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I'm guessing it's not V7?


5.samadhi


Oct 13, 2013, 7:03 AM
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Re: [sittingduck] help clueless euros grade a wide crack problem! [In reply to]
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looks 5.11


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