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tessien
Oct 8, 2013, 5:20 AM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2011
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I've had this problems pretty much continually for the last 2 years.
When I crimp down on a small enough hold the middle knuckle on my left hand middle finger gets painful and sore, and remains that way for several days thereafter. All the rest of my fingers feel fine working crimps.
I've given the problem as much as 6 months off, and when returning to climbing it springs right back up again.
The knuckle appears to be somewhat larger than the same knuckle on my right hand, and is tender to the touch.
Anyone had any success recovering from an injury like this? I really thought 6 months of rest would help it.
Edit: Meant to put this in the injury treatment/prevention area.
(This post was edited by tessien on Oct 8, 2013, 5:21 AM)
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AdGrenoble
Oct 11, 2013, 10:29 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2013
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How fast does it come back when you start climbing again?
The tendons in the fingers are tiny and receive very little blood so they heal very slowly.
If you don't do anything for 6 months, they'll get even weaker than before.
It won't be quick, but if you want to be climbing strong in a few years, start from crimping the lowest your finger can handle and build from there. In my personal experience dealing with this, a day of soreness is fine but not more.
You can do pullups from finger webbing in the meantime so you can take away the problem finger.
Finally, in my own middle knuckle injury, I could still campus open handed with very little pain (but could not hang at all while crimping until it healed).
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tessien
Nov 2, 2013, 12:23 AM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2011
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If I start crimping it comes back almost immediately. If I avoid that and climb on jugs and slopers it feels pretty much ok. I don't do any campusing at the moment.n Pull-ups on a regular pull-up bar feel fine.
Thanks for the advice.
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