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Northeastern Climber's Ethics
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PNew


Oct 21, 2013, 4:20 PM
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Northeastern Climber's Ethics
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Hi everyone,

I am doing a research study through my school to find out how fixed protection impacts user experience in the northeast. If you could give me a few minutes of your time fill out my survey (it's only 10 questions!)that would be great!

Thanks!

Survey found below.

<a href="http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/67NC936">Click here to take survey</a>

http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/67NC936


(This post was edited by PNew on Oct 21, 2013, 4:30 PM)


gblauer
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Oct 21, 2013, 6:22 PM
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Re: [PNew] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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Survey found below.

http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/67NC936


(This post was edited by gblauer on Oct 21, 2013, 6:25 PM)


Partner rgold


Oct 21, 2013, 6:50 PM
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Re: [PNew] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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The available responses are totally inadequate.


edge


Oct 21, 2013, 7:01 PM
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Re: [rgold] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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rgold wrote:
The available responses are totally inadequate.


98% of the surveys presented on this site are:
A) Ridiculous
B) Poorly thought out
C) Worthless for the intended purpose
D) Pancakes
E) All of the above


skelldify


Oct 22, 2013, 10:57 AM
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Re: [PNew] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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These questions need to be addresses on an area-by-area basis.

A lot of people would be pretty pissed if someone bolted the crap out of a route at the Gunks.

But in some parts of the country, they bolt every little chosspile that exists, and no one cares.


Partner cracklover


Oct 22, 2013, 4:58 PM
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Re: [PNew] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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PNew wrote:
Hi everyone,

I am doing a research study through my school to find out how fixed protection impacts user experience in the northeast. If you could give me a few minutes of your time fill out my survey (it's only 10 questions!)that would be great!

Thanks!

Survey found below.

<a href="http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/67NC936">Click here to take survey</a>

http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/67NC936

Wow, terrible poll. I really tried to fill it out, but I'm sorry, I'm just not an extremist who sees everything as one size fits all.

Good luck,

GO


JimC


Oct 23, 2013, 6:18 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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Yeah, sorry... The answer to most of those are... It depends. Context is everything.


jacques


Oct 26, 2013, 10:27 AM
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Re: [PNew] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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PNew wrote:
how fixed protection impacts user experience in the northeast.

As a first study, it is interesting. Statistic is good, but easy to manipulate. One of your assumption is that there is a difference between trad and sport...and bolt is that difference. This assumption is not really true. There is an evolution on the kind of protection (clean: rock with a sling, stopper, hex, tricam, cam; not clean: piton, bolt). In fact the difference is that the older climber, as they have to drive the piton inside the rock, try to place as less pro as they can to be safe...and the gym climber who have a pro at each five or six feet and have the impression that they are not in top rope, even if they fall the same distance than in top rope.

After a while, you will understand that a third group, some very great climber, like to climb many move of high intensity in a short laps of time. They are interested by the move and not by the route (personal opinion). Whatever is the protection, the goal is to go to the top...and to go to an other problem. Bolt or pro have no interest for them, but competition. They like that people around qualify them as a good climber (personal opinion...I am wrong on this one...don't know to how far).

So, as you don't define what his the user experience...it is hard to make a link between the protection and the climber. Further more, I don't like to have a bolt in a 5.7 run out in a 5.9 route. I think that if you can't climb a run out in 5.7...maybe you are not qualify to climb a 5.9. An other situation is when the crux is a 5.8 run out and the route is grade 5.10. Using a bolt diminish the grade to 5.8. It is unpleasant. Finally, a real five ten run out, when someone is close to his limit and the danger of a fall with good technique is dangerous is insane.

Maybe the answer you got was not as good as you which. I think that your perception of climbing will be greater in the future. I remember that I did a survey like that with animal in a veterinary hospital. keep go on


(This post was edited by jacques on Oct 26, 2013, 9:20 PM)


Ruff_Dog


Oct 30, 2013, 3:57 PM
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Re: [edge] Northeastern Climber's Ethics [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
rgold wrote:
The available responses are totally inadequate.


98% of the surveys presented on this site are:
A) Ridiculous
B) Poorly thought out
C) Worthless for the intended purpose
D) Pancakes
E) All of the above

Because you made a multiple choice list, I must respond...
If you've ever read the book "Freakonomics," this one guy, Sid Venkatesh, was doing something for his graduate degree in Economics. He had to go poll this housing project. And he had questions which were all answered with multiple choice answers. Well, Venkatesh goes to talk to this gang in the housing project and he finds out the answer is "F*** you." That's how I feel when I see these polls.


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