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granite_grrl
Oct 27, 2013, 9:29 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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I'm in the market for a new belay jacket. I have spent too many hours sitting in 0 degree weather belaying. I would have posted this in gear heads, except that guys don't seem to get as cold as us ladies and their recommendations for a "really warm jacket" can be almost anything.
I've been looking at the Rad stuff. The Neutrino Plus looks like it would fit the bill. Comments?
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kiwiprincess
Oct 28, 2013, 9:51 PM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2007
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I have 2
A really warm Down massive Marmot thing for belaying Single pitch and a smaller Synthetic one for belaying on multi pitch where I want it to pack smaller in my pack to climb and it is more likely to get wet.
I'm usually a small but have bought a medium that will do up over my harness and the hood will go over my helmet.
I like a hood that you can move your head around in and some nice soft cosy fabric around the nose chin so you don't get chaffed. A reversible zip so you can belay out ther Zip is good too.
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granite_grrl
Oct 29, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Thanks for the good info Kiwi, but all I'm really looking for is information on jackets that are stupid warm.
To put it in context, I have belayed my husband on his one mega-proj for at least 2-3 hours, in at least -20C (which is just below 0F), but likely colder, in the coldest shadiest corner of the crag. Typical configuration is for me to wear two pairs of long underwear, 5 layers on my top, my old NF 700 fill down jacket AND his aging Patagonia DAS and I'm still fucking freezing.
Now I understand to get the warmth I really want I'd need to go with an expidition jacket, or a full down suit, but I'm still going to go with a more typical down jacket. A hood is a must (should have mentioned that at the start), but beyond that it seems almost impossible to compare the warmth of jackets online.
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macherry
Oct 29, 2013, 3:21 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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patagucci is selling a belaly specific down parka for women, but at 700 bucks american....thats fucking nuts.
i have a great cloudveil down parka, sorry that they don't make them any more. super warm and light.
i do like my old mountain hardwear down comfy and warm, their down parkas with hood are pretty warm.too they might even be closing them out on sierra trading post right now.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 29, 2013, 3:31 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: Thanks for the good info Kiwi, but all I'm really looking for is information on jackets that are stupid warm. To put it in context, I have belayed my husband on his one mega-proj for at least 2-3 hours, in at least -20C (which is just below 0F), but likely colder, in the coldest shadiest corner of the crag. Typical configuration is for me to wear two pairs of long underwear, 5 layers on my top, my old NF 700 fill down jacket AND his aging Patagonia DAS and I'm still fucking freezing. Now I understand to get the warmth I really want I'd need to go with an expidition jacket, or a full down suit, but I'm still going to go with a more typical down jacket. A hood is a must (should have mentioned that at the start), but beyond that it seems almost impossible to compare the warmth of jackets online.
I have no experience with ice climbing/belaying, as you know, but from my non-climbing cold-weather experience, it seems that there is only so much you can expect any jacket to do, when you are hanging out practically immobile for hours. Are you also using hand-warmers, foot-warmers, hot water bottle, etc?
At the very minimum, look for 800 or 800+ fill. It is going to be warmer than 700 for the same amount of weight( the key though will be to look at the weight of the down fill, not just the fill number)
Look in men's jackets, too. You are tall enough, and men's jackets/parkas tend to be longer, which, IMO, makes them warmer.
Also, I don't know if it is sold in Canada, but MontBell parka (Mirage, I think? it was a men's jacket) was the warmest parka I have ever personally seen.
And finally, for better-than-nothing online comparison, this palace is a good starting point:
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/...;ogl_search_marker=1
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granite_grrl
Oct 29, 2013, 4:42 PM
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lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Thanks for the good info Kiwi, but all I'm really looking for is information on jackets that are stupid warm. To put it in context, I have belayed my husband on his one mega-proj for at least 2-3 hours, in at least -20C (which is just below 0F), but likely colder, in the coldest shadiest corner of the crag. Typical configuration is for me to wear two pairs of long underwear, 5 layers on my top, my old NF 700 fill down jacket AND his aging Patagonia DAS and I'm still fucking freezing. Now I understand to get the warmth I really want I'd need to go with an expidition jacket, or a full down suit, but I'm still going to go with a more typical down jacket. A hood is a must (should have mentioned that at the start), but beyond that it seems almost impossible to compare the warmth of jackets online. I have no experience with ice climbing/belaying, as you know, but from my non-climbing cold-weather experience, it seems that there is only so much you can expect any jacket to do, when you are hanging out practically immobile for hours. Are you also using hand-warmers, foot-warmers, hot water bottle, etc? At the very minimum, look for 800 or 800+ fill. It is going to be warmer than 700 for the same amount of weight( the key though will be to look at the weight of the down fill, not just the fill number) Look in men's jackets, too. You are tall enough, and men's jackets/parkas tend to be longer, which, IMO, makes them warmer. Also, I don't know if it is sold in Canada, but MontBell parka (Mirage, I think? it was a men's jacket) was the warmest parka I have ever personally seen. And finally, for better-than-nothing online comparison, this palace is a good starting point: http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/...;ogl_search_marker=1
As for the length thing, I was amazed at how many parkas say they're higher cut for easier harness access. Obviously not what I'm looking for.
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lkeegan
Oct 30, 2013, 3:37 AM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2009
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I have a really awesome one from MTN Hardwear. You can try it out this season/earlier if you want.
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dr_feelgood
Nov 16, 2013, 4:51 PM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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granite_grrl wrote: lena_chita wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Thanks for the good info Kiwi, but all I'm really looking for is information on jackets that are stupid warm. To put it in context, I have belayed my husband on his one mega-proj for at least 2-3 hours, in at least -20C (which is just below 0F), but likely colder, in the coldest shadiest corner of the crag. Typical configuration is for me to wear two pairs of long underwear, 5 layers on my top, my old NF 700 fill down jacket AND his aging Patagonia DAS and I'm still fucking freezing. Now I understand to get the warmth I really want I'd need to go with an expidition jacket, or a full down suit, but I'm still going to go with a more typical down jacket. A hood is a must (should have mentioned that at the start), but beyond that it seems almost impossible to compare the warmth of jackets online. I have no experience with ice climbing/belaying, as you know, but from my non-climbing cold-weather experience, it seems that there is only so much you can expect any jacket to do, when you are hanging out practically immobile for hours. Are you also using hand-warmers, foot-warmers, hot water bottle, etc? At the very minimum, look for 800 or 800+ fill. It is going to be warmer than 700 for the same amount of weight( the key though will be to look at the weight of the down fill, not just the fill number) Look in men's jackets, too. You are tall enough, and men's jackets/parkas tend to be longer, which, IMO, makes them warmer. Also, I don't know if it is sold in Canada, but MontBell parka (Mirage, I think? it was a men's jacket) was the warmest parka I have ever personally seen. And finally, for better-than-nothing online comparison, this palace is a good starting point: http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/...;ogl_search_marker=1As for the length thing, I was amazed at how many parkas say they're higher cut for easier harness access. Obviously not what I'm looking for.
When you come visit, we can hit prolite on a rest day and see what they have. We also have the patagucci outlet 2 hours away for a rest day.
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granite_grrl
Nov 20, 2013, 9:20 PM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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thanks everyone! Ended up buying the Rab Neutrino Plus. It's 800 fill with a high fill weight. Other big considerations: cut long, helmet compatable hood and I think the things that sold it was it's box wall construction rather than sewn baffles so no cold spots.
A medium would probably fit if I was trying to look pretty, but I bought at large to fit over all my layers. It was hard to find info about fit in online reviews, so once it arrives I can comment if that was a good idea or not.
(This post was edited by granite_grrl on Nov 20, 2013, 9:21 PM)
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granite_grrl
Dec 27, 2013, 9:03 PM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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granite_grrl wrote: thanks everyone! Ended up buying the Rab Neutrino Plus. It's 800 fill with a high fill weight. Other big considerations: cut long, helmet compatable hood and I think the things that sold it was it's box wall construction rather than sewn baffles so no cold spots. A medium would probably fit if I was trying to look pretty, but I bought at large to fit over all my layers. It was hard to find info about fit in online reviews, so once it arrives I can comment if that was a good idea or not.
Okay, so I had a week to use this jacket in Bozeman, most days below 0F (some getting to -20F when the sun started going down).
This jacket did a pretty good job, WAY warmer than my old down jacket (just a crappy 700 fill North Face, but still). When I first pulled it out I was almost upset at how large it was (ordering a size large, I stand 5'8" and 145lbs). It came almost halfway down my thighs. A fashionable size it was not. But I appreciated the extra size and especially the length when I was out climbing. I sized it for layering and it was good when I had my softshell jacket underneath, but could feel drafts when running around town with only a single layer (like a t-shirt).
The hood was excellent. Fit with my helmet well, kept me warm and cozy. Without a helmet I can cinch it smaller to still work. The two way zipper was also good. Has a button closure at the bottom so I could open it up to belay keeping the drafts down. Outside pockets are large enough for extra gloves and snacks. Inside pockets are enough to stash a camera and keep my wallet and phone.
I got "Beluga" as the colour, which is nicer than a typical black (it's a little softer). I like the pink on the inside, and thought I looked cute with the hood up and a hint of pink around my face. If I could do it again I though I would go with the purple though, but that's just my personal preference.
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granite_grrl
Dec 27, 2013, 9:05 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Oh, and the thing I hated the most is that it comes with a stupid waterproof zipper. It's a freakn' down jacket, so I don't know what they were thinking. Made it hard to operate the zippers with mittens on, but it's getting better the more I use the jacket.
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