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camhead
Oct 29, 2013, 6:05 PM
Post #101327 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: And speaking of weekend report, witnessed someone belaying with their gri-gri clipped to the little plastic gear loop on the side of the harness. She was wearing a jacket, so we only realized that it happened when her climber took, and she twisted around, because of it, and freaked out, obviously. Luckily, the gear loop didn't break, it wasn't a lead fall, just a take at the anchors. And Ed still had his harness on, so he took over belay and lowered him. The guy was white-faced when he was lowered. You could tell he wanted to rip his belayer to peaces, but we were there, and he was restraining himself. And obviously, since he was clearly the more-experienced of the two, it was his fault, too. But I can see how it could go unnoticed bc she was wearing a jacket and her harness was loose enough that it kinda twisted around, to begin with. He checked htat her gri-gri was loaded properly and biner was locked, before he started climbing, but didn't check where it was attached to. Anyway, all is well that ends well. And there was also a hilarious (to the onlookers) argument on one of the 5.9s when the climber asked for a slack to clip the 2nd bolt, after hanging the draw, and his belayer refused to give him slack, because he was in the groundfall territory (correct). So they stood there arguing, because that was better, apparently, than quickly clipping the damned draw. the second story just sounds spectacular. Oh, it was. Picture every accoutrement of sport-climbing gumbyhood-- daisies girth-hitched to the harness and passed between the legs to be clipped in the back, ill-fitted helmet that slides back on the head, several belay devices on the harness, belayer wearing climbing shoes... And then you will get the full flavor of it. was it an overhanging 5.9, such that the climber was getting pumped while the belayer wouldn't give him slack, or was he standing on a ledge? Also, did the belayer have a proposed solution to the issue? Yes, it was an overhanging 5.9. Well, as far as 5.9's are overhanging. The left of the two at the Military wall. And no, the belayer didn't seem to have a solution. She just had a concern, and she was going to fully voice it, too, all other concerns be damned. But at that point every single person who was there made some sort of "don't argue with your climber" and "give him fucking slack already" suggestion, and she relented, while grumbling that it was not right. The draw was successfully clipped. How the climber made it to the top, I am not quite sure, I wasn't standing there watching after that. there was a lot of hanging on each bolt. But Ed did stay behind, and apparently this was not the only bolt on which they had a discussion about whether or not the belayer should give her climber slack, when he asked for it. Jesus fucking Christ. You miss the Red really badly, I can tell.
I'm thinking of taking a trip out there next month, just a quick mon-tues deal, actually. My scorecard has really been falling behind banz's since I started obsessing with Doug Reed sandbags. I need points!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 29, 2013, 6:39 PM
Post #101328 of 105309
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Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: And speaking of weekend report, witnessed someone belaying with their gri-gri clipped to the little plastic gear loop on the side of the harness. She was wearing a jacket, so we only realized that it happened when her climber took, and she twisted around, because of it, and freaked out, obviously. Luckily, the gear loop didn't break, it wasn't a lead fall, just a take at the anchors. And Ed still had his harness on, so he took over belay and lowered him. The guy was white-faced when he was lowered. You could tell he wanted to rip his belayer to peaces, but we were there, and he was restraining himself. And obviously, since he was clearly the more-experienced of the two, it was his fault, too. But I can see how it could go unnoticed bc she was wearing a jacket and her harness was loose enough that it kinda twisted around, to begin with. He checked htat her gri-gri was loaded properly and biner was locked, before he started climbing, but didn't check where it was attached to. Anyway, all is well that ends well. And there was also a hilarious (to the onlookers) argument on one of the 5.9s when the climber asked for a slack to clip the 2nd bolt, after hanging the draw, and his belayer refused to give him slack, because he was in the groundfall territory (correct). So they stood there arguing, because that was better, apparently, than quickly clipping the damned draw. the second story just sounds spectacular. Oh, it was. Picture every accoutrement of sport-climbing gumbyhood-- daisies girth-hitched to the harness and passed between the legs to be clipped in the back, ill-fitted helmet that slides back on the head, several belay devices on the harness, belayer wearing climbing shoes... And then you will get the full flavor of it. was it an overhanging 5.9, such that the climber was getting pumped while the belayer wouldn't give him slack, or was he standing on a ledge? Also, did the belayer have a proposed solution to the issue? Yes, it was an overhanging 5.9. Well, as far as 5.9's are overhanging. The left of the two at the Military wall. And no, the belayer didn't seem to have a solution. She just had a concern, and she was going to fully voice it, too, all other concerns be damned. But at that point every single person who was there made some sort of "don't argue with your climber" and "give him fucking slack already" suggestion, and she relented, while grumbling that it was not right. The draw was successfully clipped. How the climber made it to the top, I am not quite sure, I wasn't standing there watching after that. there was a lot of hanging on each bolt. But Ed did stay behind, and apparently this was not the only bolt on which they had a discussion about whether or not the belayer should give her climber slack, when he asked for it. Jesus fucking Christ. You miss the Red really badly, I can tell. I'm thinking of taking a trip out there next month, just a quick mon-tues deal, actually. My scorecard has really been falling behind banz's since I started obsessing with Doug Reed sandbags. I need points!
Poor you! How sad!
Did I tell you that Shaun did the Force kinda without meaning to, a couple of weeks ago? He wasn't going to try hard, he is hangboarding now, so he was just going to take it easy, but somehow... I think he is setting his sights on UltraPerm now. Manderson will be working stuff at the same crag when he comes, so Shaun is planning ahead.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 31, 2013, 5:42 PM
Post #101329 of 105309
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Two days with no posts. What a disgrace!
I think today would be the first time ever that we will be trick-o-treating at the mall, because of the rain. not that A. carez. She is going with a couple of friends, the girls would be probably happy regardless.
And my son is officially too old for trick-o-treating...
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curt
Oct 31, 2013, 7:00 PM
Post #101330 of 105309
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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lena_chita wrote: Two days with no posts. What a disgrace! I think today would be the first time ever that we will be trick-o-treating at the mall, because of the rain. not that A. carez. She is going with a couple of friends, the girls would be probably happy regardless. And my son is officially too old for trick-o-treating...
The he's old enough to go out with his friends and smash everybody's pumpkins in the street.
Curt
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lena_chita
Moderator
Oct 31, 2013, 8:03 PM
Post #101331 of 105309
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curt wrote: lena_chita wrote: Two days with no posts. What a disgrace! I think today would be the first time ever that we will be trick-o-treating at the mall, because of the rain. not that A. carez. She is going with a couple of friends, the girls would be probably happy regardless. And my son is officially too old for trick-o-treating... The he's old enough to go out with his friends and smash everybody's pumpkins in the street. Curt
Not nearly as fun in the rain, as it could be otherwise. Kids are wimps these days. They only like to smash pumpkins on bright sunny days.
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snoopy138
Nov 1, 2013, 4:59 PM
Post #101332 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
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lena_chita wrote: Two days with no posts. What a disgrace! I think today would be the first time ever that we will be trick-o-treating at the mall, because of the rain. not that A. carez. She is going with a couple of friends, the girls would be probably happy regardless. And my son is officially too old for trick-o-treating...
I went trick-or-treating around town in college once. Halloween always fell during fall break, and the few of us from the fraternity that were still on campus decided to take flasks out and go door-to-door.
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granite_grrl
Nov 1, 2013, 5:39 PM
Post #101333 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out.
I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 1, 2013, 6:00 PM
Post #101334 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm.
I didn't know that you spoke fench. Is is the language that french finches tweet in?
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dr_feelgood
Nov 2, 2013, 12:35 AM
Post #101336 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm.
Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff.
When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch.
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camhead
Nov 2, 2013, 12:43 PM
Post #101337 of 105309
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch.
Be careful mailing stuff. The clamhats (rip) got fucked over mailing a tard rack to squishmash.
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granite_grrl
Nov 2, 2013, 2:55 PM
Post #101338 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch.
We were just thinking we were going to do day trips the entire time....should we be considering camping too?
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granite_grrl
Nov 2, 2013, 2:56 PM
Post #101339 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch. Be careful mailing stuff. The clamhats (rip) got fucked over mailing a tard rack to squishmash.
I'd rather pay extra on the air plane for extra bags. Plus, there's the whole cross boarder issues.
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dr_feelgood
Nov 2, 2013, 7:21 PM
Post #101340 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch. We were just thinking we were going to do day trips the entire time....should we be considering camping too?
If you wanted to do a trip to the beartooths, camping might be nice, but if you just want to stay in Hyalite and the Absarokas(Pine Creek), you won't need camping stuff. I guess I was offering a spare jet-boil or stove or cooler or what have you for hotel comfort.
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dr_feelgood
Nov 2, 2013, 7:22 PM
Post #101341 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch. Be careful mailing stuff. The clamhats (rip) got fucked over mailing a tard rack to squishmash. I'd rather pay extra on the air plane for extra bags. Plus, there's the whole cross boarder issues.
Yeah, isn't it only $25 a bag or so?
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granite_grrl
Nov 2, 2013, 11:46 PM
Post #101342 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch. We were just thinking we were going to do day trips the entire time....should we be considering camping too? If you wanted to do a trip to the beartooths, camping might be nice, but if you just want to stay in Hyalite and the Absarokas(Pine Creek), you won't need camping stuff. I guess I was offering a spare jet-boil or stove or cooler or what have you for hotel comfort.
There's a reason I was so keen on a room with a microwave. We haven't gotten a book for the area yet so other than knowing where Hyalite is generally I don't know what we'll be trying to climb.
We won't have too many nights before the fest, and during the ice fest I'd like to catch as many of the events as possible....kinda the point of getting to a festival like that.
Did I mention I'm getting pretty excited to get out there?
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granite_grrl
Nov 2, 2013, 11:48 PM
Post #101343 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch. Be careful mailing stuff. The clamhats (rip) got fucked over mailing a tard rack to squishmash. I'd rather pay extra on the air plane for extra bags. Plus, there's the whole cross boarder issues. Yeah, isn't it only $25 a bag or so?
$25-30 I think, it just sucks we'll probably have to pay for every bay. Also sucks that we can't bring our important ice climbing stuff with in case they lose our bags (too many pointies).
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dr_feelgood
Nov 3, 2013, 5:20 PM
Post #101344 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch. Be careful mailing stuff. The clamhats (rip) got fucked over mailing a tard rack to squishmash. I'd rather pay extra on the air plane for extra bags. Plus, there's the whole cross boarder issues. Yeah, isn't it only $25 a bag or so? $25-30 I think, it just sucks we'll probably have to pay for every bay. Also sucks that we can't bring our important ice climbing stuff with in case they lose our bags (too many pointies).
Before you get packed, let me see how many serviceable screws I have. Might be able to lighten your load a bit. Can probably leave most of your draws at home as well, unless you are dead set on using screamers as I only have eight.
One thought is to take the picks off of your tools, check the picks, and try to bring the tools on the plane. Or mail a spare set of picks.
Getting pretty excited here too. I picked up a volunteer gig for the comp that gets me free admission to all the nightly events.
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granite_grrl
Nov 4, 2013, 2:03 PM
Post #101345 of 105309
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: granite_grrl wrote: I just booked my hotel for Bozemen. Lewis and Clack. Doc, Nathan is all stressed about trying to get all the gear we need into two bags and out there and keeps talking about driving out. We're going to talk about it this weekend but I may shoot you an email about borrowing stuff if we are both flying out. I also called to reserve a room for Quebec in two weeks. My fench is really slipping, and I have no idea if I actually managed to reserve a room. I just sent them an email with the help of google translate to confirm. Yeah feel free to send a PM. Like I said, you can mail stuff if you want, or we may be able to lend some stuff(snowshoes, other.) I have a spare pack as well. We have camping and cooking stuff for a few people, but not enough to outfit four for winter stuff. When you figure out logistical stuff get in touch. Be careful mailing stuff. The clamhats (rip) got fucked over mailing a tard rack to squishmash. I'd rather pay extra on the air plane for extra bags. Plus, there's the whole cross boarder issues. Yeah, isn't it only $25 a bag or so? $25-30 I think, it just sucks we'll probably have to pay for every bay. Also sucks that we can't bring our important ice climbing stuff with in case they lose our bags (too many pointies). Before you get packed, let me see how many serviceable screws I have. Might be able to lighten your load a bit. Can probably leave most of your draws at home as well, unless you are dead set on using screamers as I only have eight. One thought is to take the picks off of your tools, check the picks, and try to bring the tools on the plane. Or mail a spare set of picks. Getting pretty excited here too. I picked up a volunteer gig for the comp that gets me free admission to all the nightly events.
The ice fest sounds like a really good time out there. Bozeman isn't a small town like Ouray, but it seems people really get into it.
It's also fucking rad to get a week of climbing in the start of December. I norally don't get to take my tools out before christmas.
Taking the tools on my carry on might be a good idea. And if they lose my crampons....well, I kinda need a new set anyway.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Nov 4, 2013, 2:34 PM
Post #101346 of 105309
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All this talk about ice climbing is disgusting!
Gorgeous weekend here. Thanks to unexpected and magnanimous offer from Heffe I got to climb. And I climbed better than I thought I would, given abysmal performance last weekend, but worse than I wanted to climb.
On Saturday I put in 4 goes (well, more like 3.5) on a project that I picked this spring. Rock was perfect, climbing in the sun was a bit too warm, but the sun kept hiding behind the clouds, periodically, so it was perfect climb-in-tank-top-belay-in-down-jacket weather.
I don't know if it will go this season, but it will definitely go. I am linking sections together, and doing much better on the cruxes, but I seem to be missing the E part of PE.
On Sunday we went to Ed's choice. He sent his first 11c (Banshee), I hung the draws for him after he couldn't get through a tricky section on the first go, so sending it on the third go was really awesome. I didn't think it would go that day, based on his first try.
I didn't do nearly as well. It was busy, I couldn't get on the climb I wanted to do. So I hung draws on Galunlati, and hated it. Not the climb-- the draw hanging. The climb is good, but every single draw, even in the easy section was a stupid thing where you have a jug, you have awesome feet... and poop me has to leave the awesome feet and do a pull-up/lock-off to hang the draw, and then relax/fall back down and clip the rope.
Same thing as my project on Saturday though.... I did the crux much better than I have ever done it, in fact it might have been the first time ever that I actually did the crux without first pulling up on the draw below it, but then I struggled with stringing together a bunch of not-that-hard moves.
I think it is time for the neglected 4x4s. I should have done them by now, but we had a boulder league early at the gym this year, so all the walls were stripped and i was setting instead for 3 weeks. But now the league is done, and There are good problems to put together for a 4x4.
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snoopy138
Nov 4, 2013, 5:15 PM
Post #101347 of 105309
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maybe he meant somebody else.
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camhead
Nov 4, 2013, 8:17 PM
Post #101349 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: All this talk about ice climbing is disgusting! Gorgeous weekend here. Thanks to unexpected and magnanimous offer from Heffe I got to climb. And I climbed better than I thought I would, given abysmal performance last weekend, but worse than I wanted to climb. On Saturday I put in 4 goes (well, more like 3.5) on a project that I picked this spring. Rock was perfect, climbing in the sun was a bit too warm, but the sun kept hiding behind the clouds, periodically, so it was perfect climb-in-tank-top-belay-in-down-jacket weather. I don't know if it will go this season, but it will definitely go. I am linking sections together, and doing much better on the cruxes, but I seem to be missing the E part of PE. On Sunday we went to Ed's choice. He sent his first 11c (Banshee), I hung the draws for him after he couldn't get through a tricky section on the first go, so sending it on the third go was really awesome. I didn't think it would go that day, based on his first try. I didn't do nearly as well. It was busy, I couldn't get on the climb I wanted to do. So I hung draws on Galunlati, and hated it. Not the climb-- the draw hanging. The climb is good, but every single draw, even in the easy section was a stupid thing where you have a jug, you have awesome feet... and poop me has to leave the awesome feet and do a pull-up/lock-off to hang the draw, and then relax/fall back down and clip the rope. Same thing as my project on Saturday though.... I did the crux much better than I have ever done it, in fact it might have been the first time ever that I actually did the crux without first pulling up on the draw below it, but then I struggled with stringing together a bunch of not-that-hard moves. I think it is time for the neglected 4x4s. I should have done them by now, but we had a boulder league early at the gym this year, so all the walls were stripped and i was setting instead for 3 weeks. But now the league is done, and There are good problems to put together for a 4x4.
Wait, the Red was crowded? Who knew? And what is the megaprodge? None of this obfuscating modesty!
And galunlati is one of my glory zends; manderson fell on it while hanging draws and then I got the flash.
Not much to report on here. Posting from endless on a beautiful day of 12 aretes, went to a hilarious amateur boxing shindig on Friday, and am stuck in Onehangville with both the megaprodges.
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lena_chita
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Nov 4, 2013, 9:14 PM
Post #101350 of 105309
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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camhead wrote: lena_chita wrote: All this talk about ice climbing is disgusting! Gorgeous weekend here. Thanks to unexpected and magnanimous offer from Heffe I got to climb. And I climbed better than I thought I would, given abysmal performance last weekend, but worse than I wanted to climb. On Saturday I put in 4 goes (well, more like 3.5) on a project that I picked this spring. Rock was perfect, climbing in the sun was a bit too warm, but the sun kept hiding behind the clouds, periodically, so it was perfect climb-in-tank-top-belay-in-down-jacket weather. I don't know if it will go this season, but it will definitely go. I am linking sections together, and doing much better on the cruxes, but I seem to be missing the E part of PE. On Sunday we went to Ed's choice. He sent his first 11c (Banshee), I hung the draws for him after he couldn't get through a tricky section on the first go, so sending it on the third go was really awesome. I didn't think it would go that day, based on his first try. I didn't do nearly as well. It was busy, I couldn't get on the climb I wanted to do. So I hung draws on Galunlati, and hated it. Not the climb-- the draw hanging. The climb is good, but every single draw, even in the easy section was a stupid thing where you have a jug, you have awesome feet... and poop me has to leave the awesome feet and do a pull-up/lock-off to hang the draw, and then relax/fall back down and clip the rope. Same thing as my project on Saturday though.... I did the crux much better than I have ever done it, in fact it might have been the first time ever that I actually did the crux without first pulling up on the draw below it, but then I struggled with stringing together a bunch of not-that-hard moves. I think it is time for the neglected 4x4s. I should have done them by now, but we had a boulder league early at the gym this year, so all the walls were stripped and i was setting instead for 3 weeks. But now the league is done, and There are good problems to put together for a 4x4. Wait, the Red was crowded? Who knew? And what is the megaprodge? None of this obfuscating modesty! And galunlati is one of my glory zends; manderson fell on it while hanging draws and then I got the flash. Not much to report on here. Posting from endless on a beautiful day of 12 aretes, went to a hilarious amateur boxing shindig on Friday, and am stuck in Onehangville with both the megaprodges.
I don't know what you mean by the Red being crowded. The other weekend Shaun and I were the only people at Area 6. Didn't see a soul all day.
Seems to me that you are just trying to accept your campground shackles by insisting that you don't feel shackled at all, and are free to roam... you just don't want to roam any farther than you do. But if you wanted to go to the Red, you totally could...
I didn't feel crowded on Saturday. There were a bunch of people on Stain (teh prodjekt), but it was cycling through really nicely. I never had to sit too long waiting, every time I was done belaying Ed on Tradsucker, and was ready to climb again, it was my turn. I tried it as many times as I wanted (or had ability to try, anyway).
Sunday felt crowded at the Solarium, but it was Ed's choice. And he didn't have to wait in line for his route. There weren't that many more people, really, but somehow the guys on Super Best Friends never let me get in, every time I turned around there was a different group on it, and they would be telling me that there were 3 more people.
I really should have given Galunlati another go. After all the effort it took to hang the draws, I should have. But I was so disgusted at the end of it, and felt that I had no energy left to try again, because I used it all up in the first go. But really, if I had waited an hour, I would have been good to go again. Nobody wanted to get on it all day. (maybe bacause it had no draws hanging, LOL)
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