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HRT training board 4 program
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locosq12


Nov 4, 2013, 3:20 AM
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HRT training board 4 program
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Hello guys, I'm new to this forum and somehow new in climbing (almost 4 years now).
I decided to put a training board in my house and I got the HRT 2-piece training board 4. I am wondering if anyone here has a training program for this board - on the web I could only find for Metolius boards.

Thanks for the help,
Alex


lena_chita
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Nov 4, 2013, 7:20 AM
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Re: [locosq12] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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There is no reason why you couldn't use a Metholius workout on any other training board.

Metholius workout such as this tells you to use a small edge, 3-finger pocket, sloper, etc. You just find similar holds on your own hangboard, and use them, instead.

There are many hangboard workouts out there that can be found by google search. You don't say anything about your climbing goals... maybe you don't have them. This might be a good read for you.


locosq12


Nov 5, 2013, 3:57 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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Thank you for yor comments, I understand what you mean. It was my idea also to addapt the Metolius program if I cannot find some specific HRT 4 routine.

Regarding my goals, I am now climbing some 7a and 7a+ boulder problems which have mostly slopers. I have some problems with routes with mostly crimps, so I thought to start some basic exercises in this direction and see how it works out for me.

I haven't done any special training so far, only the strenght that I got from regular, day to day climbing. I guess it's time to start with some specific training for more difficult problems.


madam


Nov 7, 2013, 2:13 AM
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Re: [locosq12] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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Hi Locosq,
I am almost sure you know this but just in case:
Be very carefull when training for crimps...Try to avoid crimping when training on your board...in other words use open grip as much as possible. The "crimping" power will come hand in hand with your open grip power if hanging on small holds/ledges.

Enjoy your training...

adam


locosq12


Nov 7, 2013, 5:02 AM
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Re: [madam] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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Adam, thanks for the advice.
I already started with the easy program adapted from Metolius, I had my first sessions two days ago. It's difficult to do the pull ups with open hand right now but I am trying to do that as much as possible and hopefully I will addapt soon.


madam


Nov 7, 2013, 5:11 AM
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Re: [locosq12] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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Hi again,

well regarding the pullups there was written quite a few forum entries here (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p;sb=score&mh=25). I mean whether they are good (imrpving your climbing) or not. My opinion is it depends why you do it. If you wanna build shoulder/upper back strength they are probably good (very much depends on the grip you use...the wider the better for back strength). For you forearms...simple hangs are better because you better isolate the muscles used.

adam


locosq12


Nov 7, 2013, 5:27 AM
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Re: [madam] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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I am trying to get some more strenght in my entire upper body, arms included. I will start with one, maximum 2 trainings per week (the easy program) and gratuately switch to the medium one in time.

I know how it is to be injured (I had a ruptured biceps) and I don't want that to happen again, that's 100% sure.

Thanks again.


5.samadhi


Nov 8, 2013, 7:18 AM
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Re: [madam] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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madam wrote:
Hi Locosq,
I am almost sure you know this but just in case:
Be very carefull when training for crimps...Try to avoid crimping when training on your board...in other words use open grip as much as possible. The "crimping" power will come hand in hand with your open grip power if hanging on small holds/ledges.

Enjoy your training...

adam
in other words developing a fear of crimping will help make you stronger at crimping????

I train crimps on my hangboard regularly because...I climb crimps a lot (so I train for it). I climb a lot of slightly overhanging (10-15 degrees) granite face climbs so I encounter crimps every pitch. Why not train a grip that you are encountering during every single crux you climb (if thats the case for you too)?

There is a way with progressive overload to train crimps correctly (taking weight off and progressively taking less and less weight off until you can start slowly ADDING weight.


lena_chita
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Nov 8, 2013, 7:35 AM
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Re: [locosq12] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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locosq12 wrote:
Adam, thanks for the advice.
I already started with the easy program adapted from Metolius, I had my first sessions two days ago. It's difficult to do the pull ups with open hand right now but I am trying to do that as much as possible and hopefully I will addapt soon.

I take it then that you didn't read the link that I posted. Pullups on hangboard, open handed or otherwise, are very over-rated.

For what it's worth, when I first got a hangboard, I used to do Metholius 10 min workout on it. With no specific goal or plan, or schedule in mind. I figured that doing something when I couldn't go climb at the gym was better than nothing. So why not do the 10 min workout? Why not do couple pullups every time I passed by the hangboard? So I did it, but I have never seen any evidence that it resulted in any increased improvement in my climbing. Eventually it got boring, and i stopped.

Then I haven't touched the hangboard in couple years, because for various reasons I did not have a place to mount it and wasn't trying to figure out how to put it up. I had seem slow improvement in my climbing ,no different that I was seeing before, while using the hangboard.

On the other hand, I have seen quantifiable improvement after following Mike Anderson's (rockprodigy) training plan on the hangboard. Which is why I posted the link.

my 2c.


madam


Nov 8, 2013, 8:05 AM
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Re: [5.samadhi] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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Hi samadhi,

obviously you will get better in crimping if you train for it by crimping. The question is: how long your fingers stay healthy.

Excerpt from metholius training program:
How to Grasp the Grips: You want to use an open-handed grip as often as possible. Most climbers are weaker open-handed than crimped, so you may find this difficult at first, but you'll get used to it. Training open-handed will increase your crimp strength (but not vice-versa), and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers, and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch and catching dynos. Most importantly, however, using an open hand lowers the potential for injury. As you adapt to training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge-holding power, but keep it to a minimum.

adam


(This post was edited by madam on Nov 8, 2013, 8:12 AM)


madam


Nov 8, 2013, 8:12 AM
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Re: [locosq12] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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Hi Locosq,

when training for upper body strength I would probably consider doing pullups on horizontal bar.

I would use hangboard for my forearms/fingers strength training.

As said in the rockprodigy training: The best training for a specific group of muscles is to isolate those muscles.

adam


5.samadhi


Nov 9, 2013, 3:37 PM
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Re: [madam] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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madam wrote:
Hi samadhi,

obviously you will get better in crimping if you train for it by crimping. The question is: how long your fingers stay healthy.

Excerpt from metholius training program:
How to Grasp the Grips: You want to use an open-handed grip as often as possible. Most climbers are weaker open-handed than crimped, so you may find this difficult at first, but you'll get used to it. Training open-handed will increase your crimp strength (but not vice-versa), and it is essential for holding pockets, slopers, and certain edges, as well as making moves at maximum stretch and catching dynos. Most importantly, however, using an open hand lowers the potential for injury. As you adapt to training, you can incorporate a little crimp training to increase your maximum edge-holding power, but keep it to a minimum.

adam
I do think you have posted false statements about open-handed training increasing crimp strength but not vice versa. It doesn't make any sense man. What does make sense is a for-profit company telling their clientele not to go full on training crimps (since presumably some if not most will go overboard and injure themselves).

Note this does not mean that training crimping per se will injure you.

You have to take note of the hidden biases (in this case not so hidden) in who is making a statement.


madam


Nov 10, 2013, 2:12 AM
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Re: [5.samadhi] HRT training board 4 program [In reply to]
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Hey samadhi,

ok, I do not take it as dogma (crimping is bad). I DO crimp quite often as well however Locosq was saying he/she just bought a hangboard, therefore I recommended avoid crimping when training. May be more correct would be to say, "Once you are a "fingers strength training beginner" do not use crimps, THEN once you feel confident about your tendons you can slowly start to train crimps as well."

Basically I just wanted to point out that crimps can bring much more possible injuries than open-handed grip.

How do you train for crimps? I mean, Do you just hang, or do you train specific moves and then lock it? Just curious and I think it would add to this discussion. Quite good discussion is here on 8a.nu: http://www.8a.nu/...p;CountryCode=GLOBAL

adam


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