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LethargicMind


Nov 14, 2013, 10:37 AM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2013
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New Shoes
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Boiled down, I need new shoes. I've been climbing for 3 years still rocking my Evolv Geshidos (3 years same shoes). I would consider myself an intermediate climber, best vert 5.11a, best problem V3. I want to get the best shoes possible. My issue is that I realize that everyones' feet are different and everyones' climbing preferences are different. Does anyone have opinions as to brands/models for higher end shoes? Also, where to possibly try on several pairs/brands. My local rock gym, (Adventure Rock) Wisconsin, only carries real popular brands (Evolv, 5.10, La Sportiva) and I know that there are other reputable brands out there. Thanks for your help!


granite_grrl


Nov 14, 2013, 11:59 AM
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Re: [LethargicMind] New Shoes [In reply to]
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How do you feel your Evolvs fit you? Keep in mind that if they're the only shoe you've worn you may still not have a good grasp on a good fit (case in point - I crammed my feet into Anasazi Velcros for a few years before I realized how much better other shoes fit me than those).

I know you were hoping for more specific recomendations, but you would probably bennifit from trying a bunch on. Based on you currently wearing Evolvs I'll wager you'll stick with Evolvs or looks at 5.10s (both wider fitting shoes than something like Sportiva).

As for something "high end", don't get so caught up in the hype. I still wear Katanas for the majority of my climbing and switch over to my Barracudas or Boreal Cruxes when I want something a little more sensative. None of those listed would really be considered "high end" shoes, but they tend to fit my foot well.


rocknice2


Nov 14, 2013, 2:40 PM
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Re: [LethargicMind] New Shoes [In reply to]
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There is no such thing as the best shoe.
First decide what type of climbing you want your shoe to excel in. Don't try on TC Pros if you intend to climb steep boulder problems.
Once you know what category you want, try on every shoe that falls into it.

The best shoe will be the one that fits the best.


Spaztic


Nov 15, 2013, 10:33 AM
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Re: [LethargicMind] New Shoes [In reply to]
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Do you like the Geshidos? Are they worn out? Stretched out?

Given the level you're climbing at, I doubt you'd notice any difference between the Geshidos and what are considered even more performance-oriented shoes. I bought the Geshido lace-ups on clearance as my gym shoes and frankly, I'm super impressed (and somewhat surprised). I've climbed in Miuras (lace), Katanas (velcro), Pontas (lace) and Testasrossas and with exception of the Testes (which are pretty specific-use shoes), I think the Geshidos perform as well, if not better, than the others. I still prefer Vibram rubber, though.

As others have noted, the best shoes are the shoes that fit your feet and otherwise meet your needs. This is obviously going to vary from person to person. At your level, a more neutral shoe is going to be much better than a aggressive shoe.


(This post was edited by Spaztic on Nov 15, 2013, 10:34 AM)


jjanowia


Nov 15, 2013, 10:56 AM
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Re: [LethargicMind] New Shoes [In reply to]
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This is an expensive option, but you could figure out what shoes you're interested in and not stocked by your local gym, and order a few size runs of these models from Zappos or some other internet retailer where you can easily return them. You're gonna end up paying money to return them, but think of it as the cost of being able to try on a variety of shoes.

You didn't ask this, but I advocate having at least 2 or 3 pair of shoes. In the 2-pair model, I have one that is comfortably sized with flat or nearly flat toes. This is good for mileage in the gym, crack climbing, and if it is slip lasted, slabs. For this I use a La Sportiva Mythos, but have also had luck with like a 5.10 Moccasym; almost all 'beginner-oriented' shoes could fit into this range. What I seek is a comfortable fit with nearly flat toes, but no pockets of deadspace.

The second pair I have is stiffer and my toes curl a little more (for me, this is a 5.10 Anasazi VCS, but a LS Muira lace up would work too). The toe isn't aggressively downturned. But the shoe is more powerful around my big toe, and it aids in footwork; the loose fitting shoe I have is less precise. This stiff shoe with a performance fit is better for climbing at or near my limit.

It's gonna be trial and error, and one should accept that. I've tried shoes on that felt great in the store, but I couldn't bear to be in after an hour. I've also tried shoes on, thought "meh", but then climbed in them and it was a revelation.


LethargicMind


Nov 15, 2013, 12:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2013
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Re: [Spaztic] New Shoes [In reply to]
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I like them, and would get the same ones again, but the heel pocket is too big and i get that fart sound every time I shift the weight on my foot. There is also more material in the side of the shoe by the heel than I need. this bunches up and make heel hooking on anything smaller than 2 inches near impossible. I'd like a shoe that's similar with a better heel.


LethargicMind


Nov 15, 2013, 12:38 PM
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Re: [LethargicMind] New Shoes [In reply to]
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I should have mentioned, I like my geshidos, but the heel is too big with too much material that bunches up and makes heel hooking near impossible. I am looking at new shoes for this reason as well as holes worn through the toe and loss of tackiness in the sole.


Pedrolius


Nov 16, 2013, 10:23 AM
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Registered: May 16, 2013
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Re: [granite_grrl] New Shoes [In reply to]
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I just spotted this on reddit (giving credit where credit is due, sorry if it's been posted before). Best new shoe reply I've seen:

"There's a good (unfortunately German) blog covering climbing shoes: http://kletterschuhtest.wordpress.com/...ssform-und-passform/ He has tested a lot of shoes and given his own sizes you can guess what's good for you.
...
Edit: just found out that he has two great pdf's comparing brands and foot types: http://kletterschuhtest.files.wordpress.com/...c3bcc39fe_schuhe.pdf

http://kletterschuhtest.files.wordpress.com/...c3bcc39fe_schuhe.pdf

With the help of google translate you should be able to figure out what you need."

SO useful.
Post the URL into Google translate if you are like me and your German isn't great.


(This post was edited by Pedrolius on Nov 16, 2013, 10:25 AM)


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