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I'm not improving anymore. What training should I do?
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Alexjt011


Nov 17, 2013, 1:54 PM
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I'm not improving anymore. What training should I do?
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Hey, I have been climbing for two years now, and have not been able to climb any V6 routes. I have been able to climb V5s but not V6s. Is this the stage that is hard to pass?!?!

I have never trained. All I do is warm up and climb for fun, and repeat all the problems I can't d (V6+).

My forearms never hurt the day after (although I climb for about 3hrs a day).

I think the problem I have is with finger strength maybe.

What training do you recommend at home and at the gym. I have a pull up bar at home, and am willing to buy a hangboard or grips...

ThanksWink


Scourge


Nov 18, 2013, 5:47 AM
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Re: [Alexjt011] I'm not improving anymore. What training should I do? [In reply to]
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Sounds like it may be about time to give a hangboard workout a try.


sungam


Nov 18, 2013, 7:32 AM
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Re: [Alexjt011] I'm not improving anymore. What training should I do? [In reply to]
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How about some structured training? Maybe you need to read the best article on this site:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html


(This post was edited by sungam on Nov 18, 2013, 7:32 AM)


Partner cracklover


Nov 18, 2013, 8:35 AM
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Re: [Alexjt011] I'm not improving anymore. What training should I do? [In reply to]
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Aren't you the same guy who just mentioned that he hurt himself?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ost=2639021;#2639021

You didn't think that would be relevant?

My guess is that you're trying to pull yourself up everything, and you've reached the limits of your pulleys/tendons. So, I dunno, maybe learning more technique would be useful? Unimpressed

How can we tell from this side of the keyboard?

GO


sungam


Nov 18, 2013, 8:46 AM
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Re: [cracklover] I'm not improving anymore. What training should I do? [In reply to]
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Heh, almost certainly related. Sounds like technique will help but even more so, to reduce injuries, he needs to have controlled training.

To quote the dudebrohamski himself:
Rockprodigy wrote:
Most climbers are "guy A". Their idea of working out is "bouldering", which is essentially haphazard and random exercises of various muscle groups. There is no way to precisely stress the muscle (and supporting structure) to a specified amount, and there is no way to measure or record how much they have been stressed. There is no way to know if you are increasing the intensity or by how much. These "training" sessions often end in a wild dyno for some two finger pocket which the climber has absolutely no idea if he has any business trying to hold onto, then a loud "pop"!

The problem with this "method" (or lack thereof) is that the way to enlarge muscle tissue is to stress it to near failure. In random bouldering, there is no way to know when that is accomplished, but you definitely know when you're past that point (pop!) Furthermore, the supporting structure of the fingers (tendons and ligaments) take up to six years (not a typo) to respond to additional stress. That means, that if you have been climbing for six years, your ligaments may now just be starting to get stronger, whereas your forearm muscles respond in about two weeks. Therefore, your random acts of unkindness to your body are priming your forearm muscles to do major damage to the support structure, with no monitoring whatsoever. A structured training regimen allows the climber to carefully and thoughtfully stress the body enough to cause the desired adaptation without stepping over the line into injury. Aside from giving up climbing for golf, training is the best way to avoid injury!


jbone


Nov 18, 2013, 1:53 PM
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Re: [Alexjt011] I'm not improving anymore. What training should I do? [In reply to]
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The single greatest thing you can do to improve your climbing at any level is to climb with people who are stronger and better than you are.

Harder climbing takes commitment and dedication, they can show you that.


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