IIRC, this is also around when Climbsomething was forced out as a moderator?

I did manage to find that thread though on the wayback machine. Still a good read that never should have been taken down.

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO

Linky?

Yep. IMO, Amber's Fall is one of the most interesting and valuable things to have ever been posted here.

GO

Linky?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;

Linky?

fantastic with her edit saying she'd sue over copyright and someone did, in fact, quote it.

It's a good read and a valuable thread for sure.

Does anyone have a link to the op? After reading all of that I feel I'm missing out!

I think the original thread, along with a lot of superb commentary and insights, was deleted. But here's a link to a post that quoted the OP.

GO

Since you missed it the first time, maybe I need to be more clear? Click on the underlined part. It's a hyperlink. It links to her post. OP = Original Post.

GO


GO

Isn't that the story that a 3rd party said was vastly exaggerated? Like the fall was like 1/8th the claimed length etc.
Gnarly photos though IIRC.

Amber, Tim and everyone else:

Doug and I (shaun) were also there that night. I read Amber's post and about 8 pages of replies and could stand no more. There were several things that I disagree with.

Amber first off, we both want to say how thrilled we are that you are alive and safe. There was a moment when we thought you were going to die. We are so happy that you had the strength and sheer will to live. And after your fall, you kept it together enough to build an emergency anchor and get down safely. It was incredible. That being said, I have a different perspective on the accident and have decided to share it.

From our perch a few feet below Tim at the top of pitch 3, it seemed to us that there were some major red flags that were missed. We sat there on our porta ledge for several hours while Amber finished the pitch and rappelled. Much of it was very tense as Amber and Tim argued over Amber's lack of experience, what to do about the gear that was being left behind, etc. It was a very tense and unenjoyable couple hours listening to you two argue.

Amber, you were on rappel for about two hours before you ran out of rope. You started the rap around dusk (6:30ish) and the accident happened around 9:00. After getting safely to the top of the block you guys spent an hour or more there finally rapped off around 11:00.

I thought you fell about 20 - 30 feet - no more. You basically took a lead fall. As you fell past the piece below you, it became your top anchor. The rope burn occured as the single line rushed through your rap device. Somehow you came to a stop. It was a combination of the friction created by the rope getting caught in the belay device, around your arm, and in your daisy. That's how I remember it.

Anyway, my real focus is Tim.

Tim thought Amber was rapping on two ropes. Fair enough, but why didn't he notice that one of her ropes was moving as she rapped down. If her ropes were truly fixed, they would have been stationary, but one rope was clipped to Amber's haul line and so was lowering as Amber was lowering. Tim should have seen this, especially since he gave at least 2-3 fireman's belays as Amber rapped (to keep her secure while she worked to remove certain pieces of gear). It's incredible that he was actually pulling directly on Amber's haul line, but somehow neither of you noticed.

And finally, Amber was rapping in the dark for about two hours before the accident actually happened. Tim had a flashlight but never offered it to Amber. After an hour and a half or so, we offered one of ours (which ran out of batteries unfortunately). 10 - 15 minutes before the accident Tim told amber (part of all the aguing that was happening) he had done everything he could do for Amber, and that this was her fault for biting off more than she could chew, but he never offered her his headlamp which may have helped significantly.

Why?

Yeah, here was the post I was talking about

Yeah, here was the post I was talking about

Ya know, I read that thread back then and even reposted parts after the attempt to remove it from the net. Frankly, I don't think it needs to be rehashed here. Or, if people feel it necessary, it should really be in a different thread. Anything further on that thoroughly analyzed and dissected incident here just serves to dilute the intent of this thread.

How much work is it going to take to get the news on the landing page updated?
Right now those articles are almost a year old. It drives me insane.

Looks like those are fueled by user submissions. Going to articles I (eventually) found the Submit an article link.

I'd guess that folks aren't generally aware of that feature. There is likely nobody employed to look for and post relevant news. Clicking on a few, they are "submitted by 'admin'", though clicking on the 'admin' user name shows it not to exist.