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CallumKX
Oct 7, 2013, 12:26 PM
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Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me out doing a training schedule or something to help me with bumping my grade up a notch. Im currently doing 6a-6b (5.10a-5.10d) and I my goal is to reach 6c-7a (5.11c/d) by the end of this year. Any input would be great. Thanks in advance
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JAB
Oct 7, 2013, 1:19 PM
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CallumKX wrote: Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me out doing a training schedule or something to help me with bumping my grade up a notch. Im currently doing 6a-6b (5.10a-5.10d) and I my goal is to reach 6c-7a (5.11c/d) by the end of this year. Any input would be great. Thanks in advance
Climb a lot at your limit without getting injured. It's as simple as that.
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5.samadhi
Oct 7, 2013, 1:47 PM
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Use the hangboard 2x a week during the week and onsight stuff at your limit (try to push this) during the weekend. Every once in awhile when you get completely psyched on a route outside of your onsight limit, then start the process of projecting it.
a typical hangboard workout might be:
select 3-4 different grips from 4 finger open, 4 finger crimp, 2 finger middle fingers, 2 finger front fingers (pointer is front pinky is back), 2 finger back fingers, pinch, sloper, jug.
Add or subtract weight (add weight by clipping to harness and subtract weight by setting up a pulley with weight hanging with the other end of rope attached to your belay loop so it pulls up however much weight is hanging off the end). Start very conservatively (start under what you think you can finish).
Do 2-3 sets for each "grip" and hang on for 5-10 seconds taking 4-5 second rest after each hang. Repeat this for 4-8 "reps" for each set (so a 4 rep set would be: hang 10 seconds, rest 4, hang 10, rest 4, hang 10, rest 4, hang 10, rest 4). After these "repeaters" do 2-3 sets of pullups.
Take a short rest after the hangboard workout and do some antagonist weight lifting. Reverse wrist curls, wrist rotations, overhead press with dumbbells, external and internal rotations for your shoulders.
Take at least 72 hours before you climb again after this workout. In the off days during the week do yoga and run and bike to keep your flexibility up and your heart strong.
After doing this 2x/week for 2-3 months then switch up away from the hangboard and boulder at your limit (on plastic or outdoors) hard short problems 2x/week. After 4-6 weeks of this give yourself a rest week and then switch back to hangboarding or switch into working on endurance on routes.
Watch your diet and improve it so that you are getting as many nutrient dense, rich foods as possible. Eat 100-200 grams of protein a day from good sources such as turkey, raw tuna, grassfed beef, organic dairy, chicken, etc. Eat plenty of leafy dark green veggies. Restrict fruit to mornings and postworkout for glycogen replenishment after sleeping and working out. Source a HIGH QUALITY protein powder (ie not from walmart!) that is pure and free of preservatives and artificial sweeteners/dyes. Find one that is a combined milk protein ISOLATE as this will have the best amino acid profile.
Monitor your bodyfat levels (you don't need to weigh or measure your skinfold EVERY day but maybe twice a month is good non-neurotic approach). Aim to get below 12% bodyfat at least (a rough way to measure this is when you pinch your stomach fat this should mean the 'fold' you grab is less than an inch). Do not drop weight so fast you start sacrificing muscle. A good way to preserve muscle mass while dieting down is every 3-4 days have a day that is over your maintenance calories (so if you always ate like that you would actually be GAINING mass). This will result in less of a net loss to bodyfat per week but will also result in replenishing glycogen stores in muscle and also increase your thyroid output which will increase your metablism which will make dieting much much easier.
Make a quiet bedtime routine like meditation or reading so that you can drift asleep peacefully. Plan to give yourself 7-9 hours of sleep (closer to 9 the night after a very hard hangboard workout). Melatonin helps promote deeper sleep.
Drink plenty of water in balance with your electrolyte intake (sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium).
Use an extremely high quality fish oil supplement for joints, muscles, heart, brain.
Literally write down your short, mid, and long-term goals on a piece of paper. Leave it somewhere you can see it for motivation.
Associate with positive people that are mentally uplifting and inspire you to become a better person (not just climbers but anybody that inspires you).
Listen to your body and find the times it is smart to push yourself and also notice the times it is smart to pull back a little and recover.
Find another hobby to keep balance in your life.
Be in the moment and enjoy the process! You only will be here in your journey once.
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5.samadhi
Oct 12, 2013, 12:48 AM
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my awesome post killed this thread.
-end.
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djh860
Nov 24, 2013, 12:55 PM
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Read the self coached climber and do lots of core training and pull ups
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brinosaur
Nov 24, 2013, 3:38 PM
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Advanced training techniques, hangboarding, circuits, diet/holistic medicine voodoo etc are going to be a waste of time at the level you are currently climbing at and would like to progress to. It always amazes me that people recommend this stuff to beginning climbers...
If you haven't broken into 5.11 yet it's most likely because you haven't developed the footwork, routefinding, and resting techniques that come with time. Focused training will always help to a degree, but I'd doubt that a lack of strength is your bottleneck right now.
-Climb with people who have better technique and more experience than yourself.
-Climb laps on routes at your comfortable level of onsight. -Follow leads no more than 2 or 3 letter grades above what you would normally lead on your own.
-Practice a diversity of styles, not just terrain/technique that you are good at (slab vs overhang, crimps vs pinches, cracks, etc).
If all else fails, you can try moving somewhere with softer grades...
(This post was edited by brinosaur on Nov 24, 2013, 3:42 PM)
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spacemonkey07
Nov 25, 2013, 12:14 PM
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Kinda hard to give training advice over the internet.. To give any good advice, I would at least have to know the following:
1. how long have you been climbing?
2. how long (if ever) have you been training to progress?
3. how long have you been stuck at this level?
4. how do you normally train?
5. do you have any insight in what your weak points would be?
6. are you willing to put up any youtube vids to help us analyse what you could do to progress?
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 25, 2013, 1:41 PM
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CallumKX wrote: Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me out doing a training schedule or something to help me with bumping my grade up a notch. Im currently doing 6a-6b (5.10a-5.10d) and I my goal is to reach 6c-7a (5.11c/d) by the end of this year. Any input would be great. Thanks in advance
I am curious if you have made progress in the last three months. The end of the year is a month away.
Generally speaking, there is no substitute for climbing in the earlier grades. Usually, what is holding people back is technique and muscular endurance. I wouldn't advise other training unless, 1. You need to lose weight, or 2. You can't get to a gym. If strength seems to be an issue, try bouldering.
Josh
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CallumKX
Nov 25, 2013, 10:23 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2013
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I have been doing more endurance based climbing rather than redpointing. I start with a traverse, a 10 move 60 degree incline straight to a 5 move roof, down climb a 80 degree incline, move over to the next wall (about 5 moves) then its a choice of an easy traverse to a down climb or another short roof. Then the rest is about 20+ moves on a vertical wall. After resting, I climb a 6a+ route on auto belay until failure. Then finish off with some excercises that samadhi suggested. I can clean most of the 6c climbs I've tried on top rope and a few on lead
(This post was edited by CallumKX on Nov 25, 2013, 10:28 PM)
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