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Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness
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ml_nelson


Nov 29, 2013, 7:51 PM
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Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness
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New to leading, I’ve searched for a way to rack my gear that works for me. I concluded I hate the traditional gear sling. For me, the gear needs to go on my harness, but I struggled with the limited space on the existing 4 gear loops. To make matters worse, the two rear loops are not particularly accessible to the opposing hand (ie; its hard to reach the loop behind my right hip using my left hand).

Realizing that I can always stick either hand into the chalk bag that sits dead center on the rear of my harness, I set out to use that wasted space in the rear. I just need a large gear loop back there to carry those things I can pull off strictly by feel; my batch of identical ‘biners & runners.

To make a large gear loop spanning the unused space in the back;
1.) My supplies were a length of ¼” vinyl tubing and some nylon sash-cord.

2.) I used a wire to pull 4 strands of the cord through the tubing. It takes a hard pull & some coaxing.


3.) I found I could form the bends in the tubing by over-bending it and forcing it to take a set by immersion in boing water.

4.) Finally I assembled the tubing using the existing web-loop that normally carries my chalk bag as a center-support.

5.) I fastened the ends of the tubing to the existing loops with ty-wraps


& secured the cord around the harness.


The final result looks like this.

Attachments: 6-Racked.jpg (79.5 KB)
  1-Hooked.jpg (44.2 KB)
  5-Outside.jpg (67.5 KB)
  3-Tywraped.jpg (57.1 KB)


ncrockclimber


Nov 29, 2013, 9:22 PM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2006
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Re: [ml_nelson] Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness [In reply to]
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Misty Mountain Cadillac = 6 gear loops

they make the best harnesses for trad, period.

http://mistymountain.com/recreational-gear/recreational-harnesses/cadillac-harness.html

http://mistymountain.com/recreational-gear/recreational-harnesses/cadillac-quick-adjust.html


potreroed


Nov 29, 2013, 10:12 PM
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Re: [ncrockclimber] Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness [In reply to]
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All the big wall harnesses that I've seen have that big loop in the back.


ncrockclimber


Nov 30, 2013, 8:17 AM
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Re: [ml_nelson] Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness [In reply to]
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After looking at your pics and reading that you are "new to leading" I am going to throw out a few more pieces of advice.

- rack each cam on a separate carabiner
- I am not sure what the blue cord (purssic?) and orange cord are. whatever it is, you don't need the orange cord. ditch the useless biner-thing that is connecting your chalk bag to your harness and instead use a 5mm cord to make a belt. In a pinch it becomes your prussic.
- get rid of the coordalette. learn to use the rope or the numerous slings you are already carrying.
- get a few nylon slings. they lose much less of their strength when knotted and can therefore be used in more configurations.
- you do not need to cary two belay devices.
- I think you have 6 big locking biners. you can easily get by with 3.
- seriously resist the urge to "gumby innovate." You do not need another gear loop. All of your gear (even without the pruning I recommend) will EASILY fit on the four gear loops on your harness.
- everyone does this different, but my method is to put pro on the front loops and draws and belay device on the back loops. (YMMV)
- get out there and beat that gear up! it is way to shiny!

I wish you the best as you begin lead climbing. Have fun and be safe!


marc801


Nov 30, 2013, 12:00 PM
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Re: [ml_nelson] Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness [In reply to]
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ml_nelson wrote:
New to leading, I’ve searched for a way to rack my gear that works for me. I concluded I hate the traditional gear sling. For me, the gear needs to go on my harness, but I struggled with the limited space on the existing 4 gear loops. To make matters worse, the two rear loops are not particularly accessible to the opposing hand (ie; its hard to reach the loop behind my right hip using my left hand).

Realizing that I can always stick either hand into the chalk bag that sits dead center on the rear of my harness, I set out to use that wasted space in the rear. I just need a large gear loop back there to carry those things I can pull off strictly by feel; my batch of identical ‘biners & runners.

1. Too much crap on your waist/harness
2. Get on some trad off-widths and chimneys and you'll instantly loath anything attached to your harness
3. Prepare to have your partner beat you silly by the 5th pitch on a 12 pitch route where you are swinging leads and minimizing change-over time at the belays is *critical* to not being benighted on the climb.
4. Experienced leaders put their chalk bag on a belt so they can move it around as needed, including putting it in front. Forcing it to stay centered at your rear with your fancy S-biner toy-thingy is anal retentive at best.


marc801


Dec 1, 2013, 8:16 AM
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Re: [ncrockclimber] Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness [In reply to]
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ncrockclimber wrote:
- seriously resist the urge to "gumby innovate." You do not need another gear loop. All of your gear (even without the pruning I recommend) will EASILY fit on the four gear loops on your harness.

+10


ncrockclimber


Dec 1, 2013, 9:42 AM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2006
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Re: [marc801] Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
1. Too much crap on your waist/harness
2. Get on some trad off-widths and chimneys and you'll instantly loath anything attached to your harness
3. Prepare to have your partner beat you silly by the 5th pitch on a 12 pitch route where you are swinging leads and minimizing change-over time at the belays is *critical* to not being benighted on the climb.
4. Experienced leaders put their chalk bag on a belt so they can move it around as needed, including putting it in front. Forcing it to stay centered at your rear with your fancy S-biner toy-thingy is anal retentive at best.

Marc point out some of the advantages of using a gear sling. I don't do a bunch of offwidth climbing, but when I do a gear sling is often part of my rack. IMHO, he is spot on regarding this type of climbing.

Personally, on most climbs I would rather have my gear on my waist than on a sling. I have racked on my waist since the 90's, and unless I have to carry a HUGE aid rack or I am doing an offwidth, I never use a gear sling. I don't think that the reduction in change-over time with a gear sling is significant. In fact, I firmly believe that if you are placing at least 1/2 the rack on each pitch and swapping leads that a shared gear sling slows you down. YMMV, and others have very different opinions on this issue.

Again, however you choose to rack your gear, please take a hard look at how more experienced climbers are doing things. There is a reason that you don't see guys who are climbing 200 days a year using modified harnesses, carrying coordalettes and 6 lockers…

Climb safe and have fun learning to climb above gear!


rocknice2


Dec 2, 2013, 2:47 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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Re: [ml_nelson] Rear Gear Loop add-on for harness [In reply to]
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I recently added a 5th year loop to my harness. Best thing I ever did. I routinely use a double rack to link pitches. I rack gear on the primary loops and draws on the secondary loops, the rear loop I use to rack anchor stuff like cordelette, a few biners, belay device and a belay jacket if it's cool.


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