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Using a grigri to rappel, but not really
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marshallgeo5


Dec 6, 2013, 6:13 PM
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Using a grigri to rappel, but not really
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Say I've set up a solid top rope with a static rope attached to 2 anchors, either trees or pro. After rigging to rappel with an extended ATC and autoblock, I want to know how to safely lower myself below the masterpoint so that my weight is now on my climbing rope. In the past, I have "batmanned" but this is definitely not the best technique.

My guide briefly mentioned that I could use a grigri and excess static rope from my anchor to lower myself down to the masterpoint, but we never got around to trying this. Would it be safe to rig for rappel on my climbing rope with my ATC, and then lower myself on an unused tail of static rope from anchor (making sure to tie a stopper knot) using a grigri? I imagine to control the speed of descent, using some sort of redirect such as the Petzl Freino would help to create friction, but I'd love to get some feedback and to know whether this is a complete misunderstanding of what he mentioned? Thanks all!!


marshallgeo5


Dec 6, 2013, 6:34 PM
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Re: [marshallgeo5] Using a grigri to rappel, but not really [In reply to]
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I drew a picture to maybe help clear things up in case it was confusing to read. I didn't draw in redundancies and all that but the top rope set up is solid.


InDaDacks


Dec 6, 2013, 8:22 PM
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Re: [marshallgeo5] Using a grigri to rappel, but not really [In reply to]
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From your first post, it sounds like you have a solid understanding of what you're trying to accomplish.

I have used a similar technique. A few things to consider:
What is the diameter of your static line? Anything less than 10mm will be more difficult to control when descending to your tr setup.
What will you do with the loose end of your descent line once you are ready to rappel down your climbing rope?

Once your tr setup is equalized, and over the edge, pull it up and set up your rappel while safe. I believe you intend on doing this? GOOD!

If your static line isn't long enough to reach past your tr anchor, you can use the same systems as a multipitch rappel.


JimTitt


Dec 6, 2013, 11:47 PM
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Re: [marshallgeo5] Using a grigri to rappel, but not really [In reply to]
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So long as your static rope is 9/9.5mm or bigger then you shouldnt need any more friction for the Grigri. Make sure you have a reliable system to lock the ATC off while your removing the Grigri like a French Prusik. Remove the stopper knot on the static once your on the ATC, it can be slightly annoying if it jams in something when you want to pull it all back up!


marshallgeo5


Dec 7, 2013, 7:16 AM
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Re: [InDaDacks] Using a grigri to rappel, but not really [In reply to]
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Thank you both I really appreciate it! Always glad to get some advice from an ADKer und ein Deutscher.

My static is actually 11 mm, so it seems like that will be more than enough to make the decent controlled.

You then asked what I'll do with the loose end of my descent line once I'm ready to rappel down my climbing rope. It seems like JimTitt harped on that point below, but just to be clear, I'm assuming this is a reminder to untie the stopper on my static.

And yes, I forgot to mention the autoblock/french prusik, but I always make use of some friction hitch for rappels


(This post was edited by marshallgeo5 on Dec 7, 2013, 7:21 AM)


padlinfool


Dec 7, 2013, 8:19 AM
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Re: [marshallgeo5] Using a grigri to rappel, but not really [In reply to]
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Sometimes when setting up an extended masterpoint that is difficult to see, we get on a Gri-gri first thing... as it creates a adjustable safety line that allows for partial descent to view how the masterpoint is hanging and top rope is running.

Just set your descent line end first.
Get on it with the grigri.
Then build/modify your masterpoint with the remaining static from a good adjustable stance/view.
Descend, transfer and rap if required.


JimTitt


Dec 7, 2013, 10:31 AM
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Re: [marshallgeo5] Using a grigri to rappel, but not really [In reply to]
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Hey, Im English!
You might find an 11mm static gives a horrific amount of friction through a GriGri, I find anything over 10mm a bit much with a Grigri 1 and Im a bit on the heavy side.


sbaclimber


Dec 7, 2013, 11:36 AM
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Re: [JimTitt] Using a grigri to rappel, but not really [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
Hey, Im English!
Yeah, right...like I'm an American. Crazy














...oh, wait.Tongue


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Dec 7, 2013, 11:43 AM)


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