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Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start?
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antleo


Dec 4, 2013, 7:32 PM
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Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start?
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Here's the story, I'm 16, and have fallen in love with climbing. I have only climbed indoors so far, but the obvious goal is to go outdoors. I know its a huge jump, but I'm committed. I also got my friends really into it. I have the basics for indoor, harness shoes atc 1 screw gate 'biner and a chalk bag. I want to get a trad rack ready for the spring. I'm 16 though, so I have a minimum wage job so it'll be in chunks. What I'm thinking for a starting rack is 2 sets of nuts(would 1 suffice? seems doubling would create more possibilities) 12 quick draws(enough?), a set of larger hexs, possibly some cams(i think i could get away with all passive pro but suggest otherwise if you think not) finally I'm unsure on number of slings runners daisy chains anchors cordalet and so on, what would you suggest? Also, ropes, looking for larger diameter rope, what would be best bang for the buck?
what else would you suggest to add to the rack?

Where would have the best prices to buy online?

Oh and climbing the Adirondacks and possibly the gunks.

Thanks in advance!!


moose_droppings


Dec 4, 2013, 10:33 PM
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Re: [antleo] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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antleo wrote:
Here's the story, I'm 16, and have fallen in love with climbing. I have only climbed indoors so far, but the obvious goal is to go outdoors. I know its a huge jump, but I'm committed. I also got my friends really into it. I have the basics for indoor, harness shoes atc 1 screw gate 'biner and a chalk bag. I want to get a trad rack ready for the spring. I'm 16 though, so I have a minimum wage job so it'll be in chunks. What I'm thinking for a starting rack is 2 sets of nuts(would 1 suffice? seems doubling would create more possibilities) 12 quick draws(enough?), a set of larger hexs, possibly some cams(i think i could get away with all passive pro but suggest otherwise if you think not) finally I'm unsure on number of slings runners daisy chains anchors cordalet and so on, what would you suggest? Also, ropes, looking for larger diameter rope, what would be best bang for the buck?
what else would you suggest to add to the rack?

Where would have the best prices to buy online?

Oh and climbing the Adirondacks and possibly the gunks.

Thanks in advance!!

Don't get in a rush, the gear you'll need will expose itself with more time, it could be a fad your into at the moment which may fade.

Two sets of nuts right off the bat seems a bit much, in time you might find the need, hexes seem like a good addition for passive. I'd spend the money on cams ( if you stick with it ) as opposed to another set of nuts. See what fits your needs and your hands as far as cams go, try as many brands as possible before committing.

Quickdraws will work double duty. The biners off of them when not on bones can be used to make up some runners for trad with some slings. 8 60cm draws and four 120cm would be a fair mix, both can be doubled or tripled up for using or racking too.

Understanding the liabilities and advantages of a cordellete will determine your need. IMO your better off when making a gear anchor to use the rope. If you've got a bolted anchor, a couple of draws work. Skip out on the daisy chains till you know their limitations.Some of us old farts still use them.

At your stage of the game I'd get the cheapest (reputable) brand 60m by 10.5mm rope to start with.

Can't go to wrong with Gear Express IMO. You'd be doing yourself a favor by Googling gear and being vigilant of prices. Frequent the gear manufactures sites, teach yourself an understanding of the stats of their products and don't be afraid to come back here and ask questions. many of the manufactures websites have excellent info on the usage and limitations of their gear.


antleo


Dec 5, 2013, 6:13 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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What would you say about used gear? (besides slings and rope) Also, would a set of nuts and a set of hexes be enough for pro? (climbing in the Adirondacks for now)


sbaclimber


Dec 5, 2013, 7:15 AM
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Re: [antleo] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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antleo wrote:
Also, would a set of nuts and a set of hexes be enough for pro? (climbing in the Adirondacks for now)
I climbed for a number of years with just 2 sets of BD wires in the 'dacks.
It is enough to protect many routes quite well (e.g. Regular Route on Chapel Pond Slab, bunch of routes on the Creature Wall and Beer Walls, Little Finger on Rogers Rock), but you will have to pick-and-choose a bit. A handful of (tri-)cams in the fingers-fist range will allow you to protect at least 3x as many more lines.


mojomonkey


Dec 5, 2013, 8:17 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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Some good replies so far. It would be preferable for you to find someone who knows what they are doing and learn from them and try out their gear. That will give you a better idea of what you will want to buy eventually and help spread out your buying time while getting you climbing and learning quicker.


skelldify


Dec 5, 2013, 8:18 AM
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Re: [antleo] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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It's great that you're psyched, but you're getting way ahead of yourself.

Find yourself a trusted mentor, and tag along with them for a couple seasons. Learn how to climb on rock, place gear, manage rope, set anchors, all the things that you don't learn in the gym. As you climb with this person, take note of what gear they use, and how they use it, and start making a list of what you think you might need.

I know it's tempting to jump right into it, but trying to teach yourself how to do all these things is a recipe for disaster, ESPECIALLY in the 'Daks. There are no amenities there, no bolted anchors, very few bolts at all, tricky route-finding, committing routes, no one around, and it's a loooong way to get help if anything goes wrong.


(This post was edited by skelldify on Dec 5, 2013, 8:22 AM)


moose_droppings


Dec 5, 2013, 10:52 AM
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Re: [antleo] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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antleo wrote:
What would you say about used gear? (besides slings and rope) Also, would a set of nuts and a set of hexes be enough for pro? (climbing in the Adirondacks for now)


If you know what your inspecting for, yes, used hardware can be an alternative to new gear. Make sure you feel safe with that question sometime when you've got one piece between you and a bad fall.

Someone familiar with the Daks can answer "what gear" questions better then me, but I put a lot of miles on with just some nuts and hexes around here.


antleo


Dec 7, 2013, 8:34 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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ok so i think ive got my rack chosen. It will come as right after my snowboard. (for those of you saying that this is just a fad for me, i know this is not, im an outdoors guy, always have been always will be and this is another way to further this) so my new question, im looking into getting a lightweight 3 person tent(have a heavy 5 person) for backpacking and possibly as a ahh i suppose call it a basecamp for the climbing trip my friend and i have been planning(we will both have much much more experience at that point) any tents you could suggest for a relatively low price?


JAB


Dec 12, 2013, 1:03 AM
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Re: [antleo] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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One thing to keep in mind is that climbing hardware (i.e. nuts, cams, biners) are very durable, and will easily last 10+ years. So it's much smarter to buy the best hardware right away than going for the "start off with some cheap stuff and upgrade later". Especially as the price difference on cheap and top range hardware is not that big.


skelldify


Dec 13, 2013, 8:31 AM
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Re: [antleo] Time to get a trad rack started Where to buy and is this a good start? [In reply to]
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Why would we give you more advice after you ignored our previous suggestions?


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