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Makings of my first rack
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Eclipze


Jan 2, 2014, 4:37 PM
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Makings of my first rack
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So I finally decided to get back into climbing and get serious about it and get some gear. This so far is what Im at

Five Ten Newton Shoes (got them for $40 shipped a size down and by accident they sent a second pair that was just right thanks Five Ten!)
Black Diamond Stopper set (The originals not the painted)
Black Diamond Momentum AL Harness
Black Diamond ATC XP
2 Titan Screwlocks (one being shipped)
1 Grivel Screwlock
1 HMS Bionic TwistLock
1 Omega Pacific D Lock
6 Metolius wiregate biners
5 Dyneema Dirtbag Quickdraws
1 CAMP Armour Helmet
Here's a picture of the gear in Israel atm. The rest is in America due to arrive in February. Just wondering what peoples' thoughts are on all of it, if they've had personal experience with the products I chose and what (besides rope and cams) is missing. Most of the climbing in israel is sport or bouldering there is some trad but you gotta find people willing to do it so it is a challenge. Thanks!




granite_grrl


Jan 3, 2014, 6:34 AM
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Re: [Eclipze] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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Eclipze wrote:
So I finally decided to get back into climbing and get serious about it and get some gear. This so far is what Im at

Five Ten Newton Shoes (got them for $40 shipped a size down and by accident they sent a second pair that was just right thanks Five Ten!)
Black Diamond Stopper set (The originals not the painted)
Black Diamond Momentum AL Harness
Black Diamond ATC XP
2 Titan Screwlocks (one being shipped)
1 Grivel Screwlock
1 HMS Bionic TwistLock
1 Omega Pacific D Lock
6 Metolius wiregate biners
5 Dyneema Dirtbag Quickdraws
1 CAMP Armour Helmet
Here's a picture of the gear in Israel atm. The rest is in America due to arrive in February. Just wondering what peoples' thoughts are on all of it, if they've had personal experience with the products I chose and what (besides rope and cams) is missing. Most of the climbing in israel is sport or bouldering there is some trad but you gotta find people willing to do it so it is a challenge. Thanks!

[image]http://i40.tinypic.com/xejr04.jpg[/image]

Climbing gear is generally a personal preferance. I personally would rather use other draws that what you bought, but they will serve your purposes and you can upgrade later is you want.

The biggest issue I see is that you only got yourself 5 quickdraws. Unless the routes you are climbing only have 3 bolts plus anchors (or perhaps they don't have bolted anchors?) that's not going to be enough. Hopefully they people you're climbing with have more though.


Eclipze


Jan 3, 2014, 6:45 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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How many would you suggest? i've read that its worthwhile to have ~ 10 to 15 and Yes the people I climb with have gear. I am looking for something good quality but cheap I am on a soldiers pay and I havent seen a cent from my parents in 5 years. I am trolling the outdoor gear sites for a good place to grab some gear with a discount code with little luck.

Edit: I found some CAMP Express Quickdraws I can get 2 20cm 2 11cm and 2 15cm for $61 shipped. Considering a 5 pack costs more normally i would say thats a pretty solid deal. Thoughts?


(This post was edited by Eclipze on Jan 3, 2014, 8:00 AM)


funk


Jan 3, 2014, 9:45 AM
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Re: [Eclipze] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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buy webbing (gearwhores, what does it go for these days, $.35 a foot?), tie your own draws. save $2 minimum a draw.

now, let us begin the asinine commentary about how unsafe that is, or the personal anecdotes about a friend of a friend's ice partner who's cousin had a NOLS instructor who once told them about their buddy's partner who once decked 45 feet on a poorly tied self made quick draw.

(This post was edited by funk on Jan 3, 2014, 9:47 AM)


Eclipze


Jan 3, 2014, 12:10 PM
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If I trusted myself enough to do it i would. but getting the materials and everything by the end of it the quickdraws on sale are just cheaper when you include the caribiners i would need


lena_chita
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Jan 3, 2014, 5:38 PM
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Re: [Eclipze] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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If most of the climbing where you are at the moment is sport or bouldering, and you don't have people to climb trad with, anyway, then what do you need the BD stoppers for? Why would you need cams right now? Why do you need so many locking 'biners? Don't buy trad gear until you are climbing on gear.

IMO, if you climb with people who have gear, then you are all set for the moment. Your next priority is to get more quickdraws, and a rope.

In the end, you will spend less money if you buy what you already KNOW you like, instead of buying something you have never held in your hands, based on website info.

What quickdraws have your friends have? Have you had a chance to clip different ones, by climbing on other people's gear? Did you notice any difference? You will have those draws for a long time, before they would need replacement, so couple $$s extra is not that much to pay, for what you like. Some people like bigger, beefier 'biners. Some people like longer dogbones, there is an endless debate of wiregate vs. solid.

Obviously, if I have to, I'd clip anything. But if you ask me, the draws you have are not what i would choose. keylock biner at the bolt-end, wide dogbones (I would get most 12cm ones, and some 18cm ones) and wire-gate biners for the rope end.


shockabuku


Jan 3, 2014, 6:50 PM
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Re: [Eclipze] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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Sent you a PM with some advice for a service member.

Get a rope, 60 or 70 m depending on what is needed where you climb, 9.7 to 10.3 mm diameter. Rope bag is handy but not necessary.

Definitely more draws but if you can use other people's for now do that. My preference for draws is keynose on the bolt end, either bent gate or wire gate on the rope end.

Eventually you'll probably want a more aggressive pair of shoes, especially if you're mostly bouldering and/or sport climbing.

Remember that metal goods (carabiners) last a long time, everything else (ropes, shoes, slings, draws) is a consumable and you will likely decide to buy again if you go for affordability the first time around.

Here are some potentially useful resources:
http://www.weighmyrack.com/deals
http://www.spadout.com/


Eclipze


Jan 3, 2014, 7:06 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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Its easy enough to switch out one end of the draws I have for some wiregates which I also have. That fixes that problem. For extending my draw rack I can grab some of the CAMP Orbit Express that ive seen and used and liked, and add a bent gate to one end, and get some heavy dogbones from Black Diamond. As to gear my friends have They have everything but climbing here is less consistent and more about who is available to climb that day. It's much less preferable but I'd rather climb and get more experience than wait for a buddy to be free and not climb for 3 weeks. It is very hard to get gear sent here customs is a pain in the ass. Climbing gear here costs at least triple what it would in the states for the most part, And I only have a chance to get the gear about once a year which is coming up in February hence why I bought the stoppers. Thanks for the advice


Eclipze


Jan 3, 2014, 7:15 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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Yeah thanks for the info! For ropes I found the Sterling Marathon Pro among others that was repped for durability thats right in that range so I may pull the trigger on that next month. I havent seen a cliff in israel that I would have a need for a 70m rope and I dont see myself being able to travel abroad for a while so I think for my first rope im going with a 60m


Eclipze


Jan 6, 2014, 11:58 PM
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Re: [Eclipze] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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Found some different ropes. Deciding between the BlueWater Lightning Pro STD and The Petzl Xion. Found deals on both they are the same price @$149. Wondering people's thoughts that have used the ropes over time I.E. A year/2 years and how they held up. Mostly going to be doing indoor/outdoor sport Climbing maybe some trad now and again once-twice/week.


Appelkoos


Jan 7, 2014, 1:04 AM
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Re: [Eclipze] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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Haven't used the Xion or the Lightning, so my experience isn't directly useful ... but ...

I have a Blue Water Dominator. Great rope, wonderful handling, lasted a long time. I'll buy the same rope 10 times out of 10.


shockabuku


Jan 7, 2014, 12:20 PM
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Did you read the PM I sent you?


Eclipze


Jan 8, 2014, 6:30 AM
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Found an awesome deal on the BlueWater Lightning Pro Double Dry Inc a rope bag and other accessories that were included. Also grabbed some 20 and 15cm quickdraws The Camp Orbit as well as 2 17cm Petzl dogbones to make 2 other draws . Grabbed 2 60cm slings also. Wooo we good do go


roninthorne


Jan 8, 2014, 4:24 PM
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Re: [Eclipze] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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The suggestions you have so far are (most of them) from folks that have given solid advice on this site over the years that I've been on here. I will say that although I started out trad, I know a lot of folks don't because they don't have the gear. Personally, I found that after a bit of trad leading, bolts were just so darned convenient and sport climbing seemed a bit like cheating... but I LIKED it!

So I support the wired stoppers and extra biners. Here are a few more suggestions-

A cleaning tool.

Lowe Tri-cams... if nothing else, they're a lesson in placement and patience that will make you better at placing spring-loaded cams.

Not sure what you will be dealing with in the way of cracks, but I rarely go trad climbing without my Hexes without eventually wishing that I had them.

(Of course, when I do bring them, they often don't work in the cracks I choose... life's funny, ain't it?)

Get the ones you can replace the cords in, since replacing steel cable is much more expensive and difficult.

Best of luck. Don't be afraid to come back and ask more questions.

Now go out there and have some fun!

(This post was edited by roninthorne on Jan 8, 2014, 4:28 PM)


Eclipze


Jan 12, 2014, 9:35 PM
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Re: [roninthorne] Makings of my first rack [In reply to]
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Here are some pics

First time on the dyno wall



Me missing the dyno for the millionth time



Million and one



Me Climbing in Virginia in a 5.9 top rope about 2 years ago




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