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Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE!
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1climbergirl


Jan 14, 2014, 7:53 PM
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Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE!
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Ok, so I have been climbing for like a month. I've been in the gym today, I decided to climb to the "edgy" and "more inclined" parts in the climbing gym. Problem is I CAN'T FREAKING CLIMB THE FREAKING EDGY STEEP ROCK. I've been advised by my instructor and all I CAN'T FOLLOW them, I'm so FRUSTRATED till now.

So I found what's holding me back: Instead of my weight being in my LEGS, I PUT MY WEIGHT IN MY ARMS! My arms are thin and weak. Even if I keep forcing my weight to be on my legs, I can't, it automatically goes to my arms, BECAUSE I KEEP HANGING!

Then, I also attempted to do dyno, because I can't reach some rocks because the nearby rocks are too small and slippery. Im pretty sure I do the right position but then when I reach, MY HANDS WOULD ALWAYS SLIP!

Well in general I wanna ask:
1. How to AVOID putting my weight on my arms when hanging and climbing and put the weight in my LEGS instead?
2. How do I NOT get my hands slip when doing DYNO?
3. HOW DO I CLIMB A STEEP ROCK?! I've been attempting to do them for like 5 times and I end up getting my arms very used and go home.

PS: I was thinking maybe my shoes are too slippery or my climbing methods are wrong!

At the end, I end up giving up and going home with painful and sore arms. Unsure I tried to search for climbing techniques, THEY ALL SAY THE SAME THING TO PUT MY WEIGHT ON LEGS BUT WHEN I TRY (I tried 5 mins ago in my door) I END UP USING MY ARMS!! Frown

NEED YOUR ADVICES please Im so totally frustrated! Thanks!!


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 14, 2014, 9:45 PM)


olderic


Jan 14, 2014, 8:04 PM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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Looks like another one lobbed up for Lena - I'm sure she'll bite...


1climbergirl


Jan 14, 2014, 8:22 PM
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Re: [olderic] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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olderic wrote:
Looks like another one lobbed up for Lena - I'm sure she'll bite...

What are you talking about? I'm pretty sure you're being sarcastic or something. I just need people to help me about my climbing, I don't see anything wrong with that.


JimTitt


Jan 14, 2014, 11:13 PM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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Get your feet higher.


jt512


Jan 14, 2014, 11:37 PM
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Re: [JimTitt] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.


1climbergirl


Jan 14, 2014, 11:50 PM
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Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.

Easier said than done. My instructor told me also that but I still end up grabbing the rock and hang with my arms. Even if my feet are high enough, I still don't feel the weight in my legs but still in my arms! I've been attempting for the nth time, but my arms!
It's like instead of legs to be in support I end up doing the support in my arms. Unsure I don't know what to do anymore! Seems my arms are uncontrollable. I need better advices than that. I end up getting my arms tired and stop climbing Unsure


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 14, 2014, 11:52 PM)


JohnCook


Jan 15, 2014, 3:25 AM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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Take a step back.
Go onto some slab angled routes. Pick an easy route with big holds. Get a tennis ball on each hand, and repeatedly climb the easy route on just your legs with hands for balance. Work up from here.
At sometime or another almost every climber has been through the same problem of learning a new technique. You cannot learn a new technique if you are at your limit or even close. You will resort to old practices. So for a new technique, like making you legs do the work, you get on an easy route and get the technique imprinted, and the build up through the grade. It may take some time to get it right, but when you do the feeling is great. If your instructor is any good s/he will have recommended this type of exercise. It works for many techniques. Go back to beginnings and get it imprinted in an easy situation where there is no pressure, and then apply it to gradually increasing difficulty of routes.


Shanna


Jan 15, 2014, 8:33 AM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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You say your hands are slipping- this might be obvious but are you using chalk? I recall some post and you are in asia? is it hot in the gym? I always find dynos to be much harder when it is hot vs cold.
Climbing is a technique/movement based skill. You state you have been climbing one month?? Give yourself 3 months to learn this skill, practice it 3x/ week and report back (Patience is needed in rock climbing and there is value in appreciating the process).
How steep of a wall are you on? You might get better feedback if you can tell us if the wall is 25deg, 45deg etc. In my experience, the angle of the wall dictates some of the technique and the arm power required....


funk


Jan 15, 2014, 9:34 AM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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1)work on your footwork. do sit ups and leg lefts. put xmas bells on your shoes. climb until you figure out how to stop them from ringing
2) stop climbing in the gym. or at least stop expecting anything meaningful with regards to actual rock climbing to come from it.
3)Dyno's are 1:10,000 on rock.
4) concern yourself more with being able to lock a crimp off at your belly button.


jt512


Jan 15, 2014, 11:05 AM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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1climbergirl wrote:
jt512 wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.

Easier said than done. My instructor told me also that but I still end up grabbing the rock and hang with my arms. Even if my feet are high enough, I still don't feel the weight in my legs but still in my arms! I've been attempting for the nth time, but my arms!
It's like instead of legs to be in support I end up doing the support in my arms. Unsure I don't know what to do anymore! Seems my arms are uncontrollable. I need better advices than that. I end up getting my arms tired and stop climbing Unsure

Get this book, watch the accompanying DVD, and start doing the exercises.


hyhuu


Jan 15, 2014, 12:07 PM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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OP - You are new to climbing so it's natural that it feels hard. Most people go through the same process. On steep wall, you will feel the weight on your arms. It will take times to develope strength and proper techniques. Right now just have fun trying and watch how other climbers climb to see what works better for you.

Also, instead of feeling frustrated, use that as a motivation to try again.


curt


Jan 15, 2014, 2:16 PM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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1climbergirl wrote:
jt512 wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
Get your feet higher.

It's amazing how often totally generic advice actually works in practice.

Beginner: I can't reach the next handhold.

Coach (without even looking): Get your feet higher.

Beginner: Thanks. That worked.

Easier said than done. My instructor told me also that but I still end up grabbing the rock and hang with my arms...

Well, don't do that.

Curt


dorienc


Jan 15, 2014, 5:50 PM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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You've been climbing a month. It takes time to get good. If you're on overhangs, yes, they are hard, yes, you do need upper body strength, but also, yes, pushing with your legs and tightening your abs can help. It's also about body positioning, and if you are just facing the rock on an overhang, you probably are in trouble.
Forget dynos. They are for fun, when you are at that point.

A month? Climb more. That's the best thing. Climb the stuff you can climb, and then climb the stuff you almost can. This will make you stronger bit by bit.

A month? Pshaw. It takes time. "5 times"? Try 50000 times. And yes, your arms get tired and hurt. Climbing is hard work.


ConquertheCrux


Jan 15, 2014, 7:59 PM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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I agree with dorienc.

You have to be much more patient i understand that you want to become a better climber but you also want to avoid injury. You've only been climbing for one month and developing proper finger strength takes years. Attempting dyno's this early in the game is just asking for finger injuries. I'd stay away from those for now. Plus, it isn't a necessary skill you need to climb better.

As for climbing on steeper angles, the best advice I can give you to start is to focus on your body positioning. Climbing on an angle while your hips are square with the wall requires you to pull up with your arms every time to reach the next hold. This uses a lot of strength and energy. Instead, twist your body into the wall so that your hips become perpendicular with the wall. This brings you much closer to your next hold, puts more weight on your feet and doesn't require you to pull up with your arms.

Hopefully that helps, but to be honest, the most valuable advice you can get is to be patient and climb smart. Don't push your body past where it's not ready to go. The tendons in your fingers strengthen much slower than the muscles in your fingers do. Don't put yourself out before you've even started.


jt512


Jan 16, 2014, 12:11 AM
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Re: [ConquertheCrux] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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ConquertheCrux wrote:
blah, blah, blah

You are the most elaborate troll I have ever seen. I can't wait to find out what it is you're actually peddling.

Seriously, girl, with your skills, you should be fishing in a much deeper pond.


marc801


Jan 16, 2014, 7:34 AM
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Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
ConquertheCrux wrote:
blah, blah, blah

You are the most elaborate troll I have ever seen. I can't wait to find out what it is you're actually peddling.

Seriously, girl, with your skills, you should be fishing in a much deeper pond.
Huh? You're calling ConquertheCrux a troll? But that's actually reasonable advice for the OP. Is the OP the troll?
I'm confused.
Wait! Are you suggesting that they are one in the same?


ConquertheCrux


Jan 16, 2014, 5:20 PM
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It's sad to see what the online climbing community is coming too. The climbing community is one of the reasons why I love climbing so much when I started.

I will always have the desire to help others and give advice. Climbing is my passion. It is not my problem if you don't agree with the advice I have. You are entitled to your own opinion.

Instead, why don't you try helping a climber out and give her some solid advice?


jt512


Jan 16, 2014, 6:04 PM
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Re: [marc801] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
ConquertheCrux wrote:
blah, blah, blah

You are the most elaborate troll I have ever seen. I can't wait to find out what it is you're actually peddling.

Seriously, girl, with your skills, you should be fishing in a much deeper pond.
Huh? You're calling ConquertheCrux a troll?

Either she's a troll, or she just has a knack for designing web sites that make her look like a snake oil salesman.



http://conquerthecrux.com/


1climbergirl


Jan 16, 2014, 7:13 PM
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Re: [jt512] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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 I am thankful for all the advices but first things first I AM NOT A TROLL. I would never understand why you are calling me that, I joined this climbing community just to have you better climber' advices for a frustrated beginner like me. It saddens me when I am asking for advices then I'll be called a troll.

In reply to the person who ask if I used chalk, well, no. Becaus one of the climbers there in the gym told me it's not needed since it's a bit cold and damp but my hands are sweating, but still I don't think that's the main reason why I can't do dyno.


Body positioning is good but when I get to the rocks I suck!! I really can't control my body Thanks anyway for all advices. I'm still open for some


ConquertheCrux


Jan 16, 2014, 8:01 PM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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Don't worry 1climbergirl, they are calling me a troll not you.

I am embarrassed for the experience you've had by just asking for some advice. It's definitely not a good representation of the climbing community. Very unfortunate. I think you'd be better off asking fellow climbers at your gym for advice, particularly climbers that you see climbing whatever your weaknesses are. It's likely that you'll find some more friendly climbers there. The space here seems a bit negative for my liking.


marc801


Jan 16, 2014, 10:48 PM
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Re: [ConquertheCrux] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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ConquertheCrux wrote:
I am embarrassed for the experience you've had by just asking for some advice. It's definitely not a good representation of the climbing community. Very unfortunate.
Bullshit. There's been tons of good advice (not "advices", btw) in this and her other threads. The OP is choosing to not listen to a lot of it for whatever reasons, impatience likely being one.

1climbergirl: in a nutshell, people in this thread have told you
1. it's going to take longer than a month....or 2....or 12 - get used to it.
2. you're going to hurt at various times for as long as you climb - get used to it
3. some climbs are going to totally spank you and this will happen for as long as you climb - get used to it
4. dynos are used pretty infrequently on real rock, so stop obsessing over them
5. master techniques on easier climbs first so they are internalized and they become part of your toolkit. If you keep using poor techniques on climbs that are currently too difficult for you, all you're really doing is reinforcing poor technique
6. get that book and dvd that was mentioned
7. quit whining - it puts people off


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jan 16, 2014, 10:49 PM)


1climbergirl


Jan 17, 2014, 2:50 AM
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Re: [marc801] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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Marc801- Wow, I found your post really insulting, sorry. I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer. If you don't like what I have posted or read them you could have just ignored it. I don't know much about climbing since Im new in this and so in the gym, I'm still ashamed to ask climbers in the gym I go to or even my instructor since I just moved so I tend to ask online, plus I go to school so I don't have much time to find all the questions I need covered by a million post in this site because I go still go to school, when I could just ask them here and get immediate answers. Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything. Just because you are not new in climbing, I assume for too long doesn't mean you can say everything's so easy to a new climber like me.


ConquertheCrux- I was thinking the "from beginners-to-intermediate-climber" people are the better ones to ask because they would really complete remember and know how they conquered such difficulty what I'm having right now. The book SELF-COACHED CLIMBER isn't available in Asia (where I am in right now) so I can't read it even if I wanted to.

Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

Im still open for suggestions about my question, I don't get much of the answers, and it's like it's easier said than done to me since I also need arms to climb on steep edges (esp with arms like mine really skinny and prone to pain). Thanks


(This post was edited by 1climbergirl on Jan 17, 2014, 2:53 AM)


Gravitron5000


Jan 17, 2014, 6:44 AM
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Re: [1climbergirl] Doing dynos and climbing on steep edges and other problems. HELP ME PEOPLE! [In reply to]
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First of all, this is the internet, and some people on the internet are rude. It doesn't make them wrong, just rude. You're best off if you learn to take it with a grain of salt. Now, Marc's tone not be to your liking, but he brings up the point that climbing is a technical sport that takes work to learn. Keep climbing, watch other people that climb well and emulate their technique, be patient, and put loads of hours in. That's your best bet to improvement at the moment.

I found that when I was starting to climb overhanging terrain, knowing what I needed to do and getting myself to actually do it were also a problem. It took hours of practice working specifically the techniques that I wasn't able to execute before something clicked and it started to sink in.

For who you should ask, I would not avoid asking "strong" climbers as well. Many climbers are very analytical about climbing, and even if they have not had to deal with the issues that you are dealing with in a long time, they can probably tell you exactly what you are doing wrong and what things you should try to fix your technique.

As for chalk, being cold usually means that chalk is not needed as much, but damp and sweaty are exactly the conditions that climbing chalk will help with. If your hands are slipping because they are damp, chalk should help.

In reply to:
Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

They are not wrong, and there is no reason to feel like an idiot. You just need to practice, practice, practice.


kennoyce


Jan 17, 2014, 7:46 AM
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1climbergirl wrote:
Marc801- Wow, I found your post really insulting, sorry. I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer. If you don't like what I have posted or read them you could have just ignored it. I don't know much about climbing since Im new in this and so in the gym, I'm still ashamed to ask climbers in the gym I go to or even my instructor since I just moved so I tend to ask online, plus I go to school so I don't have much time to find all the questions I need covered by a million post in this site because I go still go to school, when I could just ask them here and get immediate answers. Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything. Just because you are not new in climbing, I assume for too long doesn't mean you can say everything's so easy to a new climber like me.


ConquertheCrux- I was thinking the "from beginners-to-intermediate-climber" people are the better ones to ask because they would really complete remember and know how they conquered such difficulty what I'm having right now. The book SELF-COACHED CLIMBER isn't available in Asia (where I am in right now) so I can't read it even if I wanted to.

Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

Im still open for suggestions about my question, I don't get much of the answers, and it's like it's easier said than done to me since I also need arms to climb on steep edges (esp with arms like mine really skinny and prone to pain). Thanks

I have to agree with gravitron5000 here, you may not like the tone of mark801's post, but the advice he gives is pretty good.

The couple of things I can recommend are as follows:

You've only been climbing for a short period of time, just have fun with it, try not to get injured, and improvement will come with practice.

Don't worry about what other climbers think of you or feel embarrassed. Everyone had to start at the beginning just like you, and in real life, most climbers tend to be pretty nice people.

When asking for advice, try asking the most experienced climbers you can find. Even though it may have been longer since they were at the climbing phase you are currently at, they will be much more likely to see exactly what you are doing wrong and exactly what you need to do to fix it. People closer to your level will have a much harder time doing this.

Overhangs will require upper body and arm strength no matter what. There is no magic way to use your legs on an overhang that will take all the weight off your arms. There are techniques that will help some, but you are going to have to increase your upper body and arm strength to be able to climb overhangs, that's just a fact. What's the best way to do this you may ask? Well, the answer is to keep trying overhangs. Just get on the easiest overhanging routes and go up and down them a bunch of times, when they start feeling easy, move to a harder problem or route and do the same.

Lastly, improvement takes time. I know it can be frustrating, but try to be patient and the improvement will come.

Oh and really lastly, this is the internet, you've got to harden up a bit because people are much more rude when they are hiding behind an anonymous username on a screen.


lena_chita
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Jan 17, 2014, 8:48 AM
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1climbergirl wrote:
Marc801- Wow, I found your post really insulting, sorry. I have just registered here so I expected the welcome to be a bit warmer. If you don't like what I have posted or read them you could have just ignored it. I don't know much about climbing since Im new in this and so in the gym, I'm still ashamed to ask climbers in the gym I go to or even my instructor since I just moved so I tend to ask online, plus I go to school so I don't have much time to find all the questions I need covered by a million post in this site because I go still go to school, when I could just ask them here and get immediate answers. Please don't go comment here any more if you are annoyed or anything. Just because you are not new in climbing, I assume for too long doesn't mean you can say everything's so easy to a new climber like me.


ConquertheCrux- I was thinking the "from beginners-to-intermediate-climber" people are the better ones to ask because they would really complete remember and know how they conquered such difficulty what I'm having right now. The book SELF-COACHED CLIMBER isn't available in Asia (where I am in right now) so I can't read it even if I wanted to.

Any way, thanks, a lot of people told me here to work on my positioning. When my instructor is telling me what to do and my body doesn't do the work, it's so embarrassing it feels like I'm an idiot or something.

Im still open for suggestions about my question, I don't get much of the answers, and it's like it's easier said than done to me since I also need arms to climb on steep edges (esp with arms like mine really skinny and prone to pain). Thanks

People who really want to do something, DO it. People who don't want to try hard, find excuses.

You've got plenty of advice and encouragement here, so far. But there is only so much someone on the internet can do for you.

"Self-coached climber book is not available in Asia"--waaahhhhh, oh no!!!!! -- "I can't read it, even if I wanted to!"

That is a definition of excuse. You moved to Asia from California, right? You might know one or two people who still live in California? Some school friends of yours? Your PARENTS might know one or two people? Ask them to buy the book for you, and ship it to you. Send them a check. Yes, it will be more expensive than it would be for someone in the US, but it is still worth every penny.

You are fortunate to have an instructor-- ask him/her. They are there to teach you. Being too embarrassed to ask the very person who is in the best position to help you is just plain stupid.

Getting good at climbing takes years, and every good climber continues to work hard in order to continue improvement (And that often means failing, repeatedly, until you get it)

Every sport is the same, in this respect. Knowing what you are supposed to do is not the same as being able to do it. You wouldn't get on the snowboard and expect to do a backflip on your first day, just because someone told you HOW it is done. You wouldn't expect to walk into a gymnastics class, watch an instructor show you how to do a kip, and be able to do it on the high bar on your first try.

You are young, you are still in school. Maybe up until now you had everything explained to you in detail, until you "got it". Maybe up until now you never had to try hard, to master some skill. Well, you won't be in school for much longer. In real life you have to figure things out on your own. You have to use your initiative, and you have to keep trying.

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