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sanderdiangelis


Jan 18, 2014, 11:41 PM
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Beginner Climbing Information
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Hi there, I've started a small climbing site and we have a handful of informational articles for new climbers. Topics covered include information about anchors, gear, communication, and grading. It's all very new, but I'd love to hear what else you'd like to see. The website is http://mojagear.com/learn and I fully welcome your feedback and input. While we do have gear for sale as well, our shop is very small and our emphasis is really on developing connections with our early supporters and writing content that's valuable for the community. Comments, questions, and suggestions for future articles are all welcome. Thank you and happy climbing!


(This post was edited by sanderdiangelis on Jan 19, 2014, 6:37 PM)


arthaslu


Jun 10, 2014, 3:41 PM
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Re: [sanderdiangelis] Beginner Climbing Information [In reply to]
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Great information, Thanks Smile


Evandoyer


Jun 10, 2014, 7:31 PM
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Nice work. Also a good refresher/modernizer for us old hats who have not evolved with some of the new lingo.


sanderdiangelis


Jun 10, 2014, 9:19 PM
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No problem at all, thank you for taking a look! If you have any suggestions for improvement, please let me know.


Evandoyer


Jun 11, 2014, 4:26 AM
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I am new to the V-rating system for bouldering. Could you break that down as you do the Yosemite system? I'm beginning to think some of that rating is for how obvious the line is, rather than how difficult the moves are to pull.


sanderdiangelis


Jun 11, 2014, 7:18 AM
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Great, I'll add in a little information about how the grading works. For the V-System, it's typically rated on the single hardest move in the problem. Difficulty figuring out the moves is generally not taken into account when applying a rating.


shotwell


Jun 13, 2014, 6:27 AM
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sanderdiangelis wrote:
Great, I'll add in a little information about how the grading works. For the V-System, it's typically rated on the single hardest move in the problem. Difficulty figuring out the moves is generally not taken into account when applying a rating.

I really couldn't disagree more with this statement.

Climbing grades typically rate the overall difficulty of completing the route or problem. This 'single hardest move' stuff should have died out decades ago. Some boulders only have one hard move and are graded accordingly. Other boulders have a significant power endurance component, and some are true endurance test pieces. They are all graded on the overall difficulty of the problem.

Additionally, most grades don't include the difficulty of learning the beta, but it is realistic to expect that grades will change over time as new and better beta is discovered. Many classic areas have routes downgraded over time as climbers learn new skills; climbing v0 in a place like Font will teach you this in a hurry. Areas that are using older guidebooks or are relatively young will often have grades that seem inflated until you realize that the first ascent felt harder due to having to learn the specific solution. These grades level out over time, but make it seem like the grades include the difficulty of finding the solution.


jumpingrock


Jun 13, 2014, 7:28 AM
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Agreed. Consensus seems to be that v13 is grade for the hardest single move in the world[1] - v16 is made up because you stack multiple sections of v12/v13 together[2].

[1] http://eveningsends.com/...rld-plus-2014-plans/
[2] http://www.mountainproject.com/...he-v-scale/107374275


(This post was edited by jumpingrock on Jun 13, 2014, 8:03 AM)


sanderdiangelis


Jun 13, 2014, 9:21 AM
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Both shotwell and jumpingjack are spot on and have provided a much more quality (and accurate) explanation than what I provided in that quick response. I believe that a discussion of V-scale grades does, however, require mentioning both as some methods are more prevalent in different contexts.

If introducing a beginner to bouldering in a local gym and at lower ends of the V-scale, I would argue that the "hardest move" approach is very common method (being a beginner's forum, this is why I quickly typed this without much elaboration).

However, in a greater context and outside of gyms or truly beginner climbs, v-scale grades definitely take into account more factors than the single hardest move. Thanks to both for providing a more thorough explanation.


(This post was edited by sanderdiangelis on Jun 13, 2014, 9:22 AM)


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