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how to set up a fixed line
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eduloni


Oct 15, 2013, 2:25 PM
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how to set up a fixed line
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after the leader finish the pitch and sets up the belay anchor, where and how is the fixed line for the folower is set up? on a locking biner at the masterpoint of the anchor? directly to a bolt?


rocknice2


Oct 15, 2013, 4:43 PM
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Re: [eduloni] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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eduloni wrote:
after the leader finish the pitch and sets up the belay anchor, where and how is the fixed line for the folower is set up? on a locking biner at the masterpoint of the anchor? directly to a bolt?
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moose_droppings


Oct 15, 2013, 5:11 PM
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Re: [eduloni] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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Why would you want a fixed line for the second? Don't they want to climb the pitch too?


dindolino32


Oct 15, 2013, 11:46 PM
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Re: [eduloni] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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Fixed lines are for aid climbing Moose droppings. back to the original question, the safest way is to create a master point and tie a fig 8 on a bight. Im not the most experienced aid climber out there but I can tell you that it really depends on the setup and who goes next. Sometimes I will create a master point but other times I will just clove hitch the bolts if they are bomber to save time. Sometimes I also just create a an alpine butterfly with a huge bight and then clove the tail to another bolt. method is to use a long sling on one bolt, clove to the sling, then clove directly into the other bolt above. This way it utilizes 1 sling and is equalized. either way, it's most important to identify what is safe. Keeping the anchor organized is one of the best ways to minimize an accident, and keeps you moving with time to spare at the bivy. Go to bigwalls.net and there is a ton of info, but also buying some books also helps. Lastly, start with a short goal of 4 pitches for your first aid climb to get the idea of how it works. I am still learning a ton and am in no way the definitive answer but hopefully this guides you.


USnavy


Oct 16, 2013, 3:37 AM
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Normally what I do is I put two big lockers on each bolt (for a bolted anchor). Then I tie a double figure eight and clip each ear into each carabiner. After that I throw a 4' sling on each bolt with a sliding X and I use the sling to attach my hauling device to. Anchor done. It is super simple and strong.


eduloni


Oct 16, 2013, 6:33 AM
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its ok to clip three locking carabiners on three bolts and set up two anchors on those three? or use diferent binners for diferent anchors?


shimanilami


Oct 16, 2013, 7:21 AM
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Re: [eduloni] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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eduloni wrote:
its ok to clip three locking carabiners on three bolts and set up two anchors on those three?

This is common practice.


moose_droppings


Oct 16, 2013, 1:35 PM
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Re: [dindolino32] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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I'm well aware what a fixed line is and they're not exclusive to aid.

The reason I framed my question that way is because after reading his other questions in his other threads, I don't believe he knows the correct question for the help he needs. I think he really wants to ask how to set the rope up for belaying up the second.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Oct 16, 2013, 6:06 PM)


dindolino32


Oct 16, 2013, 5:41 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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I wasn't sure if u were aware or not. No snarky comment was intended.
Did we answer the topic question or not? Now I'm confused.


moose_droppings


Oct 16, 2013, 6:14 PM
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No problem.

My answer to him might of been a little snarky though, but the kid gloves come off in the big wall and aid forum.

Though I might have clouded the water, I still think what he's wanting to know is how one sets up the rope for belaying a second at the top of a pitch. Hopefully he'll get back to us on that.

ClimbOn


skiclimb


Oct 20, 2013, 9:16 AM
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Re: [eduloni] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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I just tend to clove hitch the lead line into the proper point of whatever anchor I built. Then I yell down. Line Fixed! for the cleaner.

It's preferable to be able to separate a couple good points so the fixed line, next belay point and haul point don't interfere with each other. Also it makes it much easier to see what is going on so you or your partners don't screw up in a dangerous manner. You do what you can to be organized safely, simply, quickly and efficiently depending on circumstances.

If one must overlap various things attached to the anchor bear in mind what order everything will be needing to come off so that your next pitch breakdown goes smoothly and efficiently. This of course takes experience so that it becomes second nature. It's an important part of walling and just takes time to develop.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Oct 20, 2013, 9:26 AM)


USnavy


Jan 21, 2014, 1:22 AM
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Re: [eduloni] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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eduloni wrote:
its ok to clip three locking carabiners on three bolts and set up two anchors on those three? or use diferent binners for diferent anchors?
Yes it's fine. If there are three bolts I rig the fixed line on two, and the hauling gear on the other two, sharing the middle bolt. That keeps stuff nice and separated.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 21, 2014, 1:22 AM)


cobbledik


Mar 23, 2014, 11:19 AM
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Re: [USnavy] how to set up a fixed line [In reply to]
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See Hudon's anchor setup pdf for the cleanest and lightest method of dealing with a fixed line at your normal traderoute bigwall anchor.

http://hudonpanos.com/Wall-Tips/Anchors.pdf


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