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unbrbldeath
Nov 9, 2013, 1:21 AM
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Has anyone checked out that new climbing training book Gimme Kraft? I want to know if its worth forkin over 50 bucks for.
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5.samadhi
Nov 9, 2013, 11:39 PM
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unbrbldeath wrote: Has anyone checked out that new climbing training book Gimme Kraft? I want to know if its worth forkin over 50 bucks for.
I have free advice (judging from your avatar picture) that will increase your climbing to 5.11 level. Lose 5lbs and 2-3x/week do long 10-20 minute sets of traversing and up/down on bouldering walls without stopping.
5.11 sport in 1 month for you probably.
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shockabuku
Nov 10, 2013, 1:19 AM
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5.samadhi wrote: unbrbldeath wrote: Has anyone checked out that new climbing training book Gimme Kraft? I want to know if its worth forkin over 50 bucks for. you are climbing 10c's and are wondering whether you should pay somebody 50 bucks to help you climb stronger? I have free advice (judging from your avatar picture) that will increase your climbing to 5.11 level. Lose 5lbs and 2-3x/week do long 10-20 minute sets of traversing and up/down on bouldering walls without stopping. 5.11 sport in 1 month for you probably.
I suspect that anyone who can actually boulder V6 can sport climb better than 5.10c without any additional training focused on physical strength or endurance.
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sween345
Nov 10, 2013, 1:09 PM
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I thought this was a Mac & Cheese thread.
You can gimme that stuff (with bacon bits, of course) and I climb 2 grades higher.
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5.samadhi
Nov 10, 2013, 1:24 PM
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shockabuku wrote: 5.samadhi wrote: unbrbldeath wrote: Has anyone checked out that new climbing training book Gimme Kraft? I want to know if its worth forkin over 50 bucks for. you are climbing 10c's and are wondering whether you should pay somebody 50 bucks to help you climb stronger? I have free advice (judging from your avatar picture) that will increase your climbing to 5.11 level. Lose 5lbs and 2-3x/week do long 10-20 minute sets of traversing and up/down on bouldering walls without stopping. 5.11 sport in 1 month for you probably. I suspect that anyone who can actually boulder V6 can sport climb better than 5.10c without any additional training focused on physical strength or endurance.
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shockabuku
Nov 10, 2013, 2:55 PM
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5.samadhi wrote: shockabuku wrote: 5.samadhi wrote: unbrbldeath wrote: Has anyone checked out that new climbing training book Gimme Kraft? I want to know if its worth forkin over 50 bucks for. you are climbing 10c's and are wondering whether you should pay somebody 50 bucks to help you climb stronger? I have free advice (judging from your avatar picture) that will increase your climbing to 5.11 level. Lose 5lbs and 2-3x/week do long 10-20 minute sets of traversing and up/down on bouldering walls without stopping. 5.11 sport in 1 month for you probably. I suspect that anyone who can actually boulder V6 can sport climb better than 5.10c without any additional training focused on physical strength or endurance. You would be surprised.
I am often surprised - about what, do you think, in this case?
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lena_chita
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Nov 11, 2013, 4:02 PM
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shockabuku wrote: 5.samadhi wrote: unbrbldeath wrote: Has anyone checked out that new climbing training book Gimme Kraft? I want to know if its worth forkin over 50 bucks for. you are climbing 10c's and are wondering whether you should pay somebody 50 bucks to help you climb stronger? I have free advice (judging from your avatar picture) that will increase your climbing to 5.11 level. Lose 5lbs and 2-3x/week do long 10-20 minute sets of traversing and up/down on bouldering walls without stopping. 5.11 sport in 1 month for you probably. I suspect that anyone who can actually boulder V6 can sport climb better than 5.10c without any additional training focused on physical strength or endurance.
Seems like the OP is a boulder primarily. And yes, I HAVE seen people who boulder V6-V7 and can't climb 11a.
I think what you mean is that he can climb 11 (I would even say 12) with just a little bit of endurance work (and maybe some head issues resolution). But that is exactly what 5.samadhi is suggesting.
It is not clear to me though that the OP is looking to climb stronger on the rope, when he says he wants to climb stronger. Maybe he means boulder harder?
And back to the OP's question, no, I have not seen or heard of Gimme Kraft book.
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shockabuku
Nov 12, 2013, 12:13 AM
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lena_chita wrote: ... maybe some head issues resolution).
That's what I think of when I see boulder V6 but only 10c routes.
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unbrbldeath
Nov 13, 2013, 12:34 AM
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I am primarily a boulderer and what I would be looking for in a book like this would be ways to increase my bouldering level by getting some sort of structured climbing specific exercises. My main goal is to push through to the double digits for bouldering.
PS the reason I only have 5.10s on there for sport is because i've only lead outside like 2 or 3 times and the things I have tried i've either onsited or flashed. I will admit like most boulderers my endurance is terrible but i'm not really looking to sent hard sport climbs just yet. My focus is still bouldering.
On a side not, I dont have any quickdraws or any trad pro so I've had to wait until I could get friends to go with me in order to sport climb at all.
(This post was edited by unbrbldeath on Nov 13, 2013, 12:39 AM)
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Pedrolius
Nov 14, 2013, 4:35 AM
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Here is 8a.nu's review which is possibly biased, and is written badly, but has some of what you were looking for here in the comments:
"this book is one of high quality and clear exercises! I've been very pleased with it even since I received it."
But you never know with the internet...
And this is a piece from Patrick Matros about the book, yea another 8a.nu page...
But hey, least its some information, instead of unsolicited and rude instructions to lose weight and traverse a lot.
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unbrbldeath
Nov 14, 2013, 10:12 PM
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Thanks, that helps a lot!!
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5.samadhi
Nov 16, 2013, 4:18 PM
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unbrbldeath wrote: I am primarily a boulderer and what I would be looking for in a book like this would be ways to increase my bouldering level by getting some sort of structured climbing specific exercises. My main goal is to push through to the double digits for bouldering. PS the reason I only have 5.10s on there for sport is because i've only lead outside like 2 or 3 times and the things I have tried i've either onsited or flashed. I will admit like most boulderers my endurance is terrible but i'm not really looking to sent hard sport climbs just yet. My focus is still bouldering. On a side not, I dont have any quickdraws or any trad pro so I've had to wait until I could get friends to go with me in order to sport climb at all.
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Pedrolius
Nov 16, 2013, 6:12 PM
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How to boulder better? Judging from your avatar picture, you need to get a beanie.
Sorry, sarcasm.
Hey if you do end up getting the Gimme Kraft! book, or find it somewhere and have a flick through, could you do a quick update about your thoughts?
Where I am right now I won't be able to see it unless I pay the money and get it mailed to me.
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lacquement
Dec 9, 2013, 6:11 PM
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I have the book and have begun to incorporate a number of the exercises, particularly the sling-trainer and ring exercises. Based on what you're looking for though, I don't think this is 'the' book for you.You would probably benefit from the exercises, but it probably doesn't provide as much structure as you're looking for.
I'd recommend that you get The Self Coached Climber first, then get a copy of Gimme Craft. Also, read this old post by Fluxus (who I believe is the author of Self Coached Climber): http://www.rockclimbing.com/...0bouldering;#1329214
(This post was edited by lacquement on Dec 9, 2013, 6:22 PM)
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funk
Dec 20, 2013, 5:46 PM
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don't waste your time on a string.
climb 1-3 days a week on plastic (if you have time) - one day getting in 15 problems at, or just under your flashing ability, then climb 5 problems that give you trouble, (no more than three goes) in 2-3 hours or so (this is the more important session). at the end of the session, do 25-50 pull ups in sets of 4-10 on holds, campus rungs, rings, hang board, whatever.
One day projecting on plastic. when you're done, do ten minutes of dead hangs. however many sets, each one to failure with a minute rest. no pull ups, just hangs.
One or Two days on rock doing whatever as long as you're climbing (assuming you have a real job, Saturday and or Sunday).
Push ups 5-7 days a week and mix in some abs (leg lifts while hanging from something is huge). i'm no trainer so take what i say with a grain of salt, but you'll get stronger.
Also, if you want to climb double digits, project double digits, or close to it (8/9). your muscle memory will improve. even if only you can link two moves at a time, it's still better than running laps on your favorite V6.
(This post was edited by funk on Dec 20, 2013, 8:37 PM)
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unbrbldeath
Dec 23, 2013, 7:50 PM
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Pedrolius wrote: How to boulder better? Judging from your avatar picture, you need to get a beanie. Sorry, sarcasm. Hey if you do end up getting the Gimme Kraft! book, or find it somewhere and have a flick through, could you do a quick update about your thoughts? Where I am right now I won't be able to see it unless I pay the money and get it mailed to me.
Lol I have beanies they just get to hot in the bishop heat sometimes so i use the hat to cover my head, it burns easily and sunburns on your scalp are not fun.
I've actually been posting some videos recently on my youtube page(https://www.youtube.com/user/UnbrblDeath/videos)
and I just sent my third V7 yesterday that i've been projecting all year so that has me way pumped.
If i do end up getting the book I'll definitely post my thoughts on it.
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MED
Jan 23, 2014, 8:59 AM
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I have a review and there is a discussion thread on mountain project also.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/gimme-kraft-review/108570822
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pedro_sandchez
Jan 23, 2014, 3:52 PM
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I've had the book now for about two weeks and I've been slowly working my way through it figuring out what I can easily add to my training.
The workout descriptions are great and the photos are really helpful. It's great that they offer a way to make some of the movements more difficult. I haven't had a chance to check out the DVD because I don't have a computer with a disc drive.
The one thing I find a bit annoying is the "Pro tip" things. For the most part there is nothing beneficial in them and they don't add anything of value to the book.
Coming back from a forced 5 month rest last year due to injury, the one part of my climbing that I've felt has been super slow to come back is my core strength and body tension. I feel strong and healthy but there are moves that I can't do right now that I could do this time last year and I can feel that it is 100% due to core weakness.
With that in mind when going throughout he Kraft book, I was really excited to see that the majority of the exercises aren't simple one arm pull-up and campus board routines. The majority of the workouts are body tension and trunk strengthening.
I've been doing all of the "Sling Trainer" exercises after climbing sessions and can tell you one thing, they are very difficult and I can feel it in my core the next day. I'm confident that if I keep this up my core weakness will be remedied in no time.
It's also really really cheap to build a sling trainer at home. I think mine cost a total of 20 bucks.
I'm going to be installing a set of rings and a set of parallettes next week so I'll be able to further explore the exercises in the book.
All in all, I'm really happy with my purchase. All of this information is freely available online if you want to dig around of course. However, having it condensed into one place by a people specifically targeting climbing makes this an excellent reference piece. It would be spectacular to see a companion book that discusses things like how to actually construct a training plan using the workouts in the book, but simply using them to finish off a climbing session feels like a great place to start.
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buckets
Feb 1, 2015, 10:04 AM
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I have used these exercises for the last 3 months of winter. Doing the bouldering stuff, the floor exercise and the campus board. My core is noticibly stronger and crimp strenght better. I started bouldering v4 and now can do v7.
http://moredaysoff
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