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Alexjt011
Dec 1, 2013, 11:20 PM
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Hey,
so I am thinking of getting a training board / hangboard, and have seen many. I want one that can work for as much training as possible...lock-offs, hangs, pinches...
(Metolius,...?)
What board do you use and what training do you do for bouldering with the board?
What do you recommend (any other training stuff, like the Gstring Pro)?
Thanks
(This post was edited by Alexjt011 on Dec 1, 2013, 11:34 PM)
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madam
Dec 3, 2013, 4:18 PM
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Hi Alex,
I use AIX http://www.rockpoint.cz/...ct/4/20/8453/big.jpg
...I wanted something with slightly slopy holds. I do only dead hangs.
What comes handy as well is something to measure time and beep. Possibilities:
1 - watch infront of your face while hanging - if they beep even better.
2 - there are even special gadgets commercially sold. The whole training cycle can be programmed in it.
3 - Use your mobile/computer and some "beeping application" on it.
adam
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brooklynclimber
Dec 24, 2013, 1:15 AM
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I've heard good things about the Metolius board. I got the DRCC V5.12 board. The dual texture is nice because it keeps the skin from getting pinched. There are nice holds for sloper, crimps, and pinch. They don't have I do eleven sets of six reps deadhangs (seven seconds on, three seconds off) with three minutes inbetween, once a week. I've noticed a strong improvement after about a month. I went to twice a week, and started straining my A2s so backed off a bit.
(This post was edited by brooklynclimber on Dec 24, 2013, 1:16 AM)
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TahoeClimber86
Jan 23, 2014, 6:15 AM
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I had the same problem with the drcc 5.12 board. My tendons felt like they were going to snap on it. I also have the metropolis simulator, and I love it. The only drawback on it is the variations you get on the drcc board you don't get with the metrolius one. There aren't any slopes or really good pinches, the drcc has about every angle to pull from. I don't know if I just need to vary training more or what but despite the pain, I think the v5.12 board is better for advanced training.
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lena_chita
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Jan 23, 2014, 12:41 PM
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I don't think there is a single board that is better than others. All hangboards try to put a variety of holds on them, from jugs to tiny crimps, but for any particular individual doing the training, the range of holds that he/she needs doesn't cover that entire spectrum.
I find that you need several boards to adequately pick holds for your workout, if you are doing something like Rockprodigy program.
I do really like the DRCC 5.12 board for edges and crimps, but I don't like their pinches or slopers (because the slopers are in the middle and hanging on them stresses my shoulders and wrists), and there are no pockets on this board.
Metholius Woodgrip is very nice for pockets, because of good skin-friendly texture. I find that the texture becomes especially important on smaller holds and 2-finger pockets, because some of the "grippier" boards, like other Metholius ones, or Entreprize, really shred the skin.
And as far as pinches go, I have never found a hangboard with even adequate pinches, until the new Trango Rock Prodigy hangboard came out. On this board, you have the ability to do three types of pinches-- narrow, medium, and wide-- and they are TRUE pinches-- you can't "cheat" by resting the edge of your hand against the wall, like you can on DRCC, or just use compression and hang on "pinches" without even using your thumbs, like on Cryptonite hangboard.
It has a good skin-friendly texture, and little bump "marks" on continuous/graduated-depth edges, allowing you to position your fingers precisely the same way for every set. On other hangboards, I had to mark the edges with a sharpie, to keep position consistent.
The other great feature of the Rock Prodigy hangboard is that it comes in two pieces, and you can mount it as wide or narrow as you need, based on your body and the holds you are using. It is a really nice feature, because, all too often, various hangboard manufacturers are putting smaller holds in the middle of the hangboard, WAY closer than shoulder width apart, forcing a very unnatural body position for hanging.
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lemon_boy
Jan 23, 2014, 4:40 PM
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i have used all of the boards listed above (as well as others) and the Trango Rock Prodigy is, without a doubt, the best one. great texture, great pinches, awesome pockets. if you are serious about starting a hangboard program, this is the one you want.
i only wish this thing was available 20 years ago...
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lemon_boy
Jan 23, 2014, 4:45 PM
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also, like lena said, you can adjust the width. this is key, because the DRCC V512, the metolius, and pretty much every other board put the hardest holds in the center of the board. this makes your hands fight each other for space, and it is rough on your shoulders over the course of a season or two.
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flesh
Jan 23, 2014, 6:05 PM
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Another idea for all you hang boarders is to get just two metolius rungs, probably medium size and put them about 18 inches apart. Doesn't take up to much room and allows you to work contact strength and pull muscles/core/etc as opposed to only fingers. You can do all kinds of workouts and if you need to increase difficulty just get a adjustable weight vest. Personally, I would rather have only this than only a hang board, but why not get both. Put the board at a 15-20 degree angle.
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lemon_boy
Jan 23, 2014, 8:45 PM
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the problem with just using campus rungs is that it is really tough to work 2 finger and mono pockets. if you are training for areas that are predominantly big edges, the campus rungs can work ok. but, if you are training to climb at an area with pockets it is really helpful to have a board that has some good pockets.
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pedro_sandchez
Jan 23, 2014, 9:52 PM
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lemon_boy wrote: the problem with just using campus rungs is that it is really tough to work 2 finger and mono pockets. if you are training for areas that are predominantly big edges, the campus rungs can work ok. but, if you are training to climb at an area with pockets it is really helpful to have a board that has some good pockets.
I can't see this being a problem. When you want to work your 2 finger teams just put those two fingers on the rail. Same for monos.
This offers the advantage over a hang board with pockets in that it eliminates friction from the sides of the fingers/pocket holds and further isolates the muscle groups you are training and saves your skin.
That's been my experience at least.
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lemon_boy
Jan 23, 2014, 10:54 PM
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having done monos and 2 finger combos on regular flat edges, i can assure you that having good pockets to work with is infinitely better.
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lena_chita
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Jan 23, 2014, 11:08 PM
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lemon_boy wrote: having done monos and 2 finger combos on regular flat edges, i can assure you that having good pockets to work with is infinitely better.
I agree, hanging on two finger pocket feels very different than hanging on a flat edge with just two fingers. And there is value in training both, or either one, depending on your goal.
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flesh
Jan 27, 2014, 9:23 PM
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As a side note, I would be careful training pockets and unless you're climbing at a high level, the training wouldn't be very useful.
I've never trained pockets. Even at my level, I don't see the point and I'm afraid of the injuries from power pocket training.
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lena_chita
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Jan 28, 2014, 8:03 PM
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flesh wrote: As a side note, I would be careful training pockets and unless you're climbing at a high level, the training wouldn't be very useful. I've never trained pockets. Even at my level, I don't see the point and I'm afraid of the injuries from power pocket training.
In context of hangboard, what is "power" pocket training?
I am not doing any power training on a hangboard, but I think hangboard training cycle with weight subtraction is actually a safer way to build up finger strength on holds that you cannot hang on with body weight.
I guess how much you use pockets depends on where you climb. I don't climb as hard as you, but I have, definitely, used 2-finger pockets on actual routes. Having said that, I don't have a big emphasis on pockets, becuase i don't need it. In my current cycle there is only one 2-finger pocket, out of the total of 7 holds that i am focusing on.
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flesh
Jan 28, 2014, 9:46 PM
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My mistake, I assumed hang board training was for training power, because that's all I've ever used it for. Power means low reps or low duration of time before failure. Such as 15 seconds or less of hanging off pockets before failure.
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lena_chita
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Jan 29, 2014, 3:46 PM
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flesh wrote: My mistake, I assumed hang board training was for training power, because that's all I've ever used it for. Power means low reps or low duration of time before failure. Such as 15 seconds or less of hanging off pockets before failure.
O.K., it is a matter of semantics, then. We are talking about different things.
With science background, I think of Power as Force*Distance/Time, so training power to me means powerful MOVES, where you apply force to make an explosive move in a short amount of time, such as campusing, or really hard bouldering move.
I do a power training phase (campusing/limit bouldering) after I do the strength training phase (hangboard hanging) when I follow a periodization plan.
I do know that some people use hangboard to do the power training, as well as strength training, with way more weight and lower reps during the power phase than what I do during strength phase. Sounds like that is what you are doing. And in that case, you are right, I shouldn't be attempting it yet at my level, and certainly not on two-finger pockets.
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lemon_boy
Feb 7, 2014, 6:59 PM
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flesh wrote: My mistake, I assumed hang board training was for training power, because that's all I've ever used it for. Power means low reps or low duration of time before failure. Such as 15 seconds or less of hanging off pockets before failure.
if you are hanging for anywhere near 15 seconds, you aren't training power. power is applying high load at very low amount of time. a hangboard isn't the right tool for training power. campus board is a lot better.
you mention that you don't train pockets due to fear of injury? how do think you will be able to climb a hard route with pockets without getting injured? at least with the hangboard you are in a controlled environment and can slowly ramp up the load over many workouts. much safer than randomly throwing to some mono mid-crux.
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flesh
Feb 7, 2014, 10:03 PM
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lemon_boy wrote: flesh wrote: My mistake, I assumed hang board training was for training power, because that's all I've ever used it for. Power means low reps or low duration of time before failure. Such as 15 seconds or less of hanging off pockets before failure. if you are hanging for anywhere near 15 seconds, you aren't training power. power is applying high load at very low amount of time. a hangboard isn't the right tool for training power. campus board is a lot better. you mention that you don't train pockets due to fear of injury? how do think you will be able to climb a hard route with pockets without getting injured? at least with the hangboard you are in a controlled environment and can slowly ramp up the load over many workouts. much safer than randomly throwing to some mono mid-crux.
Call power what you will.
I assume that because I rarely encounter difficult pocket moves even at my level, there's no point in training it and potentially injuring myself. Your body gets stronger over time regardless of what your climb on. If I lived in the frakenjura, maybe I would think differently.
I don't mono. Unless its a full two pad mono, which I can only think of one off the top of my head, I don't mono. Due to risk of injury. It may take suffering and regressing from multiple injuries before you become as risk adverse as I. Reflecting on all my past injuries, I would have been better off simply avoiding all the different types of hold that are more likely to injure you. I'd be a much better climber now if that was the case. When there's so much thats good and hard that doesn't hurt, I don't see the point.
That being said, if your body is bombproof as many of my friends are, your lucky and climb on!
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