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Ha Long Bay / Cat Ba climbing
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hp


Feb 12, 2014, 12:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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Ha Long Bay / Cat Ba climbing  (Asia: Vietnam)
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Hi all!

We thinking about heading to Vietnam and more closely Ha Long bay area in June. Information in internet about the climbing around there is scattered and mostly commercial. Guide book is also out of stock everywhere.

We are thinking about staying there for weeks and we are mostly interested in 5-7a (Fr grade) lead climbing…sport mostly since I don't want to drag trad rack all over the world. Climbing needs to be safe of course. We don't need (or want) to be part of organized trips.

Since it's mostly DWS, are there sport crags with wide range of quality routes in this grade?
How easy it is to get around without guides?
I quess in certain crags you need guides because of permissions?
What is the cost for boats or crag fees?
Are there still a lot of those unsafe boltings?

I would like to hear all kinds of experiences.

Thank you beforehand!


tomcecil


Feb 12, 2014, 3:46 PM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2009
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Re: [hp] Ha Long Bay / Cat Ba climbing [In reply to]
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Thailand has proven that normal (stainless steele) bolts will degrade in a few years---unless they have replaced the bolts with Titanium bolts all you will be able to do is dws.


(This post was edited by tomcecil on Feb 12, 2014, 3:54 PM)


hp


Feb 13, 2014, 10:39 AM
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Re: [tomcecil] Ha Long Bay / Cat Ba climbing [In reply to]
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Thats right. Some of the routes in Vietnam are quite new so they SHOULD have been bolted corrosive atmosphere in mind. Does anyone have facts about bolting in Vietnam?


JohnnyBEdge


May 22, 2014, 9:01 PM
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Re: [hp] Ha Long Bay / Cat Ba climbing [In reply to]
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Most of the bolting is glue in. On Cat Ba island the bolts are still in very good condition as they dont get the salt water there in the valley. There is a climbing company on the island that does trips out there as well so the bolts are routinely checked. I can speak much about the few routes out on the rocks in the bay however. Contact Asia Outdoors on Cat Ba island for more info on that


RipTips


Jun 8, 2014, 10:52 PM
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Re: [hp] Ha Long Bay / Cat Ba climbing [In reply to]
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Hey ,

Butterfly Valley hosts 65 bolted pitches of climbing with parallel two bolt with rap ring anchors. On a few climbs, permanent carabiners are installed. The bolts are 316 stainless. If that means anything to you. The routes range from 5a to 8b+. Most routes are in the 6a-7b range.

You have planned your trip perfectly for good DWS tides. Stop in at Asia Outdoors to sign up for a trip. Others may offer it for cheaper but they may not be taking you to safe DWS locations in terms of water depth, and rock quality nor will they think about keeping the boat from floating under you as you climb. You definitely don't want to break your back and leg hitting the boat on the way down. (Witnessed).

Easy to get to Butterfly Valley. Stop by Asia Outdoor's shop and pick up a guide book, they should still have a good 80-100 left. Be sure to ask for the updates.

Asia Outdoors collects a small fee for access to Butterfly Valley to continue bolt maintenance, trail maintenance, and cleaning up after you litter the place.

50,000 VND is an access pass to Butterfly Valley.

Happy Climbing and questions for you:

"Information in internet about the climbing around there is scattered and mostly commercial."

What kind of concise information you would like to be presented with to make travel planning easier?

I am working on a project for just this, climbing trips around southeast asia that enable independence of the climber away from commercial schemes.

Your thoughts appreciated.


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