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Getting past the V5/6?
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Alexjt011


Feb 26, 2014, 1:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2013
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Getting past the V5/6?
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How did you get past V5/6 in climbing?

When did you get there since you began climbing?

Tips for others...:)?


lena_chita
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Feb 26, 2014, 4:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Re: [Alexjt011] Getting past the V5/6? [In reply to]
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Moved to technique and training by lena.

Welcome to the forum, Alex.


jb2100


Aug 19, 2014, 1:32 PM
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Re: [Alexjt011] Getting past the V5/6? [In reply to]
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I did my first V5 a little over a year after I started climbing. First V6 2 years after that, and first V7 a year after that. I don't boulder as much outside as I climb routes though. I found that it's pretty easy to climb V5's if you climb regularly (3 days a week or so) and you continue to push your limits, without having to put a lot of extra effort in. Climbing V6 is pretty much the same though you may need to actually focus on bouldering more than before. In my experience climbing V7 without doing any kind of training is hard, though certainly many people do it. Eventually you'll reach a point where you're pushing yourself in the gym trying to get stronger, without specifically training and you just aren't climbing any harder. This number is going to be different for everyone. For me it was around V6/7, for Sharma it was V15/5.15b. At that point you will probably need to start training to get stronger.

I've been climbing for about 5 years, and in the last 3 months I've started training I've seen my bouldering ability go up from flashing 4's and 5's, working 6's and some 7's, to flashing many 6's, sending 7's in 1 or 2 sessions and working 8's. However, training will put a ton of stress on your tendons, and it takes tendons 5-6 years to get stronger, so you really shouldn't do any fingerboard type of training until you've been climbing about that long.


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