Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Dyneema purcell prusiks
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


meanandugly


Mar 3, 2014, 9:14 AM
Post #1 of 8 (1421 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Dyneema purcell prusiks
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I noticed the other day that an individual had a purcell prusik attached to their harness, it was made from a sewn dyneema sling. I asked a bunch of questions about it, but they didn't seem to have any answers. Opinions?


kennoyce


Mar 3, 2014, 11:07 AM
Post #2 of 8 (1370 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1302

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

meanandugly wrote:
I noticed the other day that an individual had a purcell prusik attached to their harness, it was made from a sewn dyneema sling. I asked a bunch of questions about it, but they didn't seem to have any answers. Opinions?

Dyneema doesn't hold friction knots well, so I would guess that they wouldn't hold their position all that well, but who knows unless you try it out. I'd be worried about shockloading the anchor if they slipped quickly though.


meanandugly


Mar 3, 2014, 11:12 AM
Post #3 of 8 (1368 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Re: [kennoyce] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yeah, just made a couple of test and it slips completely at very low loads


sbaclimber


Mar 3, 2014, 12:44 PM
Post #4 of 8 (1328 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 3066

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

meanandugly wrote:
Yeah, just made a couple of test and it slips completely at very low loads
This would probably be why it has never been recommended to make prussics (or the like) out of dyneema slings/webbing...Crazy
Hopefully you pointed whoever you ran into in the direction of nylon slings / webbing for such an application!


meanandugly


Mar 3, 2014, 12:57 PM
Post #5 of 8 (1317 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Re: [sbaclimber] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Nope, told him I though cord would be a better option for purcells


avalon420


Mar 31, 2014, 8:24 AM
Post #6 of 8 (874 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2005
Posts: 281

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ill enlighten you folks as soon as my pictures get passed;)


meanandugly


Apr 1, 2014, 9:27 AM
Post #7 of 8 (798 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Re: [avalon420] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Saw your pics, what am I suppose to be enlightened about?


majid_sabet


Apr 1, 2014, 10:05 AM
Post #8 of 8 (791 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8346

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The melting point of dyneema is lower than typical cord and the whole purpose of using purcell with cord is to protect users in case of short fall from anchor. I had seen pictures of both dyneema daisy and purcell in several fall factor test and I switched from using daisy to purcell once I saw those result.


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$238.46 (10% off)
$13.46 (10% off)
$80.06 (10% off)
$8.75 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook