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meanandugly


Mar 3, 2014, 5:14 PM
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Registered: Oct 20, 2004
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Dyneema purcell prusiks
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I noticed the other day that an individual had a purcell prusik attached to their harness, it was made from a sewn dyneema sling. I asked a bunch of questions about it, but they didn't seem to have any answers. Opinions?


kennoyce


Mar 3, 2014, 7:07 PM
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Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
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meanandugly wrote:
I noticed the other day that an individual had a purcell prusik attached to their harness, it was made from a sewn dyneema sling. I asked a bunch of questions about it, but they didn't seem to have any answers. Opinions?

Dyneema doesn't hold friction knots well, so I would guess that they wouldn't hold their position all that well, but who knows unless you try it out. I'd be worried about shockloading the anchor if they slipped quickly though.


meanandugly


Mar 3, 2014, 7:12 PM
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Re: [kennoyce] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
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Yeah, just made a couple of test and it slips completely at very low loads


sbaclimber


Mar 3, 2014, 8:44 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
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meanandugly wrote:
Yeah, just made a couple of test and it slips completely at very low loads
This would probably be why it has never been recommended to make prussics (or the like) out of dyneema slings/webbing...Crazy
Hopefully you pointed whoever you ran into in the direction of nylon slings / webbing for such an application!


meanandugly


Mar 3, 2014, 8:57 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
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Nope, told him I though cord would be a better option for purcells


avalon420


Mar 31, 2014, 3:24 PM
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Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
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Ill enlighten you folks as soon as my pictures get passed;)


meanandugly


Apr 1, 2014, 4:27 PM
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Re: [avalon420] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
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Saw your pics, what am I suppose to be enlightened about?


majid_sabet


Apr 1, 2014, 5:05 PM
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Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to]
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The melting point of dyneema is lower than typical cord and the whole purpose of using purcell with cord is to protect users in case of short fall from anchor. I had seen pictures of both dyneema daisy and purcell in several fall factor test and I switched from using daisy to purcell once I saw those result.


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