Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis:
Climber fell 12-15 meter during belay
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Gmburns2000


Mar 4, 2014, 7:41 AM
Post #26 of 30 (1124 views)
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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Re: [Appelkoos] Climber fell 12-15 meter during belay [In reply to]
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Appelkoos wrote:
@theguy, @cracklover,

guess you missed schmeh's post on the other forum:

"Ah no the belayer was not sleeping and actually slowed dyl down a lot before he hit the ground. Furthermore the rope did play a part with the accident as it does have a coating on it that redufed the friction in the system. This was just a pure and unfortunate accident...

Dyl is fine by the way, got a screw in his wrist yesterday for the fracture...his back/hips are fine and nothing is fractured...and of course some bad bruising"

That counts as new, first-hand info in my books.

I can believe that a new and slick rope can cause some difficulty, but it does not cause an accident. A good belayor will adjust accordingly.


moose_droppings


Mar 4, 2014, 9:05 AM
Post #27 of 30 (1107 views)
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Climber fell 12-15 meter during belay [In reply to]
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I'm going to credit part of the blame on the climber.

You need to know your belayer and their abilities before putting your life in their hands.


Fred20


Mar 11, 2014, 2:52 PM
Post #28 of 30 (986 views)
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Registered: Aug 28, 2012
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Re: [moose_droppings] Climber fell 12-15 meter during belay [In reply to]
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belaying a tr isn't exactly difficult (unless he was leading, which it sounded like he wasnt)...could a grigri have prevented this...probably.

belayer definitely at fault...always good to know that the person holding your life in their hands isn't a complete idiot.


rocknice2


Mar 11, 2014, 5:34 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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Re: [Fred20] Climber fell 12-15 meter during belay [In reply to]
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He was definitely leading.

http://www.climbing.co.za/.../the-quick-way-down/


billcoe_


Apr 2, 2014, 1:08 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Re: [rocknice2] Climber fell 12-15 meter during belay [In reply to]
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From the link the Deckee says:
In reply to:
"Due to a lapse in concentration, my belayer had allowed the rope to slip through his hand(s) and flow freely through the device he was using (which was an ATC). "

Easy to blame the belayer. And there is no excuse for dropping a leader (although the guy belaying Magic Ed when the boulder with the bolt in it got pulled off and knocked him out would have gotten a pass had he dropped Ed -which he didn't). That said, any climber that chooses to head out with a beginner (climbing less that 2 years) and let them belay them unsupervised without confirming beforehand that they are experts in belaying having practiced it till they can do it asleep gets a good chunk of the blame in my view.

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