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eduloni
Feb 17, 2014, 4:07 PM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2013
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hi everyone, i was checking out some climbing videos on youtube and i ran into this video of a guy climbing solo on el cap Zodiac, then i saw half a plastic bottle tied to what i think is a petzl mini traxion with what i think is the haul rope throug the hole. i don't know what is that for? can anyone tell me?
i attached a picture of the thing.
p.s: sorry for bad english
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plastic bottle.jpg
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rocknice2
Feb 17, 2014, 4:16 PM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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It's not clear in the photo but it's used to protect the knot of the haul line.
The cut bottle top slides over the knot and protects it as the knot travels up over features. A definite must have for big wall.
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socalclimber
Feb 17, 2014, 11:31 PM
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Additionally, that looks like it might be a far end hauling system.
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cobbledik
Mar 23, 2014, 6:15 PM
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Registered: Oct 21, 2006
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socalclimber wrote: Additionally, that looks like it might be a far end hauling system.
It's not a Far-end hauling system... yet. Lots of solo climbers (doesn't really apply to partners), myself included, will attach the haul bag to the haul line via a minitrax (usually backed up with a knot right before it leaves the belay) This has two benefits.
Most beneficial: it's very easy to pull in extra haul line slack before you release the bags (since there's no partner up top to take in more slack) and you get less of a drop when you release the bag from the anchor via the tether.
Just as beneficial but comes up less: IF you need a far-end haul (which happens when you're soloing and the bag gets stuck causing you to need to rap down to the bag to release it. Not wanting to jug back to the anchor just to have the bags get stuck again, the far-end haul allows you to lift the bag along the haul line until it's out of the stuck-zone) then it's easy to attach the remainder of the system (progress capture pulley or ascender w/pulley) to the rope without needing to deal with creating a whole new attachment system for the low pulley.
Hudon talks about it here:
http://hudonpanos.com/...-things-Haul-Bag.pdf(last page and second to last page)
(This post was edited by cobbledik on Mar 23, 2014, 6:15 PM)
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Mark_Hudon
Nov 10, 2014, 12:39 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2010
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In all my big walls and hauling packs up long routes, I have never core shot a rope.
Also, if you are using a Mini or Mirco-Trax to attach your bags to the rope (along with a swivel below it), the Trax will automatically roll out of the way and the rope will flow freely over any edge.
(This post was edited by Mark_Hudon on Nov 10, 2014, 2:45 AM)
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