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Desperately seeking advice, anyone been in this situation before?
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Poll: Desperately seeking advice, anyone been in this situation before?
m8 2 / 7%
It's okay, I have one too 4 / 14%
Sungam are dead on the inside 10 / 36%
It's not too late 4 / 14%
Pancakes 8 / 29%
28 total votes
 

sungam


Mar 24, 2014, 7:35 AM
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Desperately seeking advice, anyone been in this situation before?
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Hi guys,
I really need your help now more then ever. I find myself in a really confusing and difficult time for my climbing.

It was going well until I dislocated my thumb last year doing some super sicky gnar tricks on my Balance Community® Rageline® slackline.

After an extended period of forced rest and EXTREME Eve Online playing, I started training again. It was just indoors, but I started doing okay again, and decided it was time to do some proper climbing and decided to nip outside at the first good weather. I was kinda still a bit Mnnuehhh about doing anything too big so we just went down the road to a nearby sports crag to clip bolts. It was really good fun, actually. We went back a few more times and had a lot of fun working the routes and stuff.

Then I realized some of my draws were getting kinda old, and others were awkward to use for sport (extendo's) so I bought some new dogbones that I saw on sale.

We went back and I tried a route I hadn't done yet, it was sick hard (like medium to high french 7a sports grading) so obviously I had some issues because I was tired that day and hadn't pooped so I was heavy.

I ended up having to bail and used the texas rope trick® to get my draws back down, but it was an annoying hassle. I also kept falling blowing a clip that I felt like if I didn't have to clip it I could blow past without issue. It was too close to the ground to do that, though. I really wanted to work the rest of the route but I couldn't, so we did something else.

When I got home I was annoyed I couldn't try the rest of the route so I...aheh, I ordered... A stick clip.

Now obviously I'm pretty worried about this. It's staring at me from behind my road bike right now, and I can practically HEAR it whispering "sport climbing is neither" over and over. I had to move it so I couldn't see it when I was in bed.

I really don't know what to do, am I too far gone? Am I lost the adventure spirit? Am I died inside and no longer the true free mescaline eating spirit that ACETO raised from the cradle of my deskchair? What doing?

Please vote, friends, and advise.


Edit: "Slackling" corrected to "Slackline" in the second sentence.


(This post was edited by sungam on Mar 24, 2014, 7:36 AM)


csproul


Mar 24, 2014, 7:38 AM
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We all know this is a lie. You don't own a road bike.


Kartessa


Mar 24, 2014, 7:40 AM
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How big a stick you got? I recommend at least 18ft.
Safety First.


sungam


Mar 24, 2014, 7:42 AM
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csproul wrote:
We all know this is a lie. You don't own a road bike.

Yabich, don't pretend you know everything about me,



Gmburns2000


Mar 24, 2014, 8:18 AM
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sungam wrote:
csproul wrote:
We all know this is a lie. You don't own a road bike.

Yabich, don't pretend you know everything about me,

No proof either of those bikes is yours. You're not in the pic either.

In reply to:

Two people in the pic, one bike + 1 person taking the pic. The odds are against you.


Gmburns2000


Mar 24, 2014, 8:19 AM
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that and everyone knows that stick clips are best for hanging curtains at home. either that or something for the dog to chew on while you're six pitches up.


Partner cracklover


Mar 24, 2014, 3:10 PM
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Buying a pocket protector doesn't make you a real nerd.

As any real sport weenie could tell you, sport climbing doesn't actually start until 5.12 (7a+ or 7b at least). And since you couldn't actually get to the top of a 7a, you're not really a sport climber. The stick clip and sport draws just make you a wannabee sport climber. How sad is that!

Now if you said you had started rap-bolting, you would have been accepted to the dark side.

GO


potreroed


Mar 24, 2014, 7:51 PM
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It's not too late... Return the stick clip and spend the $ on a bottle of single malt If you can't get your $ back sell it to some other weenie.


iknowfear


Mar 25, 2014, 1:48 AM
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Hey, gear is gear... and gear is good.

you could try to use it to pre-place a cam. that would be fun.

or go all the way and use it as a go-pro mount to film your sick gnar adventures on sport climbs.

cheers,


socalclimber


Mar 25, 2014, 7:37 PM
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Buy a pad and stick to bouldering in the gym.


rsmillbern


Mar 26, 2014, 4:23 AM
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Magnus... hmmm....

Come on over and we can work on this issue, just leave the stick clip at home...


climbingtrash


Mar 26, 2014, 2:29 PM
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sungam wrote:
Hi guys,
I really need your help now more then ever. I find myself in a really confusing and difficult time for my climbing.

It was going well until I dislocated my thumb last year doing some super sicky gnar tricks on my Balance Community® Rageline® slackline.

After an extended period of forced rest and EXTREME Eve Online playing, I started training again. It was just indoors, but I started doing okay again, and decided it was time to do some proper climbing and decided to nip outside at the first good weather. I was kinda still a bit Mnnuehhh about doing anything too big so we just went down the road to a nearby sports crag to clip bolts. It was really good fun, actually. We went back a few more times and had a lot of fun working the routes and stuff.

Then I realized some of my draws were getting kinda old, and others were awkward to use for sport (extendo's) so I bought some new dogbones that I saw on sale.

We went back and I tried a route I hadn't done yet, it was sick hard (like medium to high french 7a sports grading) so obviously I had some issues because I was tired that day and hadn't pooped so I was heavy.

I ended up having to bail and used the texas rope trick® to get my draws back down, but it was an annoying hassle. I also kept falling blowing a clip that I felt like if I didn't have to clip it I could blow past without issue. It was too close to the ground to do that, though. I really wanted to work the rest of the route but I couldn't, so we did something else.

When I got home I was annoyed I couldn't try the rest of the route so I...aheh, I ordered... A stick clip.

Now obviously I'm pretty worried about this. It's staring at me from behind my road bike right now, and I can practically HEAR it whispering "sport climbing is neither" over and over. I had to move it so I couldn't see it when I was in bed.

I really don't know what to do, am I too far gone? Am I lost the adventure spirit? Am I died inside and no longer the true free mescaline eating spirit that ACETO raised from the cradle of my deskchair? What doing?

Please vote, friends, and advise.


Edit: "Slackling" corrected to "Slackline" in the second sentence.

10 replies and not a single one of ya's has quoted teh OP. Stick clipping is aid and we awl know that in aid anything goes. I've solo stick clipped up some of the sickest One Three A's around!


USnavy


Mar 29, 2014, 11:11 PM
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In other words, you sat on your ass Bitcoin mining and playing Starcraft and as a result you got fat and cant climb now? I recommend:



(both the girl and the CrossFit)


AO8


Mar 30, 2014, 7:36 PM
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You'll notice many of the people on this site like to badger other climbers like yourself, contrary to what climbing is really all about. Chances are you're still a better climber than half these assholes.

Notice some of them causing trouble have thousands and thousands of posts and are badgering you for playing video games... That being said, these people are on their computers more often then out climbing/adventuring.

Don't listen to them. Injuries suck and karma is a bitch.

I've had a REALLY serious knee injury about three years ago and though it was rough, I bounced back. And it took time to mentally get over having taken such a huge fall and so recuperating was as much mental as physical.

That being said, stick clipping isn't ethically wrong because its categorized as "AIDE CLIMBING," as some others have mentioned. Just don't tell your friends you sent hard on 14d while on lead, don't break out the wire brush to brush holds, and don't be an asshole like the rest of these douche bags on here who sit on their computers all day and night shit talking. These things are unethical to climbing.

And whoever the fuck said sport climbing doesn't start until 12+ is a total idiot, period. Seriously, good luck with recovery.

I recommend having a climbing support group that will keep you motivated to get outside and keep training to get back to where you were. It took me over a year and I'm finally climbing well again. Cheers! Good luck.


csproul


Mar 30, 2014, 7:58 PM
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AO8 wrote:
You'll notice many of the people on this site like to badger other climbers like yourself, contrary to what climbing is really all about. Chances are you're still a better climber than half these assholes.

Notice some of them causing trouble have thousands and thousands of posts and are badgering you for playing video games... That being said, these people are on their computers more often then out climbing/adventuring.

Don't listen to them. Injuries suck and karma is a bitch.

I've had a REALLY serious knee injury about three years ago and though it was rough, I bounced back. And it took time to mentally get over having taken such a huge fall and so recuperating was as much mental as physical.

That being said, stick clipping isn't ethically wrong because its categorized as "AIDE CLIMBING," as some others have mentioned. Just don't tell your friends you sent hard on 14d while on lead, don't break out the wire brush to brush holds, and don't be an asshole like the rest of these douche bags on here who sit on their computers all day and night shit talking. These things are unethical to climbing.

And whoever the fuck said sport climbing doesn't start until 12+ is a total idiot, period. Seriously, good luck with recovery.

I recommend having a climbing support group that will keep you motivated to get outside and keep training to get back to where you were. It took me over a year and I'm finally climbing well again. Cheers! Good luck.
You're new around here aren't you?


climbingtrash


Mar 30, 2014, 9:32 PM
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AO8 wrote:
You'll notice many of the people on this site like to badger other climbers like yourself, contrary to what climbing is really all about. Chances are you're still a better climber than half these assholes.

Notice some of them causing trouble have thousands and thousands of posts and are badgering you for playing video games... That being said, these people are on their computers more often then out climbing/adventuring.

Don't listen to them. Injuries suck and karma is a bitch.

I've had a REALLY serious knee injury about three years ago and though it was rough, I bounced back. And it took time to mentally get over having taken such a huge fall and so recuperating was as much mental as physical.

That being said, stick clipping isn't ethically wrong because its categorized as "AIDE CLIMBING," as some others have mentioned. Just don't tell your friends you sent hard on 14d while on lead, don't break out the wire brush to brush holds, and don't be an asshole like the rest of these douche bags on here who sit on their computers all day and night shit talking. These things are unethical to climbing.

And whoever the fuck said sport climbing doesn't start until 12+ is a total idiot, period. Seriously, good luck with recovery.

I recommend having a climbing support group that will keep you motivated to get outside and keep training to get back to where you were. It took me over a year and I'm finally climbing well again. Cheers! Good luck.

Ha! Good stuff. Eye of teh tiger Manguts! Ewe kan do it!!1


jeb013


Mar 31, 2014, 8:39 AM
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AO8 wrote:
You'll notice many of the people on this site like to badger other climbers like yourself, contrary to what climbing is really all about. Chances are you're still a better climber than half these assholes.

Notice some of them causing trouble have thousands and thousands of posts and are badgering you for playing video games... That being said, these people are on their computers more often then out climbing/adventuring.

.

In all fairness, you may notice that the OP has almost douple the post count of any other person posting on this thread.

jeb


sungam


Apr 1, 2014, 10:16 AM
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He's still the only one encouraging me in my quest for recovery.

Bunch of barbarians around here, man.

You'll all be pleased* to know I went back down to the sport crag and stick clipped the SHIT out of everything. Stick clipped my way up a .12a that will likely go within the month at the rate I'm recovering so I will be a REAL SPORT CLIMBER.

Unfortunately the runout to the chains is scarey and the move to the chain clipping jug is really dynamic, hard, and low percentage. :welp:


dr_feelgood


Apr 1, 2014, 12:36 PM
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sungam wrote:
He's still the only one encouraging me in my quest for recovery.

Bunch of barbarians around here, man.

You'll all be pleased* to know I went back down to the sport crag and stick clipped the SHIT out of everything. Stick clipped my way up a .12a that will likely go within the month at the rate I'm recovering so I will be a REAL SPORT CLIMBER.

Unfortunately the runout to the chains is scarey and the move to the chain clipping jug is really dynamic, hard, and low percentage. :welp:
It isn't a runout if you stick clip it! Don't be Skerrd, yer on toprope!


climbingtrash


Apr 1, 2014, 5:51 PM
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sungam wrote:
He's still the only one encouraging me cupping by bawls in my quest for recovery.

Bunch of barbarians around here, man.

You'll all be pleased* to know I went back down to the sport crag and stick clipped the SHIT out of everything. Stick clipped my way up a .12a that will likely go within the month at the rate I'm recovering so I will be a REAL SPORT CLIMBER.

Unfortunately the runout to the chains is scarey and the move to the chain clipping jug is really dynamic, hard, and low percentage. :welp:

Fixd! Now harden teh fuck up!


iknowfear


Apr 2, 2014, 6:10 AM
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climbingtrash wrote:
sungam wrote:
He's still the only one encouraging me cupping by bawls in my quest for recovery.

Bunch of barbarians around here, man.

You'll all be pleased* to know I went back down to the sport crag and stick clipped the SHIT out of everything. Stick clipped my way up a .12a that will likely go within the month at the rate I'm recovering so I will be a REAL SPORT CLIMBER.

Unfortunately the runout to the chains is scarey and the move to the chain clipping jug is really dynamic, hard, and low percentage. :welp:

Fixd! Now harden teh fuck up!

Now harden teh fuck up


sungam


Apr 2, 2014, 6:47 AM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
sungam wrote:
He's still the only one encouraging me in my quest for recovery.

Bunch of barbarians around here, man.

You'll all be pleased* to know I went back down to the sport crag and stick clipped the SHIT out of everything. Stick clipped my way up a .12a that will likely go within the month at the rate I'm recovering so I will be a REAL SPORT CLIMBER.

Unfortunately the runout to the chains is scarey and the move to the chain clipping jug is really dynamic, hard, and low percentage. :welp:
It isn't a runout if you stick clip it! Don't be Skerrd, yer on toprope!
A good point, but I honestly don't know if I can make all the moves with the stick hanging on my harness, and you don't score any red-points in your scorecard if you hang on the bolts.


donald949


Apr 2, 2014, 10:21 PM
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sungam wrote:
Hi guys,
I really need your help now more then ever. I find myself in a really confusing and difficult time for my climbing.

It was going well until I dislocated my thumb last year doing some super sicky gnar tricks on my Balance Community® Rageline® slackline.

After an extended period of forced rest and EXTREME Eve Online playing, I started training again. It was just indoors, but I started doing okay again, and decided it was time to do some proper climbing and decided to nip outside at the first good weather. I was kinda still a bit Mnnuehhh about doing anything too big so we just went down the road to a nearby sports crag to clip bolts. It was really good fun, actually. We went back a few more times and had a lot of fun working the routes and stuff.

Then I realized some of my draws were getting kinda old, and others were awkward to use for sport (extendo's) so I bought some new dogbones that I saw on sale.

We went back and I tried a route I hadn't done yet, it was sick hard (like medium to high french 7a sports grading) so obviously I had some issues because I was tired that day and hadn't pooped so I was heavy.

I ended up having to bail and used the texas rope trick® to get my draws back down, but it was an annoying hassle. I also kept falling blowing a clip that I felt like if I didn't have to clip it I could blow past without issue. It was too close to the ground to do that, though. I really wanted to work the rest of the route but I couldn't, so we did something else.

When I got home I was annoyed I couldn't try the rest of the route so I...aheh, I ordered... A stick clip.

Now obviously I'm pretty worried about this. It's staring at me from behind my road bike right now, and I can practically HEAR it whispering "sport climbing is neither" over and over. I had to move it so I couldn't see it when I was in bed.

I really don't know what to do, am I too far gone? Am I lost the adventure spirit? Am I died inside and no longer the true free mescaline eating spirit that ACETO raised from the cradle of my deskchair? What doing?

Please vote, friends, and advise.


Edit: "Slackling" corrected to "Slackline" in the second sentence.
This is so my future.
Who makes an extending stick? and 18 foot long. That can be hung off my harness.


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