Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Dyneema purcell prusiks

Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Dyneema purcell prusiks

RSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

meanandugly

Mar 3, 2014, 9:14 AM
Post #1 of 8 (3533 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Dyneema purcell prusiks Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I noticed the other day that an individual had a purcell prusik attached to their harness, it was made from a sewn dyneema sling. I asked a bunch of questions about it, but they didn't seem to have any answers. Opinions?

kennoyce

Mar 3, 2014, 11:07 AM
Post #2 of 8 (3482 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

meanandugly wrote:

Dyneema doesn't hold friction knots well, so I would guess that they wouldn't hold their position all that well, but who knows unless you try it out. I'd be worried about shockloading the anchor if they slipped quickly though.

meanandugly

Mar 3, 2014, 11:12 AM
Post #3 of 8 (3480 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Re: [kennoyce] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Yeah, just made a couple of test and it slips completely at very low loads

sbaclimber

Mar 3, 2014, 12:44 PM
Post #4 of 8 (3440 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 3118

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

meanandugly wrote:

Yeah, just made a couple of test and it slips completely at very low loads

This would probably be why it has never been recommended to make prussics (or the like) out of dyneema slings/webbing... Crazy

Hopefully you pointed whoever you ran into in the direction of nylon slings / webbing for such an application!

meanandugly

Mar 3, 2014, 12:57 PM
Post #5 of 8 (3429 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Re: [sbaclimber] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (1 rating)	Can't Post

Nope, told him I though cord would be a better option for purcells

avalon420

Mar 31, 2014, 8:24 AM
Post #6 of 8 (2986 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2005
Posts: 281

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Ill enlighten you folks as soon as my pictures get passed;)

meanandugly

Apr 1, 2014, 9:27 AM
Post #7 of 8 (2910 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 20, 2004
Posts: 312

Re: [avalon420] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Saw your pics, what am I suppose to be enlightened about?

majid_sabet

Apr 1, 2014, 10:05 AM
Post #8 of 8 (2903 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [meanandugly] Dyneema purcell prusiks [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

The melting point of dyneema is lower than typical cord and the whole purpose of using purcell with cord is to protect users in case of short fall from anchor. I had seen pictures of both dyneema daisy and purcell in several fall factor test and I switched from using daisy to purcell once I saw those result.