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Nut size suggestions
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ricotomo


Apr 1, 2014, 4:36 PM
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Registered: Jan 15, 2009
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Nut size suggestions  (North_America: United_States: New_York: Adirondack_park)
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Hi guys. I'm going to be in the Adirondacks for the first time in a few weeks with a couple friends. We will be sticking to the Keene valley area and plan to do a lot of easy (under 5.7) long routes, like on the chapel pond slab. I don't do alot of trad climbing and wanted to make a few additions to my rack. I have one 1-12 set of nuts. What are the most common crack sizes? If I have a few bucks to add a few what sizes would you folks recommend? while I'm here does anyone route suggestions?

tl;dr what size nuts should I buy to climb in the Dacks?


sbaclimber


Apr 2, 2014, 12:40 AM
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Re: [ricotomo] Nut size suggestions [In reply to]
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Do you have anything to supplement nut sizes 11+? (e.g. cams or hexes)
I climbed easy routes in the 'dacks for a number of years with only 2 full sets of DB wires. Based on my experience, and the routes I climbed, I think you will for the most part find doubles in the mid (6-10) range the most useful.
What crack size is the most common is hard to say, but a lot of the easier slab routes have finger sized cracks and constrictions.
For the wider stuff (e.g. chimneys) you are going to be wanting cams / hexes anyway.
As far as route suggestions...Chapel Pond Slab is definitely the best place in Keene for long easy routes. I always wanted to do the Wiessner Route on Washbowl, but never got around to it. Is supposed to be good though.
If you want to do some shorter stuff (i.e. if the weather isn't looking too stable) the Creature and Beer Walls are both close by with lots of easy stuff that can be protected with nuts.


rocknice2


Apr 2, 2014, 4:55 AM
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Re: [ricotomo] Nut size suggestions [In reply to]
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Well it's impossible to tell what size nuts you have. The numbers don't correspond to any standard size, each company is different.
I'll assume you have a full set of nuts rated for free climbing [>6kn].

The easy multi pitch slab routes just don't take much gear at all.
Chapel Pond Slab and Poko Slab are amazing but runout. Micro cams help but creative nut placements work too.

The easy single pitch cracks are mostly in the finger to hand size.

Recommended rack for beginner at the Dacks:
Full set of nuts and cams from BDc4 .4 to 3, the 4 is useful in some 5.8 cracks.
Double up the nuts with DMM Alloy Offsets and cams in .75 - 2 range


ricotomo


Apr 2, 2014, 5:19 PM
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Re: [rocknice2] Nut size suggestions [In reply to]
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rocknice2 wrote:
Well it's impossible to tell what size nuts you have. The numbers don't correspond to any standard size, each company is different.
I did not know that.

I also wanted to ask you guys if you guys also have a free camping recommendation? don Mellors guide has one spot marked in a pullout by the pond but its right by the highway...


dagibbs


Apr 3, 2014, 8:54 AM
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Re: [ricotomo] Nut size suggestions [In reply to]
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ricotomo wrote:
Hi guys. I'm going to be in the Adirondacks for the first time in a few weeks with a couple friends. We will be sticking to the Keene valley area and plan to do a lot of easy (under 5.7) long routes, like on the chapel pond slab. I don't do alot of trad climbing and wanted to make a few additions to my rack. I have one 1-12 set of nuts. What are the most common crack sizes? If I have a few bucks to add a few what sizes would you folks recommend? while I'm here does anyone route suggestions?

tl;dr what size nuts should I buy to climb in the Dacks?

If you don't already have a set of cams to supplement the nuts, I would suggest thinking about supplementing with tri-cams rather than another set of nuts. Definitely pink & red, probably black & brown as well.


dagibbs


Apr 3, 2014, 8:56 AM
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Re: [ricotomo] Nut size suggestions [In reply to]
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ricotomo wrote:
rocknice2 wrote:
Well it's impossible to tell what size nuts you have. The numbers don't correspond to any standard size, each company is different.
I did not know that.

I also wanted to ask you guys if you guys also have a free camping recommendation? don Mellors guide has one spot marked in a pullout by the pond but its right by the highway...

Adirondack state park allows free wild camping most anywhere in the park. You should check the details of the rules, but it is something like at least 100 feet from any road or water source (and, possibly, established trail), and not above some altitude (maybe 4000 feet).


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