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caughtinside
Apr 11, 2014, 5:56 PM
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good stuff snupe. I saw a fb pic of some point of the asiant on some overhanging gramps stuff, looked rad.
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camhead
Apr 11, 2014, 6:43 PM
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caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: [climbing tawk]Also[/climbing tawk], did not train as much this winter as I did when I had access to the gym, but am really psyched on still doing the obscure tard lines. Went out yesterday with Wagner (anti-semite!) on the headphone, and TR-soloed a REALLY cool line that I may put a bit more work into. If ya'll know the NRG, it's the blank orange face that is climber's left and facing the Honeymooner ladders; one corner/arete system right of Quinsana Durp. Mikey headpointed it as a 13a tard line last fall; it's really cool crimpy reachy climbing, crux is a rightward dyno from one crimp to another, protected by equalized ballnuts, thena big rest jug, then TONS of runout OneTwo to the top. Big fall potential, but no decking chances I don't think. Gonna TR it quite a bit more, and it needs some winter munge scrubbed off it, but I'm pretty psyched, especially since I'm a kinda facetard gumby still. With all of NRG at your disposal, your choice of line to work on is rather strange. But well, what else is new? I read about it on mikey's blog and it sounded cool. I tend to like routes that are dirty/new/out of the way/old/forgotten though.
Well, I'm glad that at least one gerk is supportive of my hopes and dreams!
And yeah, next time I trolo the rig I'm gonna pad the edges with an old pad.
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granite_grrl
Apr 11, 2014, 6:44 PM
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I saw that too. I wonder if that dude kept climbing. Camhed, you said you actually saw him out climbing once?
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snoopy138
Apr 11, 2014, 8:53 PM
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Australia report! Well, the start of the Australia report; I'll probably just occasionally add days as I have time. Flew out on a Friday night (myself, teh gf, 2xAgent, and LLL), got into Sydney on Sunday morning. Got our bags, did the customs/immigration bit. Discovered the Sydney->Hobart flight was not actually Qantas, but Jetstar instead, and had to pay $5.50/person to take the bus from the international terminal to the domestic terminal. Jetstar is somewhere between Spirit and Southwest for Australia. They noted that we could use the bathrooms free of charge. Got into Hobart, picked up the klown kar, and drove back to teh Brit's place (with some of our baggage in the Brit's car) on the RONG side of the road. Many accidental windshield wipings ensued. Six of us staying at teh brit's place for the weke (brit + wife, myself + gf, 2x, LLL). Wandered around Hobart, ate some seafood. Next day we did some climbing at Mt. Wellington. Went to the Flange Buttress (not named after jak's bro The Flange, so far as I know). Warmed up on Neon God, pretty cool sport route. Crux was very thin move early on, after that it was all pretty reasonable mid-10 climbing, with the bolts getting more spaced towards the top. Then did Digitalis, a mostly carck-ish route with a thin traverse at the top out of the corner. Had to wait around on the P1 belay ledge for a bit because teh brit took forever to commit to the traverse (he and LLL had started up while we did Neon God). Followed that, then tried After Midnight. Onsighted the first half, but ran into some trouble at teh crux, with hard moves I couldn't figure out while potentially looking at a ledge fall. It was about time to get going anyway, so I tension traversed over to the anchors atop P1 of Pleasant Screams (described in the guide as "Tasmania's To Bolt or Not to Be"). Didn't have time to TR Pleasant Screams, but teh 2x cleaned up After Midnight. Headed back down, ate and drank. Teh GF was hanging out with teh Brit's wife during this time, checking out the Huon Valley, going to various sheep cheeseries and honey stores and what have you (apparently Tasmanian Leatherwood Honey is well known -- it turned out to be pretty tasty). The basalt columns look pretty cool! I wasn't following earlier, are you staying in the same place for the entire trip, or are you going to try to visit several locations? Oh, and sheep cheeseries make me drool and swoon. Sheep's milk feta is TEH BEST!!! I remember one of our local stored here was doing a cheese tasting and they had this Australian feta that was something ridiculous like $10 for couple oz container. But OMG, was it good! Ohh, it was!
preview: 1 week in Tasmania (only a couple climbing days there, as there was more tourism involved), then 1 week in Arapiles (located in Grain Fields, Victoria)
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snoopy138
Apr 11, 2014, 8:54 PM
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: Second day solo Truh Ruhing the proj. Figured out the gear, I still need to get a blue slider nut, though. Did a lot of brushing and scrubbing, too. Rapped to the ground after tons of messing with moves and gear, and then managed to get the tredpoint. This kind of scares me, though, because now it means I have to do the route. The crux is still going to be hard, bad lockoff on a tiny crimp with no feet, and you have to slam in a red slider, THEN do a v7 dyno to another tiny crimp. Both of my hands have bleeding fingers right now. Got to the top after the tredpoint, and found that I had totally core-shot my rope over a sharp edge. Not a big deal, it was an old rope, and none of the core strands broke, but was still a bit sketchy. I take it as the climbing gawds telling me to just sack up and lead the thing. That's gonna be scary. I have my doubts about your correct interpretation of the climbing god's messages. But it's your neck, and your lispaul.
Falls seem likely to either be safe, or affecting far more than just the lispaul.
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snoopy138
Apr 11, 2014, 8:57 PM
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caughtinside wrote: good stuff snupe. I saw a fb pic of some point of the asiant on some overhanging gramps stuff, looked rad.
yeah, that shit was way cool. hard to tell from the pics, but it gets to basically horizontal before you pull over the lip of the cave. rrg style climbing on calico basin-looking rock. second to last day of the trip, so it'll be a while before I get to it in the writeup.
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camhead
Apr 11, 2014, 10:29 PM
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caughtinside wrote: lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: [climbing tawk]Also[/climbing tawk], did not train as much this winter as I did when I had access to the gym, but am really psyched on still doing the obscure tard lines. Went out yesterday with Wagner (anti-semite!) on the headphone, and TR-soloed a REALLY cool line that I may put a bit more work into. If ya'll know the NRG, it's the blank orange face that is climber's left and facing the Honeymooner ladders; one corner/arete system right of Quinsana Durp. Mikey headpointed it as a 13a tard line last fall; it's really cool crimpy reachy climbing, crux is a rightward dyno from one crimp to another, protected by equalized ballnuts, thena big rest jug, then TONS of runout OneTwo to the top. Big fall potential, but no decking chances I don't think. Gonna TR it quite a bit more, and it needs some winter munge scrubbed off it, but I'm pretty psyched, especially since I'm a kinda facetard gumby still. With all of NRG at your disposal, your choice of line to work on is rather strange. But well, what else is new? I read about it on mikey's blog and it sounded cool. I tend to like routes that are dirty/new/out of the way/old/forgotten though.
Oh, and See Eye (or anyone else), did you read MIkey's latest post about a new first ascent he did? Fricking hilarious shit-talking in it.
http://mikesironcladbeta.blogspot.com/.../04/prohibition.html
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snoopy138
Apr 11, 2014, 11:56 PM
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Continuing the Australia report:
Tuesday, non-climbing: went to an animal sanctuary in the morning/early afternoon: hung out with the wallabys/roos, saw various other native animals (wombats, devils).
Wombats seem to be the smart ones from the marsupials. They make good pets and are super friendly up until age 2-3, at which point they'll turn on their mother (or human companion) overnight and drive them out of their burrow system. basically, full-blown dickhead teenagers. the guy there told us about a wombat returning from 10-20 km away to try to drive its human owner out of their home.
tasmanian devils communicate by screaming like the most obnoxious petulant 5-year old imaginable. got a video of this, will post it up somewhere at some point. it's hysterical. need to figure out how to cut it down and make the sound my ringtone.
also went to a couple wineries and the historical town of richmond. apparently "jail" used to be spelled "gaol", which seems really fucking weird.
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Allfred
Apr 12, 2014, 1:40 AM
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Biner check your fasespace messages.
Hey everybody!
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Allfred
Apr 12, 2014, 1:51 AM
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meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: ugh. Got on a rope at the gym last night... first time in 3 weeks. No endurance!! I may need to get rededicated here, but all my partners are leaving town to go climbing for the next month. No Bueno. Apparetnly I have almost a year of GU to lap up that is what happens when you disappear for a year. fuck you snoppy
I know how bomz feels...
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caughtinside
Apr 12, 2014, 2:03 AM
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Yeah I saw the Prohibition blog, super funny!
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lena_chita
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Apr 14, 2014, 12:49 AM
Post #102364 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: Continuing the Australia report: Tuesday, non-climbing: went to an animal sanctuary in the morning/early afternoon: hung out with the wallabys/roos, saw various other native animals (wombats, devils). Wombats seem to be the smart ones from the marsupials. They make good pets and are super friendly up until age 2-3, at which point they'll turn on their mother (or human companion) overnight and drive them out of their burrow system. basically, full-blown dickhead teenagers. the guy there told us about a wombat returning from 10-20 km away to try to drive its human owner out of their home. tasmanian devils communicate by screaming like the most obnoxious petulant 5-year old imaginable. got a video of this, will post it up somewhere at some point. it's hysterical. need to figure out how to cut it down and make the sound my ringtone. also went to a couple wineries and the historical town of richmond. apparently "jail" used to be spelled "gaol", which seems really fucking weird.
Ahh, you are bringing back the memories... did you take a picture of koala in your arms, and feed the roos?
Nothing-special weekend here, but it's good, after the last couple weeks. Heffe left for Egypt on Fri early morning, I drove him to the airport at ungodly hour. This is after late night Thursday, bc he bought a new car on Thursday, after totaling his old car earlier in the week. Not fun. He is complaining about his ribs hurting, but didn't go to the hospital bc the paramedic checked him on the spot. GuYS!!! No really, a flight to Egypt with painful ribs? Hopefully nothing really bad, but he promised me to go to the Dr. if the ribs are still hurting after he gets back.
His connecting flight from Philly to Doha got delayed, so they got into Qatar just in time to wave good-bye to their flight leaving from Doha to Luxor. Then they got re-routed through Cairo, got to hang out in the lounge for hours, waiting for flights, got shaken for money at the Cairo customs... I am not envying them at the moment! Even though by now they had slept at their final destination and went for an afternoon cruise on the Nile.
I went swingity-dancing on Fri night, had dinner+ board games with Ed on Sat night. All fun. Found out that Ed likely tore a meniscus in his other knee (so broken right foot and torn meniscus in the left). Dr says they will wait for a month with PT, and then do a surgery, if there is no improvement. NOT fun.
Went to the gym for a brief TR session. My finger is getting better, just really weak, and still sore on some holds. I need to start doing Manderson-style rehab on HB. And, I think I tweaked my knee doing yoga. Not as bad as last fall, but STUPID!!!!
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snoopy138
Apr 14, 2014, 3:08 AM
Post #102365 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Continuing the Australia report: Tuesday, non-climbing: went to an animal sanctuary in the morning/early afternoon: hung out with the wallabys/roos, saw various other native animals (wombats, devils). Wombats seem to be the smart ones from the marsupials. They make good pets and are super friendly up until age 2-3, at which point they'll turn on their mother (or human companion) overnight and drive them out of their burrow system. basically, full-blown dickhead teenagers. the guy there told us about a wombat returning from 10-20 km away to try to drive its human owner out of their home. tasmanian devils communicate by screaming like the most obnoxious petulant 5-year old imaginable. got a video of this, will post it up somewhere at some point. it's hysterical. need to figure out how to cut it down and make the sound my ringtone. also went to a couple wineries and the historical town of richmond. apparently "jail" used to be spelled "gaol", which seems really fucking weird. Ahh, you are bringing back the memories... did you take a picture of koala in your arms, and feed the roos?
heh, we did feed teh roos ... we also learned that koalas will typically live 15-20 years, but the ones that are passed from person to person for pictures tend to only live 3-5 years because it is apparently very stressful for them to be held by people they are unfamiliar with.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Apr 14, 2014, 3:46 PM
Post #102366 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Continuing the Australia report: Tuesday, non-climbing: went to an animal sanctuary in the morning/early afternoon: hung out with the wallabys/roos, saw various other native animals (wombats, devils). Wombats seem to be the smart ones from the marsupials. They make good pets and are super friendly up until age 2-3, at which point they'll turn on their mother (or human companion) overnight and drive them out of their burrow system. basically, full-blown dickhead teenagers. the guy there told us about a wombat returning from 10-20 km away to try to drive its human owner out of their home. tasmanian devils communicate by screaming like the most obnoxious petulant 5-year old imaginable. got a video of this, will post it up somewhere at some point. it's hysterical. need to figure out how to cut it down and make the sound my ringtone. also went to a couple wineries and the historical town of richmond. apparently "jail" used to be spelled "gaol", which seems really fucking weird. Ahh, you are bringing back the memories... did you take a picture of koala in your arms, and feed the roos? heh, we did feed teh roos ... we also learned that koalas will typically live 15-20 years, but the ones that are passed from person to person for pictures tend to only live 3-5 years because it is apparently very stressful for them to be held by people they are unfamiliar with.
Poor koalas. No wonder own very own koala is MIA.
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snoopy138
Apr 14, 2014, 8:13 PM
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Continuing ...
Wednesday we headed out to the Tasman Peninsula to climb the Moai ... drove out there, got a campsite for the night, and the six of us hiked out a bit over an hour to where the descent down to the ocean starts. Pretty nice hike, good views, saw a snake that the 2x startled, which I saw running away (presumably highly venomous, this being Australia)
It was three raps to get down to sea level, then a bit of easy scrambling over to the Moai platform. Geared up, and led up the popular, casual route (Sacred Site) ... it's listed as two pitches, but the first pitch is about 30 ft. of unprotected class 4, so I just linked it to the top (about 90 ft.). The route was awesome ... climbing was decent (not especially hard, but interesting enough), and the position kicks ass with the sea crashing into the platform below. Rapped off, while teh Brit and LLL came up the same route.
View of the Candlestick and the Lanterns (Totem Pole is to the right of the Candlestick, and too small to be seen) from the Moai platform ...
2x rapping down with LLL heading up (the best pics are from the 2x agent and LLL's cameras, neither of which are online yet) ...
Teh 2x and I decided to do Burning Spear, on the backside of the Moai. She got the first pitch, which was supposedly the same rating as Sacred Site, but was significantly harder, as well as being kind of damp (this side never really sees the sun) and sandy. I took P2, which was also a snadbag of an arete to funky corner sport-bolted pitch. It was harder than advertised, and I ended up taking a fall. Figured it out and got to the top.
Teh Brit and LLL crossed over the ocean to the mainland wall and climbed an 80 ft. handcarck over there, which we got pics of from the top of the Moai. To get to the mainland wall, you have to cross this small inlet where the waves occasionally flow into rather violently. You can get a good view of the incoming sea as you head over to the mainland wall, but it's hard to see on the way back. So as LLL is about to cross back, she goes to start across with a large wave coming in, and we have to yell at her as she jumps back to avoid getting Reardon'd. We then attempted to confuse the Brit into Reardoning himself, but to no avail.
It was three pitches out, but they added up to about 195 ft., so I grabbed an extra-large rack and a set of doubles and headed up. The third "pitch" was actually a pretty nice set of easy double handcracks (#3s on the left, #2s on the right). Brought up two followers, one of whom trailed a rope for the brit. Hiked back and arrived at camp around 8 or so.
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snoopy138
Apr 15, 2014, 4:08 PM
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some animal fotoz:
myself and gf with teh wallab33z
aggressively pestering teh 2x
wombat with sanctuary tour guide
tasmanian devil
apparently the Richmond Bridge is old and famous
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snoopy138
Apr 15, 2014, 4:11 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: some animal fotoz: myself and gf with teh wallab33z aggressively pestering teh 2x wombat with sanctuary tour guide tasmanian devil apparently the Richmond Bridge is old and famous
huh, apparently dropbox stores all images in landscape. I'm too lazy to download, re-orient, then upload.
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snoopy138
Apr 15, 2014, 4:20 PM
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heading off towards teh Moai
Fortescue Bay ... Moai is behind the bump on the left side of the entry to the Bay, Totem Pole is around to the right
Bivouac Bay ... basically a side bay off of Fortescue. There's a bunch of campsites here. Near where we came across the snake.
The Moai is down there somewhere. since teh gf didn't rap down with us, still no good pics of the climbingz.
this possum back at camp kind of had a thing for teh 2x agent
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granite_grrl
Apr 15, 2014, 4:50 PM
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Werst TR evar. Just a pile of red x's.
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granite_grrl
Apr 15, 2014, 4:51 PM
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So I think we're all set for Vegas this weekend. And considering it's snowing here again today I'm about ready for it.
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snoopy138
Apr 15, 2014, 5:37 PM
Post #102373 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: Werst TR evar. Just a pile of red x's.
hmm, I wonder if you have to have dropbawx permissions to view them. that would be annoying.
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dr_feelgood
Apr 15, 2014, 5:42 PM
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snoopy138 wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Werst TR evar. Just a pile of red x's. hmm, I wonder if you have to have dropbawx permissions to view them. that would be annoying.
A CT is a CT....
Awl I see is red Xs asswell.
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granite_grrl
Apr 15, 2014, 6:11 PM
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Won more.
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