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snoopy138


May 6, 2014, 11:47 AM
Post #102476 of 103384 (1878 views)
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
So I'm just going to leave this hanging here. Viva?

la resistance is ded, much like its founder and sole member.

This place is ded.

well, that is also true.
Blame donny.

I blame CI.

*nods hed*

It is my fault. I post less because every time I do I get unwanted voicemails in the middle of the night! Crazy

is jak stocking ewe?


snoopy138


May 6, 2014, 11:54 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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so I did the Steck-Salathe on saturday with the 2x agent's bf (she had flatly refused to climb it with him). It was unpleasant. The Narrows was probably the least fun I've ever had climbing. The only way I could get my hips/harness out at the top was to yard on a cam that had been placed in the crack outside with all of my remaining strength. Thanks to the 2 hours we spent on that pitch, we topped out just before dark. spent almost 5 hours descending, including several rappels off shitty trees/bushes whenever the downclimbing looked sketchy.

Went sports climbing at Five and Dime on Sunday for a couple hours. Bijou is a short, but pretty fun, route. Was able to TR Nickel Bag successfully on my 2nd try. Has one or two hard moves, not that great.


granite_grrl


May 6, 2014, 12:41 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
So I decided to put on a woman's sport climbing clinic with the toronto section ACC. Originally I was going to allow 8 participants and I'm making Nathan help me. After talking this weekend I decided to cap it off at 6.

Hoping to do a lot of instruction, so many people are clueless about sport climbing, they think it's just going out and clipping bolts. They don't have a sweet clue about going out an working a route or getting on something above their limit, or at least around here. Plus, I'd say that most ladies struggling in the 5.10 range have a lot of headspace issues, which is where the women's part of the clinic comes in.

So last night I get an email asking if I have any more room. A lady that I like and would love to have in the clinic wants in....and she wants 3 other people to come to. 4 more people! I don't think I can expand from 6 to 10 without a lot of loss of information, but I'd really like to let these women come. Thoughts?

No way you can manage 10 students without a second instructor. Plus it waters down the experience for the 6 who signed up first. Just tell them you'll do it again in a couple months. Or tell her its full, but you'll let her slide in solo.

Nathan is my second instructor (I won't make him wear lipstick, but he's not allowed to roll his eyes when I tell people I've broken down crying after certain falls that scared me).

I think 6 is good for the two of us to handle. 8 could have been possible, but getting to be a lot, 10 is way too many. This is the first time either of us have tried such an instructive clinic so we don't want to get in over our heads.


granite_grrl


May 12, 2014, 10:34 AM
Post #102479 of 103384 (1516 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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So I decided that I should bike to my hair appointment this Saturday.

Looking at the map it was only 33km away, should take me less than an hour and a half to get there. Of course, that didn't take into account the headwind, the construction, getting mildly lost, and my route somehow becoming 40km instead of 33km.

I show up almost an hour late, but it's a slow day for my friend Jeff so he has plenty of time of chop of my hair (Jak shitz pants with rage!) and chat with him for a while.

The ride back went a little more smoothly, with a bit of a tail wind, only jumping one fence and one construction detour. My little bike computer tells me I rode 80km there and back, but to be truthful that bike computer is a little off and it was likely close to 77km. Still! I haven't gone that far on my bike for almost 10 years (and my back didn't give out!).

Went climbing yesterday. I have no endurence. May have also been that I used up most of my reserves on the bike ride on Saturday, but I think it's mostly that it's only the 5th time I've touched rock this year.

Going to enter a 10km race (running) next Saturday. Then climbing Sunday and Monday (long weekend here in Canadia).

That is awl.


lena_chita
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May 12, 2014, 12:16 PM
Post #102480 of 103384 (1502 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
So I decided that I should bike to my hair appointment this Saturday.

Looking at the map it was only 33km away, should take me less than an hour and a half to get there. Of course, that didn't take into account the headwind, the construction, getting mildly lost, and my route somehow becoming 40km instead of 33km.

I show up almost an hour late, but it's a slow day for my friend Jeff so he has plenty of time of chop of my hair (Jak shitz pants with rage!) and chat with him for a while.

The ride back went a little more smoothly, with a bit of a tail wind, only jumping one fence and one construction detour. My little bike computer tells me I rode 80km there and back, but to be truthful that bike computer is a little off and it was likely close to 77km. Still! I haven't gone that far on my bike for almost 10 years (and my back didn't give out!).

Went climbing yesterday. I have no endurence. May have also been that I used up most of my reserves on the bike ride on Saturday, but I think it's mostly that it's only the 5th time I've touched rock this year.

Going to enter a 10km race (running) next Saturday. Then climbing Sunday and Monday (long weekend here in Canadia).

That is awl.

Nice werk! That's a serious bike ride you did for your haircut. I hope jack comes back here to shitz pantz in rage. at this point, even shitzed pantz will provide entertainment here.

Long and busy weekend here, doing mostly non-climbing things. I am halfway through the hangboard rehab, and the finger is LOADS better. Unfortunately my knee is acting up now. This is not good, and has got to stop!

We went to see Wizard of Oz on Saturday at a local theater. Heffe's friend was playing Scarecrow. Broadway show it was not, but kids enjoyed it, and a dinner at the local new gourmet pizza place beforehand was very nice, too, though I'd say it is not anywhere near Pies and Pints in quality.

Sunday was all mother-dayish. Kids made breakfast, dinner, and brownies, and even cleaned up (mostly). Heffe put up a fence around the garden. Hopefully it will keep the critters out (tall fence, but it is nearly invisible). I splurged a bit on some more perennials for the flower beds, and also lots of annuals.

OMG, the plant nursery was absolutely mobbed (it always is this time of the year!), and full of rude people (not usual, but this time it was). Picture this-- I am wearing a knee brace, and a guy rams into me with a full cart. I say 'aw' (not intentionally, it was just an automatic response). Instead of apologizing, he glares at me, for standing in his way, and then turns around to his (presumably wife) and says loud enough for me to hear, gee, some people make a big deal out of nothing.

I really wanted to turn my cart around and ram it into his shin, but I am unfortunately too civilized for that.


snoopy138


May 12, 2014, 7:53 PM
Post #102481 of 103384 (1480 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
So I decided that I should bike to my hair appointment this Saturday.

Looking at the map it was only 33km away, should take me less than an hour and a half to get there. Of course, that didn't take into account the headwind, the construction, getting mildly lost, and my route somehow becoming 40km instead of 33km.

I show up almost an hour late, but it's a slow day for my friend Jeff so he has plenty of time of chop of my hair (Jak shitz pants with rage!) and chat with him for a while.

The ride back went a little more smoothly, with a bit of a tail wind, only jumping one fence and one construction detour. My little bike computer tells me I rode 80km there and back, but to be truthful that bike computer is a little off and it was likely close to 77km. Still! I haven't gone that far on my bike for almost 10 years (and my back didn't give out!).

Went climbing yesterday. I have no endurence. May have also been that I used up most of my reserves on the bike ride on Saturday, but I think it's mostly that it's only the 5th time I've touched rock this year.

Going to enter a 10km race (running) next Saturday. Then climbing Sunday and Monday (long weekend here in Canadia).

That is awl.

sounds awfully multi-dimentional


snoopy138


May 12, 2014, 8:02 PM
Post #102482 of 103384 (1477 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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went to teh hole on zatyrday, was a pretty gud day. perfect temps. teh usual krowd was their ... mangler, nate, Big Tony, terri ... there were a couple people missing, just trying to remember who ...

got back to one hang on teh 5-finger discount, felt much stronger than right after I'd gotten back from australia. maybe I'll actually zend something there this year? hard to say.


granite_grrl


May 13, 2014, 6:28 AM
Post #102483 of 103384 (1460 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
So I decided that I should bike to my hair appointment this Saturday.

Looking at the map it was only 33km away, should take me less than an hour and a half to get there. Of course, that didn't take into account the headwind, the construction, getting mildly lost, and my route somehow becoming 40km instead of 33km.

I show up almost an hour late, but it's a slow day for my friend Jeff so he has plenty of time of chop of my hair (Jak shitz pants with rage!) and chat with him for a while.

The ride back went a little more smoothly, with a bit of a tail wind, only jumping one fence and one construction detour. My little bike computer tells me I rode 80km there and back, but to be truthful that bike computer is a little off and it was likely close to 77km. Still! I haven't gone that far on my bike for almost 10 years (and my back didn't give out!).

Went climbing yesterday. I have no endurence. May have also been that I used up most of my reserves on the bike ride on Saturday, but I think it's mostly that it's only the 5th time I've touched rock this year.

Going to enter a 10km race (running) next Saturday. Then climbing Sunday and Monday (long weekend here in Canadia).

That is awl.

sounds awfully multi-dimentional

Tru. I'm trying to cut back on that.


snoopy138


May 13, 2014, 8:54 AM
Post #102484 of 103384 (1450 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
So I decided that I should bike to my hair appointment this Saturday.

Looking at the map it was only 33km away, should take me less than an hour and a half to get there. Of course, that didn't take into account the headwind, the construction, getting mildly lost, and my route somehow becoming 40km instead of 33km.

I show up almost an hour late, but it's a slow day for my friend Jeff so he has plenty of time of chop of my hair (Jak shitz pants with rage!) and chat with him for a while.

The ride back went a little more smoothly, with a bit of a tail wind, only jumping one fence and one construction detour. My little bike computer tells me I rode 80km there and back, but to be truthful that bike computer is a little off and it was likely close to 77km. Still! I haven't gone that far on my bike for almost 10 years (and my back didn't give out!).

Went climbing yesterday. I have no endurence. May have also been that I used up most of my reserves on the bike ride on Saturday, but I think it's mostly that it's only the 5th time I've touched rock this year.

Going to enter a 10km race (running) next Saturday. Then climbing Sunday and Monday (long weekend here in Canadia).

That is awl.

sounds awfully multi-dimentional

Tru. I'm trying to cut back on that.

by entering a running race?

at least yore getting in 2 daze of climbing.


granite_grrl


May 13, 2014, 10:34 AM
Post #102485 of 103384 (1432 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
So I decided that I should bike to my hair appointment this Saturday.

Looking at the map it was only 33km away, should take me less than an hour and a half to get there. Of course, that didn't take into account the headwind, the construction, getting mildly lost, and my route somehow becoming 40km instead of 33km.

I show up almost an hour late, but it's a slow day for my friend Jeff so he has plenty of time of chop of my hair (Jak shitz pants with rage!) and chat with him for a while.

The ride back went a little more smoothly, with a bit of a tail wind, only jumping one fence and one construction detour. My little bike computer tells me I rode 80km there and back, but to be truthful that bike computer is a little off and it was likely close to 77km. Still! I haven't gone that far on my bike for almost 10 years (and my back didn't give out!).

Went climbing yesterday. I have no endurence. May have also been that I used up most of my reserves on the bike ride on Saturday, but I think it's mostly that it's only the 5th time I've touched rock this year.

Going to enter a 10km race (running) next Saturday. Then climbing Sunday and Monday (long weekend here in Canadia).

That is awl.

sounds awfully multi-dimentional

Tru. I'm trying to cut back on that.

by entering a running race?

at least yore getting in 2 daze of climbing.

Yeah, I fucked that up, didn't I.

Trying to arrange with people in the area to get out climbing after work. I feel like getting that third day in last summer really helped my climbing. Not sure easy it will be to convince people to get out though.


tripperjm


May 14, 2014, 4:28 AM
Post #102486 of 103384 (1377 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
I hope jack comes back here to shitz pantz in rage. at this point, even shitzed pantz will provide entertainment here.


I keep up.... jest nothing two say.

sides, I'm knot here to entertain ewe.

still, ewe haven't much liked what I've had two say in teh past. What makes ewe think ewe wood like what I have two say nau any better?


tripperjm


May 14, 2014, 4:36 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
went to teh hole on zatyrday, was a pretty gud day. perfect temps. teh usual krowd was their ... mangler, nate, Big Tony, terri ... there were a couple people missing, just trying to remember who ...

got back to one hang on teh 5-finger discount, felt much stronger than right after I'd gotten back from australia. maybe I'll actually zend something there this year? hard to say.

Glad to here awl my friends are having fun on the fruits ov my labor... jest a shame that knot won ov ewe fuks cood cum thru for me when I needed sumwon.

mumbles under my breath.... Gawd I fuking hate bottomfeeders.


lena_chita
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May 14, 2014, 11:11 AM
Post #102488 of 103384 (1333 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
went to teh hole on zatyrday, was a pretty gud day. perfect temps. teh usual krowd was their ... mangler, nate, Big Tony, terri ... there were a couple people missing, just trying to remember who ...

got back to one hang on teh 5-finger discount, felt much stronger than right after I'd gotten back from australia. maybe I'll actually zend something there this year? hard to say.

I sent my bedroom window this morning. Piece of cake, onsight! not a very cool route though, I don't think I want to do it again, ever.


lena_chita
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May 14, 2014, 11:14 AM
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
I hope jack comes back here to shitz pantz in rage. at this point, even shitzed pantz will provide entertainment here.


I keep up.... jest nothing two say.

sides, I'm knot here to entertain ewe.

still, ewe haven't much liked what I've had two say in teh past. What makes ewe think ewe wood like what I have two say nau any better?

It's a mark of my insanity. I do the same thing over and over, and hope to get a different result.

And what makes you think I didn't like what you had to say, anyway? I take it as a suggestion, really.


snoopy138


May 14, 2014, 12:16 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
went to teh hole on zatyrday, was a pretty gud day. perfect temps. teh usual krowd was their ... mangler, nate, Big Tony, terri ... there were a couple people missing, just trying to remember who ...

got back to one hang on teh 5-finger discount, felt much stronger than right after I'd gotten back from australia. maybe I'll actually zend something there this year? hard to say.

I sent my bedroom window this morning. Piece of cake, onsight! not a very cool route though, I don't think I want to do it again, ever.

I hope this means you got locked out and had to climb in via your bedroom window?


lena_chita
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May 14, 2014, 12:37 PM
Post #102491 of 103384 (1309 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
went to teh hole on zatyrday, was a pretty gud day. perfect temps. teh usual krowd was their ... mangler, nate, Big Tony, terri ... there were a couple people missing, just trying to remember who ...

got back to one hang on teh 5-finger discount, felt much stronger than right after I'd gotten back from australia. maybe I'll actually zend something there this year? hard to say.

I sent my bedroom window this morning. Piece of cake, onsight! not a very cool route though, I don't think I want to do it again, ever.

I hope this means you got locked out and had to climb in via your bedroom window?

Yes, i got locked out--- out of my BEDROOM! I didn't even know that the doorknob was locked, I don't think I ever closed that door completely... Damned drafts! I had access to the rest of the house.


snoopy138


May 14, 2014, 1:42 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
went to teh hole on zatyrday, was a pretty gud day. perfect temps. teh usual krowd was their ... mangler, nate, Big Tony, terri ... there were a couple people missing, just trying to remember who ...

got back to one hang on teh 5-finger discount, felt much stronger than right after I'd gotten back from australia. maybe I'll actually zend something there this year? hard to say.

I sent my bedroom window this morning. Piece of cake, onsight! not a very cool route though, I don't think I want to do it again, ever.

I hope this means you got locked out and had to climb in via your bedroom window?

Yes, i got locked out--- out of my BEDROOM! I didn't even know that the doorknob was locked, I don't think I ever closed that door completely... Damned drafts! I had access to the rest of the house.

A good thing your window was open, then. Although I'm guessing the internal room locks are not especially hard to pick.


lena_chita
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May 14, 2014, 7:02 PM
Post #102493 of 103384 (1270 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
went to teh hole on zatyrday, was a pretty gud day. perfect temps. teh usual krowd was their ... mangler, nate, Big Tony, terri ... there were a couple people missing, just trying to remember who ...

got back to one hang on teh 5-finger discount, felt much stronger than right after I'd gotten back from australia. maybe I'll actually zend something there this year? hard to say.

I sent my bedroom window this morning. Piece of cake, onsight! not a very cool route though, I don't think I want to do it again, ever.

I hope this means you got locked out and had to climb in via your bedroom window?

Yes, i got locked out--- out of my BEDROOM! I didn't even know that the doorknob was locked, I don't think I ever closed that door completely... Damned drafts! I had access to the rest of the house.

A good thing your window was open, then. Although I'm guessing the internal room locks are not especially hard to pick.

Theoretically, yes. But all my tools were IN the bedroom, because that's where I have a walk-in closet room that seems like the best place for the tools. And all the spare random keys were there, too. The door opens to the inside of the bedroom, so the hinges were on the inside. I unsuccessfully tried picking the lock with a hairpin (it is not that easy!). And the house is old, so it isn't just a little piece of molding that you can pry off/push aside, to get to the lock (even assuming that I had something to use for prying it... the tools locked inside weren't helping!). We are talking some serious wood-ripping, to get to where you could try to pry the lock open. So a screen really was the cheapest thing to sacrifice.


lena_chita
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May 19, 2014, 8:09 AM
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Weak-end report:

Went to the Red with a friend of mine who was visiting from Spain for two weeks (job-related training in Cle). This is his 3rd time in 4 years coming here, and the 3rd time that we had climbed together. First time was the Red, two years ago was the New, now the Red again.

Met up with Banz and couple more people from WV. I am happy to say that my finger is feeling LOADS better. The hangboard rehab is really making a difference. This was the first weekend where I felt that, though still weaker than my best, my finger was not the main thing holding me back. And it is not hurting anymore, yay!

Now, if only my knee would do the same! I have resorted to climbing in a brace. Which did help quite a bit with limiting lateral movement, but also hindered things a lot. The outside hinges caught the rope, got stuck in pockets, and otherwise were a nuisance. Oh well.

The quick summary is that we went to Gallery and the Lode on Saturday, and Drive-by and Bob Marley on Sunday. The weather was absolutely picture-perfec,t couldn't have asked for better (Partly sunny, low 60s and 45% humidity!!!! at the Red!!!! in spring!!!! Unbelievable!!!!!) I bolt-to-bolted a bunch of routes and felt good about it, which is pretty pathetic.

One of the few routes that I actually sent was a new route at the Gallery Yes, we went to the right side of the Gallery briefly, because Banz wanted something his gf could climb. We got there early enough, so we beat the crowds, she got to climb the 5.8, and we left just as things were getting crowded. But while she was climbing, we got on the line to the left of A Brief History of Climb. We didn't know what it was, but it looked good, so we decided to get on it. Someone said that it was an 11d, but it felt more like 11a/b, which I later validated by finding the info online.

Guernica. Really cool. Like, surprisingly good route. I didn't think something that was bolted so late was going to be particularly cool, because all the good lines had been bolted already. But no, this is one of the better climbs that I've done. I'd do it again happily, if it weren't for the right side of the Gallery atmosphere.

Someone dropped a quickdraw, and hit someone else's belayer in the head while we were packing up to leave. No yelling rock, no saying, ugh, sorry. Instead the guy just said, "shit, I am now short a quickdraw".
Yeah, good job, asshole! Don't worry, it's not like you were sending that route or anything, you can hang on the rope one more time and your buddy will send you the quickdraw... Except you have never learned that you could go in direct, huh... Well, I am sure you guys will figure it out! At that point we beat a hasty retreat.

The rest of the Gallery was completely deserted. The Lode wasn't crowded either, and neither was Drive-by on Sunday. Bob Marley was even emptier. I think we saw two other people there, on Ultraperm, nobody in the cave but the four of us.

Funny story about Drive-by. We got there early, there was only one group there, of maybe 3-4 people, and they were, of course, on Make a Wish, which is the easiest route there, and the one that Banz wanted to put his gf on. Well, he asked politely how long it was going to be before they were done, and they told him sorry, they were going to take two tries each, and take some practice falls. UGH! Practice falls on that route?
So anyway, we put his GF on Yadda-Yadda instead, and she did seem to enjoy the bottom section. Then Banz switched out some manky draws on Kaleidoscope, gave it one real burn, and we headed to Bob Marley. Drive-by was not much busier in the afternoon as we were leaving. The practice fallers were finally gone, too... I was completely shocked to find the parking lot filled to capacity. I guess Chica Bonita was mobbed that day!


snoopy138


May 19, 2014, 9:19 AM
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lena_chita wrote:
Funny story about Drive-by. We got there early, there was only one group there, of maybe 3-4 people, and they were, of course, on Make a Wish, which is the easiest route there, and the one that Banz wanted to put his gf on. Well, he asked politely how long it was going to be before they were done, and they told him sorry, they were going to take two tries each, and take some practice falls. UGH! Practice falls on that route?
So anyway, we put his GF on Yadda-Yadda instead, and she did seem to enjoy the bottom section. Then Banz switched out some manky draws on Kaleidoscope, gave it one real burn, and we headed to Bob Marley. Drive-by was not much busier in the afternoon as we were leaving. The practice fallers were finally gone, too... I was completely shocked to find the parking lot filled to capacity. I guess Chica Bonita was mobbed that day!

Why was Banz putting his gf on Make a Wish, that thing sucks. I seem to recall the Slick and the 9mm being a significantly more enjoyable route.


lena_chita
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May 19, 2014, 11:53 AM
Post #102496 of 103384 (1145 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5705

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Funny story about Drive-by. We got there early, there was only one group there, of maybe 3-4 people, and they were, of course, on Make a Wish, which is the easiest route there, and the one that Banz wanted to put his gf on. Well, he asked politely how long it was going to be before they were done, and they told him sorry, they were going to take two tries each, and take some practice falls. UGH! Practice falls on that route?
So anyway, we put his GF on Yadda-Yadda instead, and she did seem to enjoy the bottom section. Then Banz switched out some manky draws on Kaleidoscope, gave it one real burn, and we headed to Bob Marley. Drive-by was not much busier in the afternoon as we were leaving. The practice fallers were finally gone, too... I was completely shocked to find the parking lot filled to capacity. I guess Chica Bonita was mobbed that day!

Why was Banz putting his gf on Make a Wish, that thing sucks. I seem to recall the Slick and the 9mm being a significantly more enjoyable route.

You climb at Joshua tree, your idea of "enjoyable" is kinda skewed. Tongue
Seriously though, Slick is sucky. It was definitely the "I'm happy i onsighted it, because now I don't have to do it ever again" kind of climb for me. IMO, Make a Wish is the more enjoyable of the two, though, admittedly, I would take Whipstocking over either one of them, any day.

I am guessing Banz thought that make a Wish is more straightforward than the Slick, to a new climber. I can't say I spent a lot of time thinking about it.

We ended up putting up a short little 5.9 for her later in the day, the one that is along the way on the hike from Drive-by to Bob Marley. A really crappy climb, dirty, crumbly, short and hardly ever climbed. But she got to the top and really enjoyed it. You have to remember, the new climbers don't yet know the difference between the good climb and the bad climb. They are just excited to climb anything that they feel they can climb. No matter how much rope assistance, or hanging, or whatever, the thrill in the very beginning is from the process of getting to the top.

And IMO Banz is doing a really good job of not pushing her to climb, with enough encouragement when she wants to climb, but no pressure if she doesn't, or if she wants to bail. We'll see how it plays out. Whether or not she sticks with climbing, she is really nice, I like her, and I think she is good for Banz.


snoopy138


May 19, 2014, 5:21 PM
Post #102497 of 103384 (1130 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28790

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Funny story about Drive-by. We got there early, there was only one group there, of maybe 3-4 people, and they were, of course, on Make a Wish, which is the easiest route there, and the one that Banz wanted to put his gf on. Well, he asked politely how long it was going to be before they were done, and they told him sorry, they were going to take two tries each, and take some practice falls. UGH! Practice falls on that route?
So anyway, we put his GF on Yadda-Yadda instead, and she did seem to enjoy the bottom section. Then Banz switched out some manky draws on Kaleidoscope, gave it one real burn, and we headed to Bob Marley. Drive-by was not much busier in the afternoon as we were leaving. The practice fallers were finally gone, too... I was completely shocked to find the parking lot filled to capacity. I guess Chica Bonita was mobbed that day!

Why was Banz putting his gf on Make a Wish, that thing sucks. I seem to recall the Slick and the 9mm being a significantly more enjoyable route.

You climb at Joshua tree, your idea of "enjoyable" is kinda skewed. Tongue
Seriously though, Slick is sucky. It was definitely the "I'm happy i onsighted it, because now I don't have to do it ever again" kind of climb for me. IMO, Make a Wish is the more enjoyable of the two, though, admittedly, I would take Whipstocking over either one of them, any day.

Yes, Whipstocking is better than either of them. I think GG agreed with me that Slick and the 9mm was a better rowt. Maybe it was teh 2x agent, I'm not sure.


granite_grrl


May 20, 2014, 7:21 AM
Post #102498 of 103384 (1111 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14800

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Funny story about Drive-by. We got there early, there was only one group there, of maybe 3-4 people, and they were, of course, on Make a Wish, which is the easiest route there, and the one that Banz wanted to put his gf on. Well, he asked politely how long it was going to be before they were done, and they told him sorry, they were going to take two tries each, and take some practice falls. UGH! Practice falls on that route?
So anyway, we put his GF on Yadda-Yadda instead, and she did seem to enjoy the bottom section. Then Banz switched out some manky draws on Kaleidoscope, gave it one real burn, and we headed to Bob Marley. Drive-by was not much busier in the afternoon as we were leaving. The practice fallers were finally gone, too... I was completely shocked to find the parking lot filled to capacity. I guess Chica Bonita was mobbed that day!

Why was Banz putting his gf on Make a Wish, that thing sucks. I seem to recall the Slick and the 9mm being a significantly more enjoyable route.

Agreed, Make a Wish sucks. The bottom half of Breakfast Burrito (before the alcove) is way more fun and probably about the same grade.

I do like Yadda-Yadda though, but it's one of those route that you either hit the sequence right and it's kinda fun, or you hit it wrong and it sucks.


granite_grrl


May 20, 2014, 7:27 AM
Post #102499 of 103384 (1111 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14800

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Funny story about Drive-by. We got there early, there was only one group there, of maybe 3-4 people, and they were, of course, on Make a Wish, which is the easiest route there, and the one that Banz wanted to put his gf on. Well, he asked politely how long it was going to be before they were done, and they told him sorry, they were going to take two tries each, and take some practice falls. UGH! Practice falls on that route?
So anyway, we put his GF on Yadda-Yadda instead, and she did seem to enjoy the bottom section. Then Banz switched out some manky draws on Kaleidoscope, gave it one real burn, and we headed to Bob Marley. Drive-by was not much busier in the afternoon as we were leaving. The practice fallers were finally gone, too... I was completely shocked to find the parking lot filled to capacity. I guess Chica Bonita was mobbed that day!

Why was Banz putting his gf on Make a Wish, that thing sucks. I seem to recall the Slick and the 9mm being a significantly more enjoyable route.

You climb at Joshua tree, your idea of "enjoyable" is kinda skewed. Tongue
Seriously though, Slick is sucky. It was definitely the "I'm happy i onsighted it, because now I don't have to do it ever again" kind of climb for me. IMO, Make a Wish is the more enjoyable of the two, though, admittedly, I would take Whipstocking over either one of them, any day.

Yes, Whipstocking is better than either of them. I think GG agreed with me that Slick and the 9mm was a better rowt. Maybe it was teh 2x agent, I'm not sure.

I don't know if I've ever climbed Slick. The only route at that end of the crag I can remember I've been on is Hakuna Matata, where I feel I hit every clipping stand wrong and fell at almost every bolt.


camhead


May 20, 2014, 7:55 AM
Post #102500 of 103384 (1103 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20748

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Funny story about Drive-by. We got there early, there was only one group there, of maybe 3-4 people, and they were, of course, on Make a Wish, which is the easiest route there, and the one that Banz wanted to put his gf on. Well, he asked politely how long it was going to be before they were done, and they told him sorry, they were going to take two tries each, and take some practice falls. UGH! Practice falls on that route?
So anyway, we put his GF on Yadda-Yadda instead, and she did seem to enjoy the bottom section. Then Banz switched out some manky draws on Kaleidoscope, gave it one real burn, and we headed to Bob Marley. Drive-by was not much busier in the afternoon as we were leaving. The practice fallers were finally gone, too... I was completely shocked to find the parking lot filled to capacity. I guess Chica Bonita was mobbed that day!

Why was Banz putting his gf on Make a Wish, that thing sucks. I seem to recall the Slick and the 9mm being a significantly more enjoyable route.

You climb at Joshua tree, your idea of "enjoyable" is kinda skewed. Tongue
Seriously though, Slick is sucky. It was definitely the "I'm happy i onsighted it, because now I don't have to do it ever again" kind of climb for me. IMO, Make a Wish is the more enjoyable of the two, though, admittedly, I would take Whipstocking over either one of them, any day.

Yes, Whipstocking is better than either of them. I think GG agreed with me that Slick and the 9mm was a better rowt. Maybe it was teh 2x agent, I'm not sure.

Whipstocking is better than nearly any other route in the whole RRG. That thang is awesome. Don't think I've done Slick, or 9mm, or Guernica. Hope yore knee heals up, Lena!

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