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using locking carabiners in quickdraws
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scienceguy288


May 16, 2014, 7:24 AM
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using locking carabiners in quickdraws
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I have a few extra locking bikers. I was thinking about using them in alpine draws for trad. Would they be safe to use unlocked in this fashion? I expect so, but wasn't sure...

edit: biners, not bikers; trad, not grad. Damn autocorrect.


(This post was edited by scienceguy288 on May 16, 2014, 7:26 AM)


dagibbs


May 16, 2014, 7:53 AM
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Re: [scienceguy288] using locking carabiners in quickdraws [In reply to]
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scienceguy288 wrote:
I have a few extra locking bikers. I was thinking about using them in alpine draws for trad. Would they be safe to use unlocked in this fashion? I expect so, but wasn't sure...

edit: biners, not bikers; trad, not grad. Damn autocorrect.

Safe for this use? Generally yes. Convenient? Maybe not so much.

Locking biners will be heavier than non-lockers, so are not often used for this. Also, they aren't generally designed to ease clipping in the way that biners for draws are designed -- but people used to use ovals (and still do) for this, so that's not a big issue.

The only safety issue I could see is if the spring for closing the gate wasn't as strong, and with a heavier gate due to the locking mechanism on it, they would be more inclined towards gate flutter than a regular biner. If worried about that, of course, you could lock them.

Hm... I'm assuming screw-locks here. If you're talking about some of the twist-lock auto-locking ones, then the other issue is that opening them one-handed to clip may be a bit annoying, so they'd be more awkward to use than you really want.


JimTitt


May 16, 2014, 10:30 AM
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Re: [scienceguy288] using locking carabiners in quickdraws [In reply to]
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Normally while you´re climbing the bottom one vibrates itself locked and when you want to clip......
If you insist then get used to racking upside down:-)


Partner rgold


May 16, 2014, 12:46 PM
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Re: [scienceguy288] using locking carabiners in quickdraws [In reply to]
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I know some folks who carry one, perhaps two quickdraws made up with locking biners for mission-critical placements in which an unclipping incident would be really catastrophic. But their intention is to lock both biners when they employ such a draw, the locking being the whole point.

There are now extremely light locking carabiners that make weight considerations almost moot.


dagibbs


May 16, 2014, 8:15 PM
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Re: [rgold] using locking carabiners in quickdraws [In reply to]
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rgold wrote:
I know some folks who carry one, perhaps two quickdraws made up with locking biners for mission-critical placements in which an unclipping incident would be really catastrophic. But their intention is to lock both biners when they employ such a draw, the locking being the whole point.

Yeah, I've heard those called "slow draws". :)


(This post was edited by dagibbs on May 16, 2014, 8:15 PM)


marc801


May 16, 2014, 8:55 PM
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Re: [dagibbs] using locking carabiners in quickdraws [In reply to]
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dagibbs wrote:
Yeah, I've heard those called "slow draws". :)
Believe me when you're looking at a 35' old-school 5.10 run-out on the Apron and the bolt in front of you is the only thing keeping you from hitting the ground, you're moving pretty slowly. Maybe even considering a locking biner on the bolt end as well.


majid_sabet


May 16, 2014, 11:46 PM
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Re: [scienceguy288] using locking carabiners in quickdraws [In reply to]
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I use locking biner every few clips to secure potential rope coming off


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 16, 2014, 11:47 PM)


jumpingrock


May 18, 2014, 9:09 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] using locking carabiners in quickdraws [In reply to]
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I have one draw with a lightweight locking biner, I usually use it on the first bolt where falling is possible.


maldaly


May 19, 2014, 7:02 AM
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You need to get a few Edelrid Pure Sliders. It's a lightweight offset D carabiner with a low profile slide lock. With just a little bit of practice you can get the rope in or out of a hanging draw, one handed. You can get them at Mountain GEar.

http://www.mountaingear.com/...dF1R-CRkj2-56F_D_BwE


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