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Forearm Injury
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May 22, 2014, 7:57 AM
Post #1 of 2 (2017 views)

Registered: May 18, 2014
Posts: 3

Forearm Injury
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I'll start by stating:

"I understand this is not the place to get qualified medical advice".

I'm very new to climbing, started about a month ago. I've been climbing at a gym about 3 times a week, anything between 30m to 2.5h a session.

I boulder v0-v2 and TR 5.9-10b.

About a week ago,while bouldering, I felt a pain in my left forearm. It didn't go away after a short rest so I decided to call a day. The pain is in the front of the forearm, about 2-3 inches below the elbow.

The pain lasted for several hours after the session but it was pretty clear to me that I needed to rest it.
Not wanting completely halt climbing, I figured I would rest a few days and work on stamina by focusing on TR'ing easier routes like 5.7 or 5.8, maybe do laps etc.

So, 3 days later I go to the gym, arm feels good so I decided to try a 5.9 first, see how it goes. Arm felt good so I decided to ignore my decision from earlier and just climb my usual TR level.
2.5h session went great, no pain, no discomfort, just the usual pumped feeling. I was pretty happy.

2 days later, I'm back at the gym, completely forgot about my injury and started bouldering V2 & V3's. Sure enough, after a few attempts, my arm hurts again so I quit. The pain lasted a few hours again, next morning, it's completely gone.

So, that's the story, here's my questions:

Does this injury have a name?
How long does it take to heal?
What climbing activity I can do without aggravating it? Does lapping at well under my level sound like a reasonable idea? Perhaps focus on footwork on easy slabs? Or should I take a break for a few weeks?


May 22, 2014, 11:05 AM
Post #2 of 2 (1991 views)

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087

Re: [alon.albert] Forearm Injury [In reply to]
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Obviously nobody can tell on the internet. Might be a minor strain. Might be the beginning of tendonitis due to overuse. You might be overdoing things. Going from zero climbing to 3x a week is quite a change. If the pain goes away when you slow down, take a few extra rest days, and climb easier stuff, then listen to what your body tells you. It might be minor right now, but it could become more injured or chronic, and then you WILL have to take longer time off.

It doesn't sound like you need to stop climbing completely, but maybe take 2-3 days off to rest if you climb hard one day. Cut your gym sessions shorter, if you are bouldering, and spend less time working on problems at your limit. Ice your arm after climbing. Make sure you warm up slowly when you first come into the gym, instead of jumping straight on the routes/problems at your limit. And yes, definitely spend time working on footwork and technique.

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