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Poll: coming to climb in us
sport climb 1 / 100%
sport multypitch 0 / 0%
sport sites 0 / 0%
1 total votes
 

arielgonen


May 22, 2014, 10:25 AM
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coming to climb in us
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hi,
im coming to climb in us on the 17th july till the 8th to sep.

looking for sport multypitch.
and also nice and big sport sites..

my partner and i will love to join locals,


we climb around 7a.

our plan for now is to start in colorado continue to utah than to nevada and to finish in yosemite vally.

thanks,
ariel.


kennoyce


May 22, 2014, 10:59 AM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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arielgonen wrote:
hi,
im coming to climb in us on the 17th july till the 8th to sep.

looking for sport multypitch.
and also nice and big sport sites..

my partner and i will love to join locals,


we climb around 7a.

our plan for now is to start in colorado continue to utah than to nevada and to finish in yosemite vally.

thanks,
ariel.

Unfortunately, there's not a whole lot in the way of multi-pitch sport in the US. There is some, but not much. For the time of year that you will be here you're going to want to be at higher elevation crags to stay out of the heat which generally means alpine trad climbing. If you have a list of potential places you'd like to visit it might be a good idea to post them up so that we can let you know if they will be good that time of year or not.


dagibbs


May 22, 2014, 11:02 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2007
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Re: [arielgonen] coming to climb in us [In reply to]
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arielgonen wrote:
hi,
im coming to climb in us on the 17th july till the 8th to sep.

looking for sport multypitch.
and also nice and big sport sites..

my partner and i will love to join locals,


we climb around 7a.

our plan for now is to start in colorado continue to utah than to nevada and to finish in yosemite vally.

thanks,
ariel.

French 7a converts to about 5.11+ YDS.

I don't think the US has a lot of multi-pitch sport. There are the occasional route here and there, but not large concentrations of it anywhere.

There is lots of multi-pitch trad. There is lots of single-pitch sport, often in large concentrations. There are, of course, exceptions.

At that time of year, you'll likely want to be looking at more northern, or higher altitude, destinations due to temperature. Or, at least, not sun-exposed.

There aren't a lot of people still reading & contributing on this site -- you might also try asking on mountainproject.com and/or supertopo.com.


marc801


May 22, 2014, 11:42 AM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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arielgonen wrote:
im coming to climb in us on the 17th july till the 8th to sep.

our plan for now is to start in colorado continue to utah than to nevada and to finish in yosemite vally.
How do you feel about climbing in 35C - 40C+?

Here in Utah we have visitor deaths every summer due to heat.


arielgonen


May 22, 2014, 12:18 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2014
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what do you suggest, according to the dates, and genral plan?

many thanks,
ariel


sonso45


May 22, 2014, 12:41 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2002
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If you are ultimately heading to Yosemite from Colorado you will find good climbing at various areas.

If you leave from SW Colorado, spend time near Durango. Then drive south to Winslow, AZ. Great psicobloc and sport routes in a cool canyon.

Continue west through Flagstaff, which has fine sport routes too. Go to Las Vegas for hard sport routes on Mt. Charleston (high enough to be cool weather).

Make a beeline for Bishop, CA. You have lots of sport and bouldering. From there head north to Tuolumne if it isn't too cold in Sept. Drop into Yosemite if it is.


kennoyce


May 22, 2014, 12:52 PM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2001
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arielgonen wrote:
what do you suggest, according to the dates, and genral plan?

many thanks,
ariel

I'm guessing that you're starting in the Denver area, if so, for a sport climbing trip, these would be my must hit areas:

Rifle, CO
Arches National Park, UT (not for climbing, but it's on the way)
Maple Canyon, UT
Wasatch Front, UT
Maybe City of Rocks, ID? (may be too hot, but you could chase shade)
Drive straight through Nevada
Bishop, CA
Tuolumne, CA (not much in the way of sport climbing)
Yosemite Vally, CA (again, not much sport climbing)

If you are able to do trad climbing your options would increase significantly.


marc801


May 22, 2014, 3:37 PM
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kennoyce wrote:
I'm guessing that you're starting in the Denver area, if so, for a sport climbing trip, these would be my must hit areas:

Rifle, CO
Arches National Park, UT (not for climbing, but it's on the way)
Maple Canyon, UT
Wasatch Front, UT
Maybe City of Rocks, ID? (may be too hot, but you could chase shade)
Drive straight through Nevada
Bishop, CA
Tuolumne, CA (not much in the way of sport climbing)
Yosemite Vally, CA (again, not much sport climbing)
That's as good an itinerary as any.

Just a word about the last two: just because it has bolts on it does not make it a sport route. Be extremely careful about the old-school friction slab routes. It's not at all unusual for an 11a route to have 40' runouts on 10b terrain. There's a route in Tuolumne called The Coming - short 10a crux, beautiful 5.9 second pitch with a longer more thought provoking sequence that seems harder than the 10a crux, at least mentally. Then there's the 3rd pitch - a full 50 meters of 5.7 knobs. The only protection on the pitch is a single 60 year old bolt at 25 meters.

Regarding City of Rocks - although many routes are fully bolted, the prevailing ethic in the establishment of the routes is to not place a bolt if there is trad protection available, so trad gear is highly advisable. There's an 11b (I forget the name) that is fully bolted - except for the spot where a #4 cam is the only thing keeping you from hitting the ground if you blow a 10d move.


arielgonen


May 23, 2014, 5:23 AM
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Registered: May 2, 2014
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thank you all for the sincerely answers,
i climb trad but don't have many experience in that..
aid climb is my weakest point at that moment, so thats why i try to avoid trad in general..

if you know about trad multypitch routes until 5.10c\d, that don't must aid, i'd like to ear about it.

again,
many thanks,
ariel


marc801


May 23, 2014, 7:12 AM
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arielgonen wrote:
if you know about trad multypitch routes until 5.10c\d, that don't must aid, i'd like to ear about it.
Do you really mean trad or did you mean sport multipitch? If trad, there are too many to list up to that grade - literally thousands.


dagibbs


May 23, 2014, 7:56 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2007
Posts: 880

Re: [arielgonen] coming to climb in us [In reply to]
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arielgonen wrote:
thank you all for the sincerely answers,
i climb trad but don't have many experience in that..
aid climb is my weakest point at that moment, so thats why i try to avoid trad in general..

if you know about trad multypitch routes until 5.10c\d, that don't must aid, i'd like to ear about it.

again,
many thanks,
ariel

If you are looking at trad (gear protected) but not Aid (gear to advance) climbing, especially for multi-pitch, that abounds. That basically opens up most of the US multi-pitch climbing.


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